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Old 02-14-2013, 08:28 AM
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Hi, Very raw Newbie here..

I am both new to range rovers and new to the forum which to be honest I didn't I'd need quite so quickly! Less than a month of ownership. Lovely car when working, need I go on??

I have a 2003 4.4 L322 Vogue, a week ago it started and stopped immediately giving a cam sensor fault. Got recovered, replaced the sensor still wouldn't start. Had the three requirements, spark fuel and compression but no go. It does have a LPG conversion.

So, off to an independent LR garage and they have just told me they're stumped too...when they turn over there is no power to the pump yet when they jump the pump it works fine. No codes and all fuses and relays are OK and the T4 says everything fine. If we're all at a loss, can anyone here help before both I and my mechanic do something silly?
 
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by chrisn3
Hi, Very raw Newbie here..

I am both new to range rovers and new to the forum which to be honest I didn't I'd need quite so quickly! Less than a month of ownership. Lovely car when working, need I go on??

I have a 2003 4.4 L322 Vogue, a week ago it started and stopped immediately giving a cam sensor fault. Got recovered, replaced the sensor still wouldn't start. Had the three requirements, spark fuel and compression but no go. It does have a LPG conversion.

So, off to an independent LR garage and they have just told me they're stumped too...when they turn over there is no power to the pump yet when they jump the pump it works fine. No codes and all fuses and relays are OK and the T4 says everything fine. If we're all at a loss, can anyone here help before both I and my mechanic do something silly?

I broke the wire to my fuel pump before and I had to take the harness out to find it. (it was completely separated two feet away from the pump) Maybe a wire is snapped somewhere?? Just a thought.
 
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Old 02-14-2013, 09:21 AM
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Yep, if the insert a meter set up for amp draw, they can measure current going to the pump circuit at the fuse. No current, or very low current, and pump has no power to turn.
 
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:30 PM
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Here's the latest situation on my poorly RR. The warranty blurb has been quoted to me as "repair of faulty items etc" at this moment in time it is classed as a breakdown and until the fault is found the warranty is ineffective....check your warranties if you have them!

My car has not started for 3 weeks as of today. It has been with an indey for 10 days and they are still none the wiser. Not their fault as there are no fault codes to go by. This is the latest update.

Power to the fuel pump when key at position 2, no power when turned to starter position but the engine turns. The pump is ok when powered up by a battery, but again, when that power is taken off it all reverts to above. Everyone is now really scratching their heads. The T4 software outfit don't have a clue and they have been on to LR at Gaydon with similar response. They are now stripping the electrical system down I believe. If anyone can help I would be eternally grateful. Not a good experience from a 4 week ownership perspective but love the car when it was running...
 
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:37 AM
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There is a device called the crank shaft position sensor. It signals the engine computer as to the position of the crankshaft as it turns, this is used to handle spark timing. This signal is also monitored to see that engine is turning, which keep the fuel pump on. I believe the engine computer needs to see something like 80 rpm minimum to keep the pump running.
 
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:08 AM
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Hi,

There are no fault codes so will the crank sensor be causing problems or does if tend to fail gradually? To be honest I'm happy for them to try anything but don't want to be changing costly components and ECU's etc for no benefit other than just spending money.

Thanks for your guidance.
 
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:57 AM
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Have you tried to run it on lpg? If it doesn't run on lp I'd check crank signal
no crank signal = no spark, no spark = no fuel

Things I've seen on petrol l322
No power supply to the rear fuse box, Maxi fuse at the passenger fuse box
is blown, you need to remove glove box and cd changer to access.
Battery cable loose on rear fuse box causing stud to melt on rear fuse box
and creating a poor electrical connection.
Poor wiring connections inside fuel tank and faulty fuel pumps.
You have also not mentioned that they have checked for fuel pressure at the
fuel rail, just because the pump makes noise when jumped does not necessarily
mean it is producing the correct volume or pressure.

Maybe you should bring it to someone with more Land Rover experience??
 
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:27 AM
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Another thought comes to mind.
Check the electrical connector at the electronic thermostat
Ive seen the tstat short out more than a few times. It melts the
engine wire harness causing all sorts of cookey problems
typically with logged faults though..
Good Luck
 
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:04 AM
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Thanks for all of your ideas. but here is the latest.

The car is at a LR specialist with all the gizmos' etc. We now have power to the fuel pump at all key positions so we definitely have fuel, spark and compression but still no start. The LPG has been completely disconnected so that can't be the issue and the T4 is showing 120 RPM via the crank sensor. There are no fault codes but it would appear it may be a timing issue so how do you fix timing if the cam and crank sensors are saying they are ok?

This is starting to make me think I should get a push bike rather than a prestige car...It must be female with all the problems I'm getting in such a short space of time.

Again, any thoughts would be graciously accepted.

Cheers...
 
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:22 AM
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Some Rover designs will operate with the cam position sensor diconnected, it then uses a fall back value. Of course, if the truck has "jumped time" then mechanic will be asking you for approval for higher dollar work. Crank position sensors can get a build up of metal fuzz on the business end and impact when they work. Only way to see that is remove and exam.
 



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