Nice! I was hoping there was an easier way than shown in the manual. It looked like you could do it while assembled, but they show it at the end of the axle rebuild process before re-assembly. Planned on restoring the swivel assemblies yet this summer. Just don't have the time for a complete teardown right now.
Just need to get it stable so I can do the shocks and get it alligned again. I will rotate tires have them balanced again when in for another alignment.
I paid $90 for unlimited alignments for the next 3 years on her so that's covered!
Thanks for the condensed version of the repair process and the conversions to inch pounds(manual shows nM).
I'll owe you one after this.

 

This is not the ' manual ' procedure, it's a field procedure. Have your swivel ***** been converted to grease? If they have, they should have stickers under the hood stating such. You will need to replenish the grease lost by this ' Field ' procedure. Half a tube of one shot per side.

 

Yup. I don't see the need to strip it just to adjust the top pin a bit. I don't think it has been converted to grease. DS swivel ball seal leaks a little but never leaves a drip on anything. I know this is a temporary fix, but if it takes the "slack" out I'll be a happy camper. A summary of what I read. Note: the numbers below are with swivel ball seal and the axle removed. Attach a spring scale to ball joint bore and pull... resistance should be 1.16 to 1.46 kg. Adjust by removing or adding shims to top swivel pin. When correct apply Loctite, tighten to 78 Nm, and bend lock tabs.Substitute in your numbers and Bingo. And ya, it's kinda like changing a u-joint with a rock and a socket a million miles from nowhere. It may no be the "right" way to do it, but if it works...
I'll get it done here in the next couple days and report back.

 

O.K finally got to it.
It all went pretty smooth. About 45 minutes a side.
The drivers side had 5 shims on it and I removed the thickest one to get is to test right.
The passenger side only had two shims. It had a thick one and one razor thin one. I removed the thick one and this side will only hold to about 10 inch pounds.
Should I remove the other shim or do I need to do some thing different?

I took it out for a spin and it feels tighter. It only shook a little on and old bridge on the roughest highway I could find, but it recovered instantly.
This fix should get me by until I commit to the final drive assembly re-build. It won't see speeds over 50 MPH for a while.
I still have the shocks and radius arm bushings to do so I will carry on.

 

MP37, it is very critical that you get both swivel ***** to drag 16-18 in/LBs. If you can not acquire this reading you may have internal swivel ball problems. Front tires and swivel ball preload will give you the shakes.

 

So...
I went back into the passenger side and chipped around a little and a couple more shims were found and removed.
I finally got it to hold between 15-18 "lbs. I rotated tires again and took it for a drive.
It's finally consistent on tension while turning both ways and the shakes are gone.
Now for the tires. The tires on it right now are Uniroyal Loredo's. I noticed today that 3 are "Nail Guard" tires and one is not. After rotating these all the way around the vehicle a couple times and having the non-NG end up on the drivers front today; I noticed that the non-"Nail Guard" tire is the softest and best riding tire out of the bunch. I know the nail guard tires are about the worst thing you can put on a smooth riding vehicle. I'm thinking of getting a matching non-NG to put on the passenger side front.
After this year these will be used only for winter tires. I am just trying to get this front end straightened out before I throw on my 18"s. The 16"s are cheap, but the Toyo's on the 18"s are about $245 each so I don't want to mount them on a loose front end.
I'll go back to the shocks, radius arm bushings and another allignment and have a new tire mounted on that passenger side and let see what happens.
Thanks again for your patience, I have built many a 4x4, but none the likes of this!

 

Congrads! Shakes are gone!!!

 

It getting better all the time.
Took it in today and had 2 new tires put on the front and another allignment. It drives and rides great. There is still a little clunk in the front, but I'm hoping that will be cured when I get the new shocks in and those radius arm bushings done. I have 2 new cat's on the way so I will take the exhaust and the arms to the machine shop at the same time.
She has come a long way in the last 4 months. The wife is impressed; she drove it once or twice in April when I first got it and again today. She says it feels like a new car compared to they way it drove when I took posession.
A pile of parts, a case of degreaser, about 100 hours of labor and a few helpful tips from the friendly net-neighborhood rover guys and I now have a 100% complete, 100% original(minus the air susp), 100% functional 1994 RRC LWB that is 1 of 5500ish imported into the U.S. and may very well be one of the cleanest left... to me this is truely priceless.