My 94 RRC LWB Has had a bad case of the shakes since I got it. It usually only happens above 45MPH and on bumpy roads.
It was real bad around corners. Some vibe may be wheel balance. I noticed some crud on the inside of the rims.
So far, I have replaced Panhard Rod Bushings,Track Rod, Track Rod Adjuster, 4 Tie-Rod Ends, Steering Damper, F/R Sway Bar Ball Joints And Bushings.
I took it out for a test drive tonight and it only did it once at about 75MPH on a bumpy curve out on the Interstate, but it recovered quickly without having to slow down.
It seems to be better, but not quite solid yet. I have Blisten shocks and Blue Coils from an EAS conversion kit in right now.
Next I am going to replace the Front Blisten Shocks with new OEM Shocks and replace the rest of the Suspension Bushings as well as the Rear Shock Bushings.
I have the Complete Standard Black Bushing Kit from Atlantic British for $149.
If it still persists after that; do I need to adjust the steering gear box?
I have located the lock nut and set screw. Looks like a fun one to get loose.
Any tips on how to break that nut loose would be appreciated.

Found a great way to get that rear A-Arm Ball Joint to pop.
After beating on it for a couple hours; I just put the casteling nut on flush for the test drive and when I pulled back in to the drive way it rocked a bit and broke loose.

 

Stop right now! you need to adjust your swivel ball pre-load.

 

Um... no and yes.
No, I can't stop at this point. She's got 170,000 miles on her OE parts and I'm replacing everything including a swivel ball tune-up.
Yes, I have heard that the swivel ball pre-load may be a part of the issue.
I have also read the panhard rod bushings or steering damper will cause this when they get bad and allow for lateral movement or that the steering gear box may need to be adjusted to take out the play.
It only occurs at higher speed and when set off by a big bump and is worse if it happens on a corner.
I had a passenger look out the window one time and he said that the axle was moving left to right and not up and down.
This lead me to replace all the bushings. The clanging metal was the indicator for the tie-rods and ball joints.
I figured that the pistons on the shocks must be toast if they have been vibing sideways like that for who knows how long before i got it.
I have the rear suspension and the front radius arms out right now to get the bushings pressed.
When they return I will finish the shocks and do the rear brakes.
I plan on ordering wheel bearing kits and swivel ball kits on the next round of parts when I get the spare cash.

If it still shakes after all that; it would have to be gear mesh on the steering right?

 

MP37, Swivel ball preload and tires will correct the issue.

 

Every other part has either fallen off or had to be broken off.
I have 3 different sets of rims and new tires for this ride (16"/16"/18") so I really don't think the tires are the issue.
Again, I'm still working on a complete rebuild of the entire suspension..
I just have 4 more bushings and I will be done with that nightmare!
I will then take it in and get it alligned. Last time they couldn't do anything with it because the tie-rod ends on the track rod were ceased.
I ended up twisting one clean off trying to get it out. All of the ball joints and tie rod ends were just a few miles from dropping out.
Thanks for the ideas. Let me get it back together and do the back brakes... then I can check the Swivels.
I will let you know what I come up with.

 

I finally have all of the suspension renewed except the shocks.
To it for a 10 minute test drive.
Rides like a dream except the shake still happened on a big pot hole.
Now it's more voilent and really kicks the steering wheel.
Sounds and feels like something has play(possibly in the steering gear mesh).
Only reason I'm concerned with mesh is because of the lateral beating it's been taking.
So we now are truely down to the swivel ***** and PSGB.

Any idea what it would cost to have the swivel ***** and wheel bearings restored at the dealer?

 

MP37, I understand your concerns. I had the same many moons ago. It does not seem logical but, preload is the answer! If you are mechanically inclined, I can walk you thru it...

LWB's rule!

 

I have the OE manual and have looked at the procedurein section 54.
They show it as part of a complete teardown.
I don't have a problem with the mechanical end of it.
It just looks time consuming.
I have seriously spent more time under this vehicle than driving it since April!

What is the time estimate for your approach?
What parts do I need?

 

O.K.
Talked to the dealer and they say about $600 for the adjustment and probably another $500 for wheel bearings.
So to do this right myself what do I need...

Light duty spring scale
2 top swivel pin kits with seals, shims and bearing.
2 wheel bearing rebuild kits.
Torque wrench.
Anything else?

 

MP, this is the short cut method that the Dealer will use and it works! Acquire a fishing scale from a local source. Remove front wheels and all tie rods connected to the hub. The hubs will likely flop back and forth. Remove the top two bolts on the hub assembly. Remove the top swivel pin and the shims. Start by removing a shim equal to a business card. Replace the bolts and tighten. Connect the scale to the tie rod socket, pull and watch for a 16-18 inch pound reading after initial break off. You will leak some oil or grease from the swivel.

Far from complete but a start...