What i have is a locked and closed driver door (left) all other doors work fine. The Key does not work in the driver door. My impression is that key entry is a mechanical linking only. So im guessing i have a couple issues with the door locking unit.
With the door closed and locked accessing the lock motor is very limited. Did get the inside door panel open enough to see that access is not so good. Cant access the wiring under the door sill. It does seem that the inside and outside door opening latches are disengaged within the door locking motor (M236). With that it has lead me to a single wire G and potentially the relay R262 in the in the P101 CJB. I still have a few questions that being; Is the P101 behind the glove box on the right side? Am i somewhat accurate in the system operation information? Are my equipment numbers right like the wire number, relay numbers. I need a little assurance from some of you Gurus. After looking at the CJB P101 behind the glove box the relay layout is not figuring to what i see from the diagrams. Dont know if i have the right diagrams. Did try to get diagrams from cubby, but the links did not work. Even with the issues that i have had with my past DiscoII and now the LR3 i still love the Land Rover Rigs. Thankyou for this cool web site and to the smart Land Rover members.

Vinny 2005 LR3 just a couple weeks old to me. Been out off roading gained a few brush scratches adding character. Tore up the running board a little but was able to fix It.

 

Need to add that the Key fob and the central lock buttons work on all other doors.
i do hear a little mechanical action in the driver door when the above buttons are pushes.
im guessing that is the supper lock function.

Vinny

 

Update to the locked and closed Driver door on the LR3...
It's still locked and closed, but was able to check the lock motor function by pulsing voltage to the lock motors from the P101. As mentioned in the other post (Thanks to the knowledgeable members who share along with promoting the passion for these sometime obstinate rigs). I was able to cycle all the other door locks but not the driver door. So that was done by disconnecting the Main battery, disconnecting the connector (C0585) on the p101 (behind the glove Box) I would be amiss if I did not mention the impressive quality of connectors and interior parts. So onward with the voltage probe by reading the diagrams I could see two motors in the driver door. A superlock mo288 and a lock M290, there is a common wire in between both so with a motor cycle battery and a set up some pins and jumpers was able to cycle the lock motor by reversing polarity, but not the supper lock motor (using the common wire for both motors). Just to check my methods I cycled the other door locks they worked. So the driver door is still locked and closed. Next was to take out the driver seat with the back passenger door open there was reasonable access to the back two bolts, and reclining the driver seat all the way for better access to the front two bolts and the connectors (take a picture there are 6 or 7 little connectors in the back side of the block that need to be unlocked and pulled) under the front of the seat. Removing the metal kick plate (4 philip screws) gave good access) . Had to reconnect the p101 connector (C0585) and then hooked up the main battery. That was to check to see if things still worked after the P101/c058 connector probing and reconnection, and to recline the seat for access then put it back to the upright position to move it into the back. I did leave the seat belt attached as it does not get in the way with the back seats folded down. The door panel, wow a lot of wires and connectors to unlock and disconnect. After pulling the eight screws and a few good tugs and a little prying the panel was almost free. I recommend finding a set of plastic/ nylon type pry bar type tools for the interior parts. To gain a little more room to free the door panel there is a closeout panel under the steering wheel ( the one with louvered vent. Pull the quick retained zuse type fasteners at the bottom. Then pull free the panel from the top side. Next give a pull on the close out panel that has the vent and the headlight switch from the bottom and let it hang free. Now make sure that you have disconnected the tweeter and all other wires. Open the door panel from the rearward side that is away from the door to free the plastic plunge pins as much as practical without damaging the speaker that is still mounted on the door also the tweeter mounted on the door panel (card). The sound system is amazing it would be a shame to damage it. Lift the back end of the door panel up a little that will free with a little deformation to the little plastic plunge pins on the card they will need to replace. a few of those that’s no big deal. With everything free lift the front of the door panel with the back end going down. Don’t damage the speaker in the door or twist the tweeter off. The panel gets thinner towards the front bottom of the panel so then it will slip past the speaker. IT is now free, put it in the back or out of the way not to be damaged. The cost of that panel sold as an assembly around a grand and a half. So far that is a few hours work the first time around, the sorrow should I have to do this again. So the driver door is still closed and locked. Hook the window actuator and window switches back up. Might need them later.
So Now, to access the door lock motor. Note worthy is the cost of this repair should the dealer perform this task. The reported dealer cost minimal due to the clamed likely damage to the interior part (door panel) as stated by the Tec. plus Troubleshooting time… A lot! Likely a years worth of beer money, Don’t want to part with that kind of cash to get serviced to the extent of discomfort…
At this point there a few things I’ll do and look for. I think I need to check the wiring condition going into the door to the lock motor. These wires are under the door panel at the bottom side of the door which penetrates through a grommet into the lock motor. I have seen a funky splice with three black wires that look like grounds. Need to check how good that ground is via an ohm meter. 0 to ground is what I expect. We will see. Then to access the lock motors at this point you can’t see or touch nothing!
Need to go find out how to deal with the window actuator and the closeout panel it’s mounted on. To get real access to the lock motors. Please Feel free to offer tips if you know what should be done with the window actuator and or the magic latch on the lock motor to unlock the door. I see a big hammer and chisel in my future; I would kind of like to avoid that scenario. I guessing it would lead to swearing and some spilled blood. Ah but yes I will still have my Beer.

Past DiscoII owner and current LR3. And missing the driving.
Vinny

 

Its all working now. It was the door lock motor, there were no working latches that would unlock or open the door. Was able to center punch the motor then take out in pieces, then the door finally opened. To disconnect the window from the actuator. This was by pressing on the white tabs near the bottom of the glass. By sliding the access panel fore or aft with the window about three quarters down. Then you have great access but it is still a task to connect the cables. But it can be done. Thanks for the tips and insight to the rest of you LR freeks.