Just bought a '90 Range Rover Classic!
Hey guys. After looking around for a several months I pulled the trigger on a '90 RRC. It has a 3" OME lift. It will be used primarily for fun/winter snow driving. The body is in great shape and it runs nicely. The interior needs some help which I plan to do myself. A couple questions to get me started:
Steering wheel is off center (by about 45%). Can this be fixed by a novice or is it a job for a true mechanic?
How does one remove the wood dash trim (veneer is badly cracked and peeling so I would like to peel and refinish)
How difficult is it to troubleshoot a rear window which doesn't roll down?
RPM gauge stopped working...all other cluster gauges are operational.
Any recommendation on decent cheapish tires. It currently has mud tires on it.
Thanks for your input. I know it's a lot of questions, but forums have been very helpful in the past.
Mark
Steering wheel is off center (by about 45%). Can this be fixed by a novice or is it a job for a true mechanic?
How does one remove the wood dash trim (veneer is badly cracked and peeling so I would like to peel and refinish)
How difficult is it to troubleshoot a rear window which doesn't roll down?
RPM gauge stopped working...all other cluster gauges are operational.
Any recommendation on decent cheapish tires. It currently has mud tires on it.
Thanks for your input. I know it's a lot of questions, but forums have been very helpful in the past.
Mark
Centering the steering wheel is easy. Center the road wheels. Disconnect the drag link on one end. Center the steering wheel. Loosen both rod ends on the drag link. Turn the drag link to adjust the length so it fits the position of the pitman arm/steering knuckle when the steering wheel is centered.
If it's off by 45%, the rod ends may be worn. You might want to replace them with new. You may also want to replace the ends on the tie rod. When you've done that, adjust the length of the tie rod so the distance between the rear of the wheels is about 1/16" less than the distance between the front of the wheels. The alignment should be "toed-out" about that much. With the full-time all-wheel drive, the front wheels will pull themselves closer to neutral and you will get sufficient tracking, return to center, without excess tire wear. Setting them neutral or toeing them in would result in excess toe-in when factoring the front wheel drive.
I don't know about the dash trim on the RRC, but typically it is fixed with studs embedded in the trim, and nuts on the back side of the dash. You may want to remove panels to try to get access to the nuts.
On the rear window, check the fuse, switch, relay, motor. Use a multi-meter or a test light to see where you're getting voltage, and where you're not.
I'm reaching with the tachymeter issue, but I'd check your alternator to make sure the connection is tight and the alternator isn't dead.
If it's off by 45%, the rod ends may be worn. You might want to replace them with new. You may also want to replace the ends on the tie rod. When you've done that, adjust the length of the tie rod so the distance between the rear of the wheels is about 1/16" less than the distance between the front of the wheels. The alignment should be "toed-out" about that much. With the full-time all-wheel drive, the front wheels will pull themselves closer to neutral and you will get sufficient tracking, return to center, without excess tire wear. Setting them neutral or toeing them in would result in excess toe-in when factoring the front wheel drive.
I don't know about the dash trim on the RRC, but typically it is fixed with studs embedded in the trim, and nuts on the back side of the dash. You may want to remove panels to try to get access to the nuts.
On the rear window, check the fuse, switch, relay, motor. Use a multi-meter or a test light to see where you're getting voltage, and where you're not.
I'm reaching with the tachymeter issue, but I'd check your alternator to make sure the connection is tight and the alternator isn't dead.
a 90 RRC is an usual machine in a few ways, ABS on the front only, 4 piston calipers with double brake lines in the front, and no rear sway bay, crazy articulation in the rear.
the dash paneling will pop off gently, if the lacquer is cracked that's one thing, if the veneer is crack it is a much hard repair.
the steering wheel yeah; someone replaced front end parts and didn't center the wheel,
were the truck is new to you you might want to get it alignment. they will fix that and give your front end a once over while there are there.
Tires the bone yard the ones buy me regularly has sets of 16" for $200 or less.
my might want to add your locating, makes it easier for us
the dash paneling will pop off gently, if the lacquer is cracked that's one thing, if the veneer is crack it is a much hard repair.
the steering wheel yeah; someone replaced front end parts and didn't center the wheel,
were the truck is new to you you might want to get it alignment. they will fix that and give your front end a once over while there are there.
Tires the bone yard the ones buy me regularly has sets of 16" for $200 or less.
my might want to add your locating, makes it easier for us
Last edited by drowssap; Mar 10, 2016 at 05:57 AM.
Hey guys. After looking around for a several months I pulled the trigger on a '90 RRC. It has a 3" OME lift. It will be used primarily for fun/winter snow driving. The body is in great shape and it runs nicely. The interior needs some help which I plan to do myself. A couple questions to get me started:
Steering wheel is off center (by about 45%). Can this be fixed by a novice or is it a job for a true mechanic?
How does one remove the wood dash trim (veneer is badly cracked and peeling so I would like to peel and refinish)
How difficult is it to troubleshoot a rear window which doesn't roll down?
RPM gauge stopped working...all other cluster gauges are operational.
Any recommendation on decent cheapish tires. It currently has mud tires on it.
Thanks for your input. I know it's a lot of questions, but forums have been very helpful in the past.
Mark
Steering wheel is off center (by about 45%). Can this be fixed by a novice or is it a job for a true mechanic?
How does one remove the wood dash trim (veneer is badly cracked and peeling so I would like to peel and refinish)
How difficult is it to troubleshoot a rear window which doesn't roll down?
RPM gauge stopped working...all other cluster gauges are operational.
Any recommendation on decent cheapish tires. It currently has mud tires on it.
Thanks for your input. I know it's a lot of questions, but forums have been very helpful in the past.
Mark
The dash trim is dead simple. Just phillips screws and the vents and clock pop right out.
RPM Gauge could be a few different things. 1 wire came off at the back of the alternator. 2 the alternator is dying. 3. wire is damaged between alternator and tach. 4. Gauge is dead. 1 and 2 are the most common.
If you don't mind retreads treadwright.com is a great choice
Last edited by ArmyRover; Mar 10, 2016 at 09:14 AM.
Thanks for all the great input. I'll probably take it in and have the pros do an alignment. Will fool with the dash trim on my next day off.
Also, to add to the list of gremlins...the horn isn't working. Checked the fuse and it is good(hazards work fine which are on the same fuse). Could that be related to the tach?
Also, to add to the list of gremlins...the horn isn't working. Checked the fuse and it is good(hazards work fine which are on the same fuse). Could that be related to the tach?
15w40 Rotella is my favorite in the old 3.9 unless it's the dead of winter than I use 5w40 Rotella.
Yes I know 15w40 is diesel oil, but it has a great detergent package and these are dirty old motors.
Oh and don't use a fram filter no matter what.
Spark plugs use cheap old champion copper cores, don't use beck arnley for the cap or rotor. Kingsborne wires are great and the air filters use good old paper and change it often.
Yes I know 15w40 is diesel oil, but it has a great detergent package and these are dirty old motors.
Oh and don't use a fram filter no matter what.
Spark plugs use cheap old champion copper cores, don't use beck arnley for the cap or rotor. Kingsborne wires are great and the air filters use good old paper and change it often.
Your lift is the reason that the steering wheel is off center when the steering is centered. I would wager a guess that the axle is off center slightly as well, for the same reason. My old LWB had the same affliction, I never got around to correcting it before I had to get rid of it.
An adjustable panhard rod will correct both issues.
An adjustable panhard rod will correct both issues.
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