Hey guys so here is my problem I own a 2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged and I just started to have the following problems. Bare with me I broke up the description into two parts since I eventually got it to start and run but then had the same problem again and I know how dfficult it can be to diagnose like this.

Part I.
I started it cold yesterday and it ran fine as usual. I reversed out of my driveway and when I put the shifter in drive it acted like it was in neutral. I sat there for a minute and double checked to ensure it was in drive which it was. I then put it back into park when several faults started to pop up to include the following "Transmission fault","HDC fault", Parking brake release fault". It was still idling fine but now its stuck in park. I decided to shut it off and restart. As soon as I shut it off it would not turn over again, nor could I get it out of park to even push it off the road. The first thought was a low battery so I had a passing neighbor jump me off. The jump worked and it started so I put it into drive and back into my driveway I went. I waited 5 minutes and then reversed once again and the same thing happened when I put it back into drive. I left it for two hours and when I returned home It started up no problem only now the check engine light was on. I took it for a test drive and it was fine, it went into boost, and shifted smoothly. I decided at that time it was low battery so I parked it for the night and put the battery on a charge.

Part II.
I let the battery trickle charge overnight and when I woke up today my charger was flashing red which means a bad battery. I tried to start it anyway but the iginition just comes on along with all electronics and fault codes but it will not crank. There is an audible clicking noise in the glovebox every time I turn the key. ("relay or solenoid"?) I took the battery to advance auto and had it tested it said it was fine which I believe since it is not even a year old purchased it in Nov, 2014. So now the fact that all electronics still worked in the car makes sense its obviously not a battery problem. It is not a reverse light switch plus none of those issues had fault codes like mine.

 

Update:


I have had this intermittent issue which I thought I narrowed down to a corroded Integrated Transfer Case Module as others reported similar problems from water getting in behind the battery box. I removed it and cleaned it with electrical contact cleaner and it started and ran great for a week so I thought I had fixed the problem. This morning it started doing the same things will not start, flashes several faults, locks shifter in Park. As funny as this sounds The only issue I had not looked into is the Instrument panel and sure enough with the key turned to the start position I lightly tapped the dashboard and heard a click in the instrument panel and the truck started right up. I have been scouring the internet for ways to pin point the actual cause of the malfunctions but at this point it seems pretty clear that not only did I have a corroded Transfer case module, but my Instrument panel is also bad. Obviously some would be scared into thinking the faults are real which in some cases might be so, but when mine starts it runs perfectly fine so that rules out a bad transfer case. Any information posted here I am sure will help others who have this problem. My case in point remains though it is obvious this is due to a manufacturer error and I was literally stuck blocking traffic unable to get the truck into neutral to even get it off the road. This could have been a serious safety issue on a busy highway so hopefully they will recall this bad equipment before someone gets hurt.