I just bought a new project. A 2001 Disco II. I bought it assuming it needed head gaskets and it may have a slipped sleeve and need a new engine. I got it towed to my house and when I was checking it out, I decided to see how it acted when turned over. Well to my surprise, it started right up and sounded like it was running great.

The previous owner had it looked at by a Land Rover mechanic and he is 95% sure it's a slipped cylinder sleeve. He said he got it started but took a lot of work...as if there was coolant in one of the cylinders that had to be pushed out. I wondering if it started right up because it's completely dry...needless to say, I didn't let it run long.

My questions:

1. If it has a leaking head gasket or slipped sleeve would it run poorly?

2. Do I need to worry about causing any damage if I want to fill it up with water (or water/coolant mix if necessary) and let it run?

3. What do you recommend I do to see if this engine is salvageable.

Like I said, it seems to run and drive great. I just worry when I fill it up with coolant it's going to start acting up again.

 

1. The slipped sleeve usually shows up as a ticking sound that begins after engine really warmed up. When the sleeve starts slipping, it hits the fire ring of the head gaskets. As engine is revved up, the piston speed up/down is so fast that the sleeve can't travel that far before it reverses. So while it is still moving, it does not have the amplitude needed to hit the gasket.

2. Many members drive with the annoying tick.

3. An OBDII port scanner or Ultra Gauge can show you the real temp. Factory gauge is programmed to point at 50% from 130 - 240F. You'll want to know a more accurate value. Should be 180 - 200.

4. Did this missing coolant go into the oil?

5. Head gaskets are $300 parts, $200 machine shop, two weekends holding all manner of wrenches and cheater bars.

(oops - I fat fingered $2300)

 

The oil doesn't appear to be milky so I'm assuming the coolant leaked out onto the ground. I guess my next step is to fill it up and see where it goes. I was just not sure if I should put some of the off the shelf head gasket sealer in there and say a prayer that it may fix it....

I have a good scanner so I'll plug it in tomorrow and take it for a spin to see what happens. It should be fine to just fill it up with water, right? I expect it to all either leak out onto the ground or blow out the exhaust if it's getting into the cylinders.

 

Did I read you correctly? I'm hoping that is a typo...$2,300.00 for parts to do head gaskets??!! Surely you accidentally added a zero in there.

 

holy oops, it is $300, not 2300.

 

So I topped off the coolant and started it up. I kept my scanner plugged in and drove it around for a solid 30 minutes. The temperature fluctuated between 200-225 for the most part. It climbed up to 235 once but went back down quickly. I bled the coolant system three times but it's still sloshing and gurgling a little. Not sure if that affects the operating temperature?

It's starting right up, running excellent and strong and definitely no tapping or clicking or anything.

I'm not sure what's causing it to run hot. Could it be thermostat or something simple?

 

More purge of air, you do this by un-bolting the coolant jug, hold it higher with a bungee cord, and bleed it cold.

Depending on what is making the gurgle, it could be exhaust gas in coolant from a leaky head gasket. $50 ish chemical tester, does 15 tests, changes color from gas bubbles in coolant. Some parts stores loan them.

Thermostat could help, get a 180F one from Rovers North.

Radiator could be sludged, check for temp on fins top to bottom, if 10F difference then the lower rows are blocked up.

Electric fan should have come on at 212F. Siezed, fuse, or relay.

 

Electric fan is definitely working...comes on around 212.

I haven't gotten the test kit but it seems like a never ending battle to try to purge the air. So I'm worried that means exhaust into the coolant.

Some times it seems like if I rev the engine, I can get the temp to drop.

I was driving it the other day with my scanner plugged in to monitor everything and when I took it on the interstate it was cruising right at 195. I drove it up a few miles and it stayed steady. But as soon as I pulled off and started driving 35 ish in stop and go, the temp shot up fast to dangerous levels.

 

have you checked the clutch fan?

 

yeah, rolling down the highway a 5280 feet per minute air flow (60 mph) fan not important. Drop to mall crawl speed or burger wait fer-us-to-make-it-wrong lane, and clutch very important. When warm, engine off, spin, release, and it should coast to a stop in under 1 revolution. If freewheels, silicone inside has been lost, replace. $60 ish Chevy 2000 Express van, 4.3 iter, non-AC, bolts up to water pump. Your fan will need mount holes enlarged slightly.

But if fan clutch good, could be radiator half full of sludge. Temps on fins top to bottom should be under 10F difference. Cooler on bottom indicates low flow has begun, flush not real practical on D2 rads.