I just checked. You get three times to try and then you are locked out for 1 hour. Then you only get one try and if wrong again it is locked for another hour. Basically get the right code and then put it somewhere safe.

 

Do you remember what the radio codes looked like? I mean is it a sequence of buttons that I have to push on the radio or would it perhaps be some variations of the numbers on the back of the radio itself? Is this something I could crack or must I definitely call the dealership?

So I took the Rover out for the first time yesterday. What a smooth ride. I really like the way it cruises. It has the zero to sixty of a Sherman tank but when it gets there its very smooth. I used the AES buddy to reset the system after installing the bags. It worked initially and the RR went to off road mode right away. I did notice that the AES selection lights kept flashing even when selected and it automatically chose what driving mode it liked based on my speed. Is that normal btw? I didn’t get a manual with the truck and was also wondering if you guys knew of a place I could read up on the normal operation of the EAS system? I’m trying to figure out what selections to make while driving, what the little up and down hold looking button with a light on it does and when to use the highway button and what that does etc.

So I got home and noticed that it was leaking a little air at the block. I went ahead and installed the new o rings I purchased from Rover and got that all sealed up. I used the Buddy to reset again but it didn’t take so I let it sit for the night. In the morning I released all the air from the system and reset it again. It faulted right away so after a couple tries I figured I would move on. I drove it up on the ramps (im kind of done with the whole jack stands idea though you would be proud of me as i took the spare tire out and stashed it under the frame) and worked on installing the fated O2 sensors, when I was done I tried the buddy again and the Rover "sprang" to life looking like a redneck truck on a 6 inch lift. I got really excited and since I had no more leaks or faults decided to take my wife out to dinner with it tonight as a trial run. With the interior almost perfect and freshly steam cleaned and treated it was a really comfortable ride. It did fine for about 20 min and then faulted again. I reset it and it wouldn’t take. I tried a couple more times but we ended up riding home just above the Bump stops which was a lousy ride after a big dinner. My wife asked me why I was so excited about this thing and I had to explain that It was still a work in progress... Anyway I read the codes when I got home and it coded Left Front fault. So tomorrow Ill climb under there and see if I can figure that one out. Do you guys have any shortcuts for diagnosing a LF Fault? Thanks.

I’ve got two weeks to get this thing tip top before I hope to use it for a ride to Jacksonville Fl. The tranny in my GMC Sierra just started to slip so that is going in the shop and I’ll be relying on my Rover to get around this week. If I can’t get it right I’ll have to ride to Jacksonville in my wife’s impeccably clean Chevy Cavalier. It’s a nice enough little car but a crappy ride. With my GMC (which rides like a Cadillac btw) in the shop the Rover is my last chance for leather seats for a 14 hr down and back run. I hope I can get it off the ground (punn fully intended). Thanks for your help.

Sometimes I think this is more of an exercise in maintaining excitement and sanity then anything else. If it weren’t for you guys I would have had a bon fire with the entire AES component inventory off my Rover a long time ago ;-# Hope you all are having a great weekend.

 

You still have a leak somewhere if you are still getting a fault. I am guessing that your compressor is running longer than it should and so it is timing out and throwing the fault. You may have a leak like I had, I could not find the leak when at off road or standard height but could find it at Highway and crawl modes. That may also be why once you put it on the ramps it came back to life, the bag was in a different position. You may need to sit under it while doing the ride heights and look for the leak.

 

Well I’ve got to put the rover in the shop. I really didn’t want to but this one is out of my league I think. Turns out I have a cracked flex plate and the tyranny has to come out. I learned this by failing emissions. Apparently there is a knock sensor that sends off bells and whistles and it won’t pass until I fix it. I’ll probably have them do the rear seal and torsion converter at the same time which will be good to get out of the way. In the old days I would just tear it down in the garage but I really don’t know if I’m up for this one.

What’s really bugging me though is that the pump for the air ride system has shut off and just won’t turn on with the regular system. I thought perhaps it was because of the faulty EAS Buddy that I purchased. It quit after I had reset the system a few times. The fellow sent me a new one and was really good about it but unfortunately it didn’t help and the computer just won’t talk to the compressor. It doesn’t show a fault but the compressor just doesn’t turn on.

I took it to the dealership and they said that the compressor was overheating and would have to be replaced (600.00) but even when I run it by jumping the pins at the fuse bus it doesn’t even get hot. Do you know any way to reset the pump so it will talk to the computer again? I think perhaps I might have run it too long and it got really warm once (maybe 10 minor so). Even then it wasn’t smoking or anything it was just really warm to the touch. Is there some kind of reset that you know of to reset the overheating code?

I have been overriding the system at the fuse bus and operating the compressor for 5 min or so with the door open and then closing the door and selecting my ride height. It jumps right up and then I disconnect the rectangular bus below the driver’s seat and it stays up for days but I would really like to get it up and running again properly. Any advice? Thanks.
Josiah

 

Huh, if it stays up for days after you select the ride height then I do not believe you have another leak. The compressor will get a little warm and maybe hot depending on how long it runs. If the compressor does not respond or does run too long then it may go into fault mode. If the buddy box was bad it could have damaged the eas computer and that may be a new issue. You should be able to find a used compressor if you needed to for much less than $600.

I am not sure why the flex plate would need to be replaced for failing emissions. What code are they getting from the computer to show it is the flex plate. Do you mean the flywheel by chance since that is what tells when to spark. the flex plate is just a thin plate that connects to the torque converter and other than creating oblong bolt holes I am not sure what other damage it could do.

 

The fellow at the transmission shop said that the flex plate was cracked and would need to be replaced. He took off the front inspection plate to look at it and could plainly see the crack. On startup and in neutral there is a lot of noise that comes from between the engine and transmission. I thought at first that it was just the exhaust manifold shield (which was rattling around in there) and the o2 sensors not being installed. Fixing both helped a lot but the problem is still there. Also I have a misfire reading on #5 and a couple other codes I need to look up that I got from failing the emissions test. One of them was the knocking sensor code which they thought was due to the flex plate crack causing a knock. I am going to look them up in a few minutes to see what they are. Meanwhile I still can’t get the air pump to turn on unless I jump it. That is really bugging me because it works just fine when I do so but not with the computer and there are no codes coming up when I reset it and try again with the new buddy.

 

I would think a cracked flex plate that is causing noise at start up and neutral will make one heck of a racket at speed. I have a spare one if you need it. I have heard and seen bolts coming out of the flex plate and rattling around in there but not enough to produce an issue with the knock sensor but I guess it is possible.

It sounds like you may just need to get a new or rebuilt compressor and try it out. You should be able return it to a wrecking yard if it ends up not being the issue and something else.

 

Wow that’s a very generous offer. I would be glad to give you something for it. I had just started to look for one online. The transmission guy said that he would charge about 450 to install it but I have a friend who just offered me the use of his garage with a lift so I might try to do it myself after all. When I took off the small inspection plate I noticed fragments of a grayish white plastic that also came out of it. I am thinking that its part of a washer or perhaps even part of the torque converter. I have started to think I should just replace the whole assembly in there as well as put in a new rear seal while I’m at it.
As far as the compressor is concerned, Robert Wilson from RSW solutions has some very informative videos on You Tube and I learned how to trouble shoot the compressor. Sure enough it looks like the temp sensor is gone and I am thinking of just replacing that. I found the part for under 20 bucks at http://www.rover-renovations.com/kb_results.asp?ID=144
and with my friends shop I should be able to install it no problem. Anyway let me know if I could give you something for that flex plate and thanks for the offer. My Rover is the 4.6 HSE from 1998. I will try to post some pictures it I took the other day. I am really falling in love with my Rover for all its complexity its remarkably easy to work on with a little education.
Thanks again,
Josiah DeVore
772-486-8868
My email address is Josiah.Devore@cancercopayrelief.org

 

As far as the flex plate I just checked Roverlandparts and they sell them for $45 plus shipping. I would be cool with $10 if you wanted plus shipping. Problem with me though is it will take me about a week to get it to you since I am very busy with work this week. If I were you I would replace it your self too since it will get you to know your Rover more. I mean it will be some serious work to do so but at least you will see how everything works. You will essentially need to remove the tranny to do it but while you are at it you can replace the input shaft seal if you wanted. I am not sure what the gray plastic stuff is since I do not remember having anything like that in there on mine.

Let me know if you want mine or what you would like to do.

Good news on the compressor bit, RSW helps out so many people when it comes to the EAS system, he is amazing.

 

That sounds great. My address is 2275 Smith Ave SW Marietta GA, 30064. Let me know where to send the check or I can pay you through pay pal if you want. Thanks again. Ill have to do some more research on the gray plastic and the process but Im excited about digging in to the my Rover. I did my first tranny when I was 15 on a car my buddy gave me. It was front wheel drive and really intense! Took me three days in my grand fathers barn to get it done My mom didnt recognize me when I came out of the barn that first night. I was covered in grease and surprised myself when I looked in the mirror:P I hope this one wont be as intense.