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Smog problem and questions

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Old 10-26-2011, 05:12 PM
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Default Smog problem and questions

Hello All,

I apologize in advance for not conducting searches prior to posting but I'm currently under a serious time crunch.

Anyways, long story short, I ended up getting a 2001 Range Rover HSE with 133K miles instead of a Discovery.

The previous owner had it registered as a Non Operating vehicle. Since I just purchased the car from him, I needed to get it smogged and registered.

The car smogged cleaned and passed all tests except with the "MIL / Check Engine Light".

The technician said either the battery was disconnected or the CEL was reset. He suggested I drive it for 50 miles or so before getting it rechecked and he thinks that should clear.
Is his suggestion valid or do I have some issues hidden with the Rover that hasn't been discovered?

Two: The Rover has mud type tires with ***** instead of regular road tires. I hear this whine while the Rover is in motion until it comes to a dead stop. I never had these tires before so I don't know if the noise is caused by the tires or actually by the drive shaft, diff, or transfer case, etc. I'm thinking maybe something needs to be lubed or fluid filled. I only had it for 2 hours so I haven't really check anything thoroughly yet. This weekend will be time for that.

Third: The nipple on radiator has cracked and leaking coolant. I noticed the clamp was partly opened and I asked him why and he said he wasn't aware. A case of not so honest seller (my fault for not insisting on finding out). As I went to replace the clamp, I realized the hose has some play. It turns out the nipped is partially cracked.
Where is the best place online to purchase a replacement radiator (good pricing), what coolant should I use (DexCool...?), and is there a DIY for radiator somewhere? Otherwise, how many hours am I looking at on the replacement job?

Again, I really apologize for not searching ahead just yet and I promise not to be lazy and post the types of threads again, but like I said, I'm really crunched on time for now.

Thank you all.

Chris
 
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:41 PM
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If battery was disonnected, or engine MIL light recently rset, this shows up to inspectors. They want to know that codes have not returned in 50 - 100 miles of driving. That's all you can do at this point. Valid suggestion, in my state in the smog area surrounding Atlanta, they won't pass your car if it was reset just before you brought it in.

Tires of that type are noisy enough to wake the zombies. But they play great in the mud and sand. They can wear out extra fast at freeway speeds.

Please flush all Dex Cool from the system until water runs clear, refill with distilled water and green or yellow coolant, like PEAK.

Download the RAVE shop manual set for free and you will have the how-to for radiator replacement. Rock Auto has them for $296, shop around. Hope broken radiator is not basis for previous overheating....
 
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:36 PM
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It has been awhile since I've pulled my radiator. It was pretty straight forward to me. Just drain the coolant, remove the fan shroud and coolant pipes. There are two bolts on the bottom of the radiator, remove those. Then the thing just slides out when you pull up. It was pretty easy if I recall. I might be missing something and I would go take a look on the rig but its outside right now and its cold and dark . That is kind of strange about the CEL and it would interesting to know what code it was.

Funny thing, my rover had a CEL come on for some transfer case sensor malfunction, cleared it and then went and had an emission test done 30min later. The guy at the emission testing station was curious as to the reliability of rovers. I told him the thing was quirky but a good rig and that the CEL was on this morning but I cleared it. He looked at me funny and said that his computer should have picked it up but didn't...

For the whine, what kind of whine is it? Does it change pitch when the transmission shifts gears? Rovers have slightly whiny transmissions. The newer ones not so much, but my P38 and Disco II both sound like they have a small turbine under them. An easy way to tell would be to put it on jacks and listen for the sound. If you still hear it, its drive line related, if not, probably just your tires.
 

Last edited by LRScott; 10-26-2011 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 10-27-2011, 02:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
If battery was disonnected, or engine MIL light recently rset, this shows up to inspectors. They want to know that codes have not returned in 50 - 100 miles of driving. That's all you can do at this point. Valid suggestion, in my state in the smog area surrounding Atlanta, they won't pass your car if it was reset just before you brought it in.

Tires of that type are noisy enough to wake the zombies. But they play great in the mud and sand. They can wear out extra fast at freeway speeds.

Please flush all Dex Cool from the system until water runs clear, refill with distilled water and green or yellow coolant, like PEAK.

Download the RAVE shop manual set for free and you will have the how-to for radiator replacement. Rock Auto has them for $296, shop around. Hope broken radiator is not basis for previous overheating....
Hello Savannah. I will take it to heart on your suggestion of flushing out the Dex Cool and replace with the Green stuff. I was able to do a little bit of reading later this afternoon and realized many members here suggested to go with the Green antifreeze, so Green or Yellow it is.

Thank you for your response.

Cheers,

Chris
 
  #5  
Old 10-27-2011, 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by LRScott
It has been awhile since I've pulled my radiator. It was pretty straight forward to me. Just drain the coolant, remove the fan shroud and coolant pipes. There are two bolts on the bottom of the radiator, remove those. Then the thing just slides out when you pull up. It was pretty easy if I recall. I might be missing something and I would go take a look on the rig but its outside right now and its cold and dark . That is kind of strange about the CEL and it would interesting to know what code it was.

Funny thing, my rover had a CEL come on for some transfer case sensor malfunction, cleared it and then went and had an emission test done 30min later. The guy at the emission testing station was curious as to the reliability of rovers. I told him the thing was quirky but a good rig and that the CEL was on this morning but I cleared it. He looked at me funny and said that his computer should have picked it up but didn't...

For the whine, what kind of whine is it? Does it change pitch when the transmission shifts gears? Rovers have slightly whiny transmissions. The newer ones not so much, but my P38 and Disco II both sound like they have a small turbine under them. An easy way to tell would be to put it on jacks and listen for the sound. If you still hear it, its drive line related, if not, probably just your tires.
Hello LRScott. The whining sound is more pronounced at city street speed. I don't hear it on the freeway because I think the wind noise drowns it out and the tire rotation speed is such that the sound is somewhat canceled out? I'm concerned it might be a drive shaft with where the U-joints are worn? I'm guessing at this point. However, I'm a little more convinced now that the noise might be from the type of tires. At city street speed, it's loud until the Rover comes to a dead stop.

If I have a chance, I will try to take pictures while I replace the radiator so I can create a DIY and post it here for others.

Thanks,

Chris
 
  #6  
Old 10-27-2011, 04:44 AM
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See if you can find a sand or dirt or grass area to drive and see if tire noise goes away, or U-joints screaming for grease continue....
 
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