with evil spirits and things! Well, not really, but it sure seems that way at times.
I'm hoping some of you very knowledgable LR gurus will be able to help me with some ongoing issues that is literally driving me nuts.

First, I've been researching and reading posts on this board for quite some time. I have also downloaded the RAVE manual and regularly reference it.

So, my fiance has this 2001 Disco II that runs great sometimes and at other times will barely run at all. After reading some things on here, I half expected to have to change spark plug wires and mass air flow sensor. So, I took it to our local Autozone and had the codes read. It showed P0103, P0175,P0172 and the three amigos(which I will worry about later)
After seeing these and not seeing any misfires, I felt pretty sure that it WAS going to be a MAF. I also thought it might be worth taking a chance on cleaning it before plunking down a wad of money for a new one. Upon removing the MAF, I found that the air duct that houses the MAF was only attached to the airbox by one tab (the other was broken off) I also found that the opposite end of that same air duct was loose on the air intake (throttle body?) So, dirty air had been reaching the MAF. I removed the MAf and cleaned it with MAF cleaner. I also fixed the air box and the loose connection on the air intake. After this, the Rover ran like a top for a week or so. Now it's back to running terrible.
I had the codes read again and it's still showing the same codes.
So, should I buy a new MAF now or is there something else I should check first?

Here are the symptoms: It starts fine, but will sometimes die after it idles down. other times it will almost die(300rpm) and then rev up(1100rpm) before finally getting to the point it will idle okay(750rpm).
It frequently dies when coming to a stop sign or light. You can also feel it missing occasionally when driving at highway speeds.
I have noticed that it is worse when the humidity is up or going up. It runs better when it cool and dry.

Thanks in advance

Coop

 

Clean the IACV, which is just down stream from the MAF. It is a 200 level stepper motor that with precisison adjusts the quantity of air that reaches the engine when her dainty right foot is not pressing the gas pedal. In other words, it is a computer controlled vacuum leak that maintains idle. Once this is resolved clear codes and see how it does. This device is cleaned with carb cleaner, as well as the bore it comes out of. Since you have had unmetered and unclean air reaching the throttle body, time to clean that as well (throttle body cleaner of course).

 

Thanks, I will do this tomorrow.

fyi...I drove it to work this morning and while driving approx. 35 mph, it just cut out (acted like it died, but was actually just sputtering at idle) I had to pull off the road. It would just idle and whenever I would try to give it more gas it would about kill it. It finally died and when I started it up again, it then would get above idle and allowed me to continue down the road. Demons I'm telling you! LOL

 

Could also be loose connection mud chiggers - unplug and reseat various sensors, like MAF, IACV, TPS, etc. Probably not CKP (crank position sensor) because it was still running.

 

Don't worry about the idle control valve, that is not your problem.
Fix all your air leaks at the box. if you need a good used box and or MAF, call me.
Yes, the MAF does need to go which will clear your other 2 codes.
If you go for a new MAF, consider British Parts of Utah, they have one of the better priced,"BOSCH" MAF's and don't buy any generic or after market units, they won't work.