About to buy a 01 P38 - 122K miles - too many miles?
#21
http://newyork.craigslist.org/brx/cto/2140281724.html
This one is $6K, says negotiable but I would be wary since it looks like it is on the bump stops. Now it could have just been sitting there for a while and got low but at least you can deal. It is hard finding them in the CL listings since everyone adds Range Rover to their listing to get you to look at their crap Lexus.
This one is $6K, says negotiable but I would be wary since it looks like it is on the bump stops. Now it could have just been sitting there for a while and got low but at least you can deal. It is hard finding them in the CL listings since everyone adds Range Rover to their listing to get you to look at their crap Lexus.
#22
I haven't been on this forum in awhile. You guys helped me out when I was searching for an 01-02 RR. I never did purchase one, I ended up buying a MB ML350. I absolutely love it, but I still catch myself STARING at p38s whenever (rarely) I see them, and I still want one. Never looked into the 2000 model but was this a good year? Found this ad on craigslist the price is amazing, and I'm really interested if the suspension is all that is wrong with it:
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/2106379208.html
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/2106379208.html
The seller claims the suspension is "bad" but that is rather vague. That could mean that air springs need to be replaced (125-150 per spring plus installation), it could need a new compressor, or it could need (and likely does) the valve block rebuilt.
If you shop around for these parts and either do the work or find a local fanatic who can help you with it, the costs aren't that bad. However, if it needs all the above and you were to just take it to a dealer or independent shop, you could be looking at 2-3 (maybe even 4 at a stealership) thousand in repairs.
I just picked up a "new to me" 99 that just had a new compressor and new air springs put in rear. I will need to replace the rear air springs shortly and will want to (to avoid the headaches that would result when it goes bad if i don't) rebuild the valve block (maybe a 400-500 dollar job if done through a local fanatic).
After deciding I wanted one of these, I started doing a lot of homework and my conclusion is that these cars are slightly more fickle BMWs. If I do the homework, am a savvy shopper, and make sure to do proper maintenance, my E46 is phenomenal and runs like a champ. If I drive the car until something breaks, odds are, in that process, I've done a lot of other damage and will now have a large bill. With Range Rovers, it's more or less the same.
So, for the Range you found, I would try and find a local guy who could go and look at it and really inspect the car. When I looked at the one I am signing for later today, I thought everything sounded and looked great. When the fanatic went over, he found a ton of stuff that will need to be replaced over the next 1, 3, and 6 months and that put into perspective the real cost of ownership. I'm getting the car for 6500 but will likely spend another 2500 on it in the first 6 months.... the good news though is that, after having done so, I will have a truck that, aside from regular maintenance, should be good for another 50-75k miles
#23
2000- if you can do the work yourself it is very inexpensive. When I did the air springs on mine it took a whole 20 minutes to each end of the vehicle with just a lack and simple hand tools.
When I bought mine I got all the records since it was new. The previous owner had the air suspension replaced a couple years before and it was $2,300 at the dealership. Never go there for service, we can help you do it yourself from here.
When I bought mine I got all the records since it was new. The previous owner had the air suspension replaced a couple years before and it was $2,300 at the dealership. Never go there for service, we can help you do it yourself from here.
#24
Exactly
The rover I just bought has a new compressor and new rear springs. I'm going to replace the fronts ASAP as they already have very small leaks. I figure letting that go just puts undue stress on the valve block and compressor (the block will likely need overhauling at some point in the next 20k miles). I have 94 on the clock.
The rover I just bought has a new compressor and new rear springs. I'm going to replace the fronts ASAP as they already have very small leaks. I figure letting that go just puts undue stress on the valve block and compressor (the block will likely need overhauling at some point in the next 20k miles). I have 94 on the clock.
#25
Hey 2000_328i where did you find your local RR "fanatic" as you describe him/her? On craigslist? What is protocol on that - offer some cash to help perform due diligence on the car? I'm going to the dealer for final diligence this weekend and although I have confidence in my abilities to see massive, material faults in the car, I am by no means a mechanic. I already assume that I'm going to need to put in around $1500 for this 01 p38 with 121K miles... Thanks for your advice.
#26
Hey 2000_328i where did you find your local RR "fanatic" as you describe him/her? On craigslist? What is protocol on that - offer some cash to help perform due diligence on the car? I'm going to the dealer for final diligence this weekend and although I have confidence in my abilities to see massive, material faults in the car, I am by no means a mechanic. I already assume that I'm going to need to put in around $1500 for this 01 p38 with 121K miles... Thanks for your advice.
He also, as part of the agreement, was willing to help me with labor as he does a ton of work on his own truck (and has owned 4 other P38s prior to it). We are doing the front springs and valve block this weekend (charging around 800 for parts and labor). I then have to order front brakes, serpentine belt, new hoses, and rotory coupler... at that point, the truck will be more or less fully overhauled. Down the road, will do the tie rods/drag links and will repair the heated seat functionality (doesn't work on either side) and, after that, should have a truck that, aside from routine check ups, will be trouble free for 75k or so miles.
The nice thing I have learned about these trucks is that, if you take care of the major problem areas, they really aren't any worse than a Jeep. You just can't wait for things to go wrong. You have to educate yourself on the signals that things are starting to go bad and attend to them (or do preventive maintenance as I am with the valve block so things never go wrong in the first place).
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#30
I then tried white vinegar which I had heard great things about. That killed off a good amount of the smell but also left a little bit of a lingering odor.
I then read about charcoal so I bought some, put it in a popcorn bowl, and left it in the trunk for a few days. That didn't do much of anything.
At this point, I think I might rent a carpet steamer/cleaner thing that you would rent at the supermarket. They have "odor eliminator" sprays that you pour onto carpets prior to using the vaccuum portion. I think I will use that on all the floor mats and then use a spray bottle to spray it lightly on the cars carpet. Then suck it all up with the vaccuum and leave the car with the windows open for a few hours to air out. Hopefully that will kill off the lingering smells once and for all.
But the exterior cleaning I'm very good at. Only thing I can't/don't do is using an orbital... I really want to attend a detailing class at some point to learn how to safely use one of those.