The Range is throwing codes again..
The Range has gone about 4 months without any serious issue, so I guess it was about due for a problem...anyway...
Being winter and all, I have been using the heater, and pretty much since it started getting real cold here in NC (January), the heater was blowing out cooler air whenever I was stopped (at idle), but was pumping out just fine while running at speed. So I chalked that up to a bubble in the coolant line, and drove it sparingly till I got a chance to fix it. Well the rover just wouldn't let me win..we got a random warm day (low 70's) and she started overheating after a lengthy drive and the SES light came on. So I went and bought some coolant, checked all the hoses, everything seems to be hooked up, and both hoses going into the firewall (heater core in/out) are hot at temp, but coolant was very low. Took a little over a gallon to get it back up to the cool line, so it was about 1/3 low.
Now she's been driven a good few miles, the code has not cleared, but the heat symptoms are gone, and no more over heating (not even a suspicious rise on the temp gauge). But since the light is still on, I went and got the codes pulled...here they are:
P1413 - Manufacturer Control - Aux Emissions
P0118 - Engine Coolant Temp - High Input
Got em pulled at Advance, so I have no idea about the first code since is a LR code, and the 2nd, I'm not sure if that just means a new coolant temp sensor or if that's what a low coolant code looks like, orrrr what. Any help would be appreciated!
Being winter and all, I have been using the heater, and pretty much since it started getting real cold here in NC (January), the heater was blowing out cooler air whenever I was stopped (at idle), but was pumping out just fine while running at speed. So I chalked that up to a bubble in the coolant line, and drove it sparingly till I got a chance to fix it. Well the rover just wouldn't let me win..we got a random warm day (low 70's) and she started overheating after a lengthy drive and the SES light came on. So I went and bought some coolant, checked all the hoses, everything seems to be hooked up, and both hoses going into the firewall (heater core in/out) are hot at temp, but coolant was very low. Took a little over a gallon to get it back up to the cool line, so it was about 1/3 low.
Now she's been driven a good few miles, the code has not cleared, but the heat symptoms are gone, and no more over heating (not even a suspicious rise on the temp gauge). But since the light is still on, I went and got the codes pulled...here they are:
P1413 - Manufacturer Control - Aux Emissions
P0118 - Engine Coolant Temp - High Input
Got em pulled at Advance, so I have no idea about the first code since is a LR code, and the 2nd, I'm not sure if that just means a new coolant temp sensor or if that's what a low coolant code looks like, orrrr what. Any help would be appreciated!
Before you burn up your engine, you need to talk to a mechanic, like tomorrow. Your lack of quick action and what is going on will toast that engine.
Tomorrow, without driving it anywhere but the shop, go have the coolant system pressure tested for leaks, you may have blown your head gaskets.
Get back to us what they have found an an estimate if you want any help.
Tomorrow, without driving it anywhere but the shop, go have the coolant system pressure tested for leaks, you may have blown your head gaskets.
Get back to us what they have found an an estimate if you want any help.
I realized the risk of waiting...but it's only been driven 8 miles between the temp rising and me putting in coolant, and then only another 12 after putting in coolant.
And If I blew a head gasket, wouldn't I have some serious drive-ability problems, coupled with loss of coolant? Not to mention white smoke in the exhaust?
I would just like some help in further diagnosis, without taking it to a mechanic. The idea here is to keep costs down, as much as I would love to be able to have a professional diagnosis with every SES occurance.
And If I blew a head gasket, wouldn't I have some serious drive-ability problems, coupled with loss of coolant? Not to mention white smoke in the exhaust?
I would just like some help in further diagnosis, without taking it to a mechanic. The idea here is to keep costs down, as much as I would love to be able to have a professional diagnosis with every SES occurance.
If you have a plug on top of your radiator, WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD, pull it & start the engine
As your stat opens you should detect flow - i.e. coolant movement.
If you see it, that means your pump & stat are working. (not to say they're fine, tho')
I check coolant level monthly on both of mine, since last year my disco was leaking b/tw head & block (I put in Barr's stopleak & haven't had a problem since)
Knock on my forehead
I assume your temp guage showed hot?
Also, CHECK YOUR OIL/DIPSTICK often looking for the dreaded chocolate milkshake - That's the kiss of death
As your stat opens you should detect flow - i.e. coolant movement.
If you see it, that means your pump & stat are working. (not to say they're fine, tho')
I check coolant level monthly on both of mine, since last year my disco was leaking b/tw head & block (I put in Barr's stopleak & haven't had a problem since)
Knock on my forehead
I assume your temp guage showed hot?
Also, CHECK YOUR OIL/DIPSTICK often looking for the dreaded chocolate milkshake - That's the kiss of death
I don't have the plug on top of the radiator, I've got the coolant resevoir that has the fill cap. I removed it when cold, filled up to the cool fill line, and then watched for flow at start up. Ran only a short bit without that cap on, and got definite flow through there. Also to note I don't think I've really lost any coolant since filling it back up a few days ago.
Also today I checked the oil cap and oil dipstick for signs of coolant. I don't quite know what the milkshake color would be exactly (I've always preferred Vanilla milkshakes [8D]) but they both looked very oil-like. Dark brown no bubbles or anything exciting.
Thanks for the help!
Any idea on the Secondary Air Injection code? I found another thread on DiscoWeb that showed a few members just having to clean out the valve (gotta crawl under there and find this valve though..). Also since it is an emissions control system..I wouldn't be harming the engine at all by worry about the coolant issue first, and then the SAI? I am just risking the cat in that case?
Also today I checked the oil cap and oil dipstick for signs of coolant. I don't quite know what the milkshake color would be exactly (I've always preferred Vanilla milkshakes [8D]) but they both looked very oil-like. Dark brown no bubbles or anything exciting.
Thanks for the help!
Any idea on the Secondary Air Injection code? I found another thread on DiscoWeb that showed a few members just having to clean out the valve (gotta crawl under there and find this valve though..). Also since it is an emissions control system..I wouldn't be harming the engine at all by worry about the coolant issue first, and then the SAI? I am just risking the cat in that case?
You might want to snoop around for the land rover rave cd, it's ALL the manuals on disk.
I may have bought mine on ebay, I don't remember.
Make sure it covers your year
It shows you where every part of your truck is.
I may have bought mine on ebay, I don't remember.
Make sure it covers your year
It shows you where every part of your truck is.
Well...today the light just went off..I'm pretty sure it was just taking a while to reset itself after the engine started to overheat due to lack of coolant, but now that she's all filled back up, it seems to have turned off.
This still doesn't seem to explain the Secondary Air Injection issue..or does a high ECT value somehow make the SAI not run at start up?
This still doesn't seem to explain the Secondary Air Injection issue..or does a high ECT value somehow make the SAI not run at start up?
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