brand new to the land rover world
Hi everyone and good day! My name is Glen. Not only am I new to this forum, I am also new to the Range Rover / Land Rover world. I am here because I could use all the advice and recommendations I can get and I have many, many questions.
Before three weeks ago, I have never even been a passenger in a Land / Range Rover, much less drove one. Now I am the owner of a 1988 Range Rover Classic and I am finding out that I may have bit off more than I can chew. I bought this because I want to make an expedition driving from New York State to Argentina and then back, leaving this coming May. I will be using this vehicle as my home, so finding campsites off the main roads will be very frequent.
I bought a 1988 Range Rover from the Los Angeles area on Ebay. Flew out there three weeks ago and drove her 4000 miles back to New York. Outside of a few minor issues, she ran quite well and all fluids were at the same level when I arrived home.
Now I would like to change the oil and filter and was wondering what the best motor oil to put in this rig? She has 129,500 miles on the engine now with no apparent leaks. I also have every single service record on this machine since she rolled off the floor room.
Because I am on such a tight budget, I was very disappointed that I did not do more research on the gas mileage of this beast. She got an average of 14 mpg from mostly highway driving. Also this thing wants premium gas!!! Ouch! I could feel my dream of this trip slipping away as my calculated fuel budget just doubled. So, my next question is two fold: Do I have to put premium gas in? And, besides keeping the speed down and the tire pressure up, any other way to squeeze another mile or two per gallon out of her? Right now the RRC has a 2” lift with new 245/75R16 mud tires on it.
I want to put a safari rack on top to put two spare tires and the fuel cans on, plus I am curious about a larger gas tank rather than the 20 gallon currently on the RR. I am also curious about having duel batteries. There is no winch and the cost of getting one with the bumper is out of my price range, although I feel it would be a comfort to have. I would also love to have any recommendations on repair shops close by to help in the modifications. I live close to Danbury, CT on the NY side.
I have not been “hands-on” with my vehicles in the past, but due to the budget and because it just makes damn good sense to know how to fix things if I intend to drive it to South America and back that I should start learning. I do have a rather large workshop manual from British Atlantic and a Haynes service and repair manual that came with it.
I wanted to keep this short and sweet, but I feel it is already too lengthy of a post, so if inclined, please respond with whatever is on your mind. I have thick skin, so don’t hold back and if previous posts hold true…you guys won’t! Hope this will be the first of many posts.
Last but not least, I do really enjoy driving this thing!!!
Before three weeks ago, I have never even been a passenger in a Land / Range Rover, much less drove one. Now I am the owner of a 1988 Range Rover Classic and I am finding out that I may have bit off more than I can chew. I bought this because I want to make an expedition driving from New York State to Argentina and then back, leaving this coming May. I will be using this vehicle as my home, so finding campsites off the main roads will be very frequent.
I bought a 1988 Range Rover from the Los Angeles area on Ebay. Flew out there three weeks ago and drove her 4000 miles back to New York. Outside of a few minor issues, she ran quite well and all fluids were at the same level when I arrived home.
Now I would like to change the oil and filter and was wondering what the best motor oil to put in this rig? She has 129,500 miles on the engine now with no apparent leaks. I also have every single service record on this machine since she rolled off the floor room.
Because I am on such a tight budget, I was very disappointed that I did not do more research on the gas mileage of this beast. She got an average of 14 mpg from mostly highway driving. Also this thing wants premium gas!!! Ouch! I could feel my dream of this trip slipping away as my calculated fuel budget just doubled. So, my next question is two fold: Do I have to put premium gas in? And, besides keeping the speed down and the tire pressure up, any other way to squeeze another mile or two per gallon out of her? Right now the RRC has a 2” lift with new 245/75R16 mud tires on it.
I want to put a safari rack on top to put two spare tires and the fuel cans on, plus I am curious about a larger gas tank rather than the 20 gallon currently on the RR. I am also curious about having duel batteries. There is no winch and the cost of getting one with the bumper is out of my price range, although I feel it would be a comfort to have. I would also love to have any recommendations on repair shops close by to help in the modifications. I live close to Danbury, CT on the NY side.
I have not been “hands-on” with my vehicles in the past, but due to the budget and because it just makes damn good sense to know how to fix things if I intend to drive it to South America and back that I should start learning. I do have a rather large workshop manual from British Atlantic and a Haynes service and repair manual that came with it.
I wanted to keep this short and sweet, but I feel it is already too lengthy of a post, so if inclined, please respond with whatever is on your mind. I have thick skin, so don’t hold back and if previous posts hold true…you guys won’t! Hope this will be the first of many posts.
Last but not least, I do really enjoy driving this thing!!!
Welcome.
More manuals are available for free download in links below. Fit on USB drive and smart phone.
If you can't price a winch, how will you afford this dream trip? Not sure I'd take off without one or something. Not a lot of AAA response in those areas.
Premium is not essential. Runs better (as ignition is calibrated for it), but does not blow up on regular. Premium is not always available. Premium is a different price in other countries. You can experiment with a half a tank of regular next time it is close to empty.
I've always thought that a fuel water separator like in boats would be good for areas where contaminated fuel is more common.
I like the dual battery idea, or even just a spare one kept charged up and stowed with the equipment.
Please consider refreshing all fluids well before leaving. And your spares kit will be ponderous (alternator, belts, hoses, fuses, relays). Certain items might be sourced from a boneyard (modules, MAF, etc.). You also are near a Rover dismantler, Paul Grant, and he might have some things that fit your new toy.
Now to the real issue - when will you start posting pix of this? Ones under 1 megapixel are easier to add to the forum.
And I'll bet that our members will have all sorts of ideas for you to consider in prepping the vehicle, like cleaning connectors and coating them with dielectric jelly before re-assembly. Adding a voltmeter, oil PSI gauge, and reliable temp gauge would be on my list. As would a 180F thermostat. Understanding the wiring diagram.
The idea of a long trip like that is a great dream that few of us could ever take. You are a lucky owner indeed. Hopefully other members will jump in with what they would add to such a trip (in addition to a titanium AMEX card).
More manuals are available for free download in links below. Fit on USB drive and smart phone.
If you can't price a winch, how will you afford this dream trip? Not sure I'd take off without one or something. Not a lot of AAA response in those areas.
Premium is not essential. Runs better (as ignition is calibrated for it), but does not blow up on regular. Premium is not always available. Premium is a different price in other countries. You can experiment with a half a tank of regular next time it is close to empty.
I've always thought that a fuel water separator like in boats would be good for areas where contaminated fuel is more common.
I like the dual battery idea, or even just a spare one kept charged up and stowed with the equipment.
Please consider refreshing all fluids well before leaving. And your spares kit will be ponderous (alternator, belts, hoses, fuses, relays). Certain items might be sourced from a boneyard (modules, MAF, etc.). You also are near a Rover dismantler, Paul Grant, and he might have some things that fit your new toy.
Now to the real issue - when will you start posting pix of this? Ones under 1 megapixel are easier to add to the forum.
And I'll bet that our members will have all sorts of ideas for you to consider in prepping the vehicle, like cleaning connectors and coating them with dielectric jelly before re-assembly. Adding a voltmeter, oil PSI gauge, and reliable temp gauge would be on my list. As would a 180F thermostat. Understanding the wiring diagram.
The idea of a long trip like that is a great dream that few of us could ever take. You are a lucky owner indeed. Hopefully other members will jump in with what they would add to such a trip (in addition to a titanium AMEX card).
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Dec 1, 2013 at 06:55 AM.
With the age of the truck, I'd consider removing the brass and copper radiator and taking it to an indy rad shop for boil out and rod out to remove calcium buildup. About $75 near me. They un-solder the side tank to do this. Find a small shop that does heavy equipment, tractors, and bus work. The Rover radiator is a teacup to them.
You can eval the radiator with an infrared thermometer, if lower rows are blocked up they will be 10F or more cooler than the top rows. Water pump and fan clutch would also be on my list (don't do one without the other). You can fit a deeper fan.
Driving under 55 may help as well. You can experiment with this, everywhere you go won't be freeway.
You can eval the radiator with an infrared thermometer, if lower rows are blocked up they will be 10F or more cooler than the top rows. Water pump and fan clutch would also be on my list (don't do one without the other). You can fit a deeper fan.
Driving under 55 may help as well. You can experiment with this, everywhere you go won't be freeway.
Thanks for the warm welcome and the quick reply. I have searched the motor oil question in previous posts, but somehow could not discern what oil for what engine. Does it matter? Do I use full synthetic?, blend? Best Brand?
I would love a winch of course, but as I understand, the front bumper will have to be replaced as well and I have seen prices at around $1,700. I know I am naive in many areas, and thought a hand winch would be a viable substitution.
I bought a full array of spare parts, in fact everything you wrote, I have a spare for it.
Will post pics as soon as I learn how.
I would love a winch of course, but as I understand, the front bumper will have to be replaced as well and I have seen prices at around $1,700. I know I am naive in many areas, and thought a hand winch would be a viable substitution.
I bought a full array of spare parts, in fact everything you wrote, I have a spare for it.
Will post pics as soon as I learn how.
Best all around oil is Shell Rotella dino 15W40. You want a diesel rated oil so it will keep all the dirt inside the engine in suspension while the filter grabs it. This is a 1962 Buick engine, not some new Euro Autobahn blaster.
A big "come along" can do some things, it is assumed you will be on dirt roads, maybe some mud, but not trying to go "overland". Recovery strap would be handy, along with money to offer other drivers.
Try to avoid this. Recovery teams can be expensive.
A big "come along" can do some things, it is assumed you will be on dirt roads, maybe some mud, but not trying to go "overland". Recovery strap would be handy, along with money to offer other drivers.
Try to avoid this. Recovery teams can be expensive.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



