Hi there everyone.

I was hoping someone could help me with some guidance to an issue I'm having.

I've just bought a 1998 Discovery V8 Estate. I only bought it for cheap, and all-in-all it seems to be in good condition and health. I love it!

The problem I'm having is a high RPM to acceleration whilst in drive. It feels like my manual did when the clutch was on its last legs. When I switch to using the manual gears there doesn't seem to be a problem.

Is this likely to be the automatic transmission? If not, what else could it be, and what sort of price am I looking at to getting it fixed? I really don't know too much about mechanics, unfortunately.

I live in the UK by the way.

Thanks in advance.

 

Dan Dan
Hola.

I have read your post.
A question with a question.
Is this slip akin to a slipping clutch on a manual in ALL gears?
Or is it localized to just one speed or regime on the upshift in the gears?

Since the whole operation of any regular auto transmission is dependent upon fluid level and quality in the unit (automatic gearbox--UK ingles term) what is the fluid level of the unit when running in park "P" and checked.
Upon dipping does the fluid smell "burnt" it will have an acrid smell.

If upon checking the fluid seems good the next step is to do a full stall test. This will check torque converter ability to develop torque and the forward speed "A" clutch to hold that torque and stall the engine to a fixed revolution count at about 2300 r/m with the gas pedal floored.

To conduct the test get the engine/powerpack warm.
Apply the park brake situating the car in a position where should it lurch it won't crash into anything.
Select "D" and since your foot will be in the brake--leave it there but apply heavy pressure like an emergency brake application.
Now floor the gas pedal --if the revs do not soar above 2300 to 2500 then the torque and the A clutch can be assumed to be working and holding!

Now a caution only do this for about 5 seconds duration! The heat generated is not good for auto transmissions .
Now let it run for a few minutes in N then repeat with the selector in R.

This will check the reverse clutch in the running pack and if the engine wont rev above the 2300 to 2500 regime than that clutch is good.
Now a road test and start in 1st position and drive up a steep hill or gently apply the brake does the internal clutch slip? OR "flare" as its called in the trade?
Now move the shifter to the next speed and repeat ending up in D and overdrive which will come in at about 2500 r/m at about 70mph and a distinct drop of about 200 r/m will be observed on the rev counter when O/D engages.

Try this all out and see what you find out!

By the way this test is good for most systems but do not try this brake and drive down the road technique road test on Mercedes platforms. The brake torque monitoring application of a brake when under way on MB units will cause the engine to partially shut down ruining the test.
Its a unique safety feature introduced by MB years ago and no recently copied by Toyota on the Prius and reported run aways.

Best of luck
T/V

 

i would start by have the fluid and filter changed

 

That's and interesting comment because it raises lots of questions and comments about maintenance and schedules.

Generally speaking recommended auto transmission servicing gets neglected and doing a fluid change and filter service between 40 to 60K on transmissions using a regular mineral based fluid; like your D1, which is the topic of this forum conversation. Frankly in most cases it never gets done or adhered to!

Now trans fluid is alkaline in composition and it turns acidic over time/usage.
The change is accelerated if the operating temperature is peaking over 200 dgf for any extended period . Hence most manufacturers using mineral based fluid recommend these service intervals as mentioned.
The fundamental reason is that as the fluid ages and gets progressively more acidic it hardens the seals in the clutches and creates varnishes and gums deposits.

Over time and neglect the transmission progressively shows shifting shortcomings and sometimes slip. (Flare) or slip and grab (flare and shock shifting).

Its at this time the owner suddenly decides to have it serviced because something is going wrong. This is often the point where its too late damage has been done!
Changing the fluid on a neglected transmission is asking for trouble since fresh fluid "shocks" the transmission and the seals suddenly start to change from hard to soft and since its is a very detergent liquid, gums and varnishes get stripped off and start sticking and plugging up things like governor valves resulting in no shift conditions until the transmission gets warm.

Now for the repair shop here comes the possible nightmare. Onto the forecourt rolls in a D1 and the customer wants a transmission service. In most cases these days a shop will refuse to service the unit without an extensive road test & diagnostics . Some will outright refuse to touch it without a service history fearing a come back and blame for trying to right many miles/years of neglect.

The rule of thumb is to conduct a full drive ability analysis before doing anything. That has been the maxim for 500 years now; basically do a stall and shift tests before laying a hand on it!

I suspect the originator of this post has bought a Disco with a transmission problem in the making; the previous owner seeing a problem coming promptly got rid of the thing.
Doing a fluid and filter change might delay the onset of the inevitable --transmission overhaul.
T/V

 

if your here you have a problem and have nothing but $50 to lose, before you go condemning the transmission.

ps. you are only changing about 1/3 of your fluid as the converter holds the bulk of the fluid.
what some people have found is change the fluid and filter once, then just change the fluid until it starts looking nice and bright pink, then replace the filter again.

 

How many miles on the tranny, what color is the fluid, clear red or brown and does it have a burned smell to it?
Back to your question, atf won't cause a whistle sound. What else have you checked?

 

Wow Cheap job!
To service a D1, the job requires drop the Y pipe, move the X member then drop the pan to clean/change the filter.

Using even a cheap Chinese/Tawian filter kit is about $20 a genuine
LR one is closer to $80. Then it all has to be put back together and tested even if you forego the cooler and torque drain! Which would be folly as it could be heavily contaminated with questionable fluid!
Pro book time is close to 2.5 hours best, so a lot more to effect a trans service on this model and two exhaust flange gaskets if you needed them are $15.30 a pop.

A simple service on a D1 /Classic Range Rover is a bit mkore involved and I haven't mentioned KD cable adjustment settings nor shifter cable settings which form part of that service schedule. Both the latter items control and affect shifting quality and activity.
T/V

 

i stand corrected i forgot that a D1 is the same as a RRC.