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advice on buying a 1991. its been sitting awhile...

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Old 02-24-2013, 12:33 PM
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Default advice on buying a 1991. its been sitting awhile...

Hello range rover community. I currently own a discovery but have been eyeballing ange rover classics for some time and just finally got around to looking into getting one. So the one in question I want some advice about is a silver 91 from Nevada but has been relocated here to ct. The body is straight and it looks to be totally rust free. It's got 180k in it. The guy wants 900. Firm. There are two issues. One it has a blown transmission but it does however come with a good trans ready to be plopped in. The other issue is it was taken off the road in 2001. It's been under a cover and in a carport but that's along time to sit. Tires are bad. He said the motor ran fine when parked but I have no way of telling as the battery is dead and I wouldn't turn it over without a good gone through. I know all of you are partial to rangies but what do you think? Thanks.
 

Last edited by mtrdrms; 02-24-2013 at 12:45 PM.
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Old 02-24-2013, 03:29 PM
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I've got three RRC's. 93,94,95. Let me put it this way, If it has no rust on it, buy it and worry about the engine and trany later! My 93 sat for just about 6 years all because some "professional" mechanic crossed a ground with the ignition coil. The engine did not have any spark to fire. I fixed that about 2 summers ago, scraped off some moss and put her on the road again. As luck would have it, I was looking for another rover for my brother, same problem, the owner replaced the ignition system thinking he was doing preventive maintenance. The rover sat for 3 years all because he crossed a wire leading to the ignition coil from the Ignition coil amplifier on the Dizy. Check the fuses, if you have a manual, use it to identify the ignition circuit. If blown, replace it and see what you get. My 95 came from California, I purchased it here on the east coast. Though it may have come from out west, doesn't mean there isn't rust. Look Close, look where you wouldn't usually. Personally, if he has another tranny, and all you need is an engine take the deal, especially for the price. Buick 215's are strong engines, its the electrical aspects that fail! Nothing a weekend trouble shooting with your buddies cant fix.
 
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:21 PM
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I hear ya. My motto is "buy the body". Mechanicals can be worked out and used parts can be sourced but body stuff gets tricky. I just know that some vehicals don't store well. Thanks for the input.
 
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:32 AM
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I would agree with "buy the body" if and only if you can do all your own work. If not you might be better spending a few extra dollars up front.

I bought one that had been sitting for quite a while he's an idea of what your going to have into it after the tranny and getting it running.

New tires, new shocks, new battery,new brakeline, most likey new calipers (frozen from sitting), hoses, belts, exhaust, all fluids, all filters, plugs, wires.

Sometimes extra money spent up from pays off in the long run.

JMHO
 
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:48 PM
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If you are a good enough mechanic who can 100% if the work yourself and you have a minimum of a couple thousand to invest it it you might have a good project on your hands. If you cannot do all of the work or don't have the available funds I would run away fast. In fact, I wouldn't even recommend you take it if they paid you to take it. Rovers can be fussy enough when they are your daily drivers. I can't imagine one that has sat for 12 years. The bodies on these don't rust because they are made out of aluminum (except for the tailgate.) Really, the body and interior need to be in pristine shape or you are retired and need a project to keep you out of trouble for this to be a good deal. There are many old rovers in running condition that can be had for a few thousand dollars. I bought my truck 4 years and 60k miles ago for $4k. I'm sure I've put $4k into over the years keeping it going too. Don't get me wrong, I love Rovers but if you aren't a shade tree mechanic or have a lot of zeros in your bank account balance they are not a good choice.
 

Last edited by krazzz; 02-25-2013 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:56 PM
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I.do all of my own work and I have a garage with a lift but I don't want to spend ore than 2k total. I was thinking tires, tune up, trans install, maybe a few lines and a good cleaning. That may be unrealistic but its hard to find good ones around here for under 5k.
 
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:20 AM
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that was my idea also but in reality it took a lot more,
but it end up need a heater core (12 hours),
the calipers were a frozen they stopped, until i tried to compress them and each caliper had a frozen pistion or two.
the exhaust last about 2-days,
everything rubber need replacing.

The best part of the whole deal was insurance gave me $8800 for a car I paid $1500 for, so I bought it back for $500 and will throw a nose on it.

I wonder how much I can make off of it this time?
 
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:18 PM
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Again, look where you don't usually look. Buying the body is an excellent idea. However, buying a classic is like opening a can of worms, even if you know your way around it you will always find something! Work can build up fast, I'm still trouble shooting a problem with my 95. When in doubt, slap a carb on the engine and you'll be set! Eliminate all possibles of electrical issues with the engine! There's nothing on this Rover you cant do yourself in some shape or form.
 
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:25 PM
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I just bought a 95 RRC, with 130K on it. Had/has a few ancillary system issues: ABS pump, brake calipers, leaky valve covers, dead AC, bald tires..... But it was a Cali truck for its first ten years: thus has no rot and only a little surface rust. Compression good, new tranny 3 years ago, ARB bumper, Warn winch..... I feel I stole it for <$3K But also know I'm going to put close to $10K into, prepping for off road use.

I'd say 900 is a VERY good price for rust free rolling chassis RRC
 
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