Brake drag
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Overlanding
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 16
Likes: 1
one of my suspicions were ,,,that you got the wrong model rotor disc... i had this issue before where they sold us a thicker rotor ...( don't know from which model ) so then you have no release clearance
...when the callipers move back( well the really cant in your case ) .. so technically your brakes are always activated...
when you were replacing at the re mounting stage , did you have to force the callipers on to the rotor ??? it was suppose to go in freely and bolted in comfortably ... i would swap the rotors back first ....
...when the callipers move back( well the really cant in your case ) .. so technically your brakes are always activated...
when you were replacing at the re mounting stage , did you have to force the callipers on to the rotor ??? it was suppose to go in freely and bolted in comfortably ... i would swap the rotors back first ....
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Overlanding
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 16
Likes: 1
It feels way better with transfer case in N. Duh! Still not sure all's right, but there is some spin.
how much have you driven it since these changes ? drive it for some miles and use the brake as much as you can )and see if the drag is worst the same or less ...its suppose to free up if nothing is wrong otherwise after this .. then we'll go again ..
'The callipers went on easily and there was play until I first depressed pedal.' - this part says something is still not releasing somewhere ....ahhhh but where ? its tough when you (I) cant and have a hands on approach...literally...
'The callipers went on easily and there was play until I first depressed pedal.' - this part says something is still not releasing somewhere ....ahhhh but where ? its tough when you (I) cant and have a hands on approach...literally...
Last edited by justryan; May 21, 2015 at 12:07 PM.
Thread Starter
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Overlanding
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 16
Likes: 1
how much have you driven it since these changes ? drive it for some miles and use the brake as much as you can )and see if the drag is worst the same or less ...its suppose to free up if nothing is wrong otherwise after this .. then we'll go again ..
'The callipers went on easily and there was play until I first depressed pedal.' - this part says something is still not releasing somewhere ....ahhhh but where ? its tough when you (I) cant and have a hands on approach...literally...
'The callipers went on easily and there was play until I first depressed pedal.' - this part says something is still not releasing somewhere ....ahhhh but where ? its tough when you (I) cant and have a hands on approach...literally...
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 942
Likes: 29
From: St. James, NY
Have you tried removing the caliper and pushing the piston back into the caliper? If the piston is hanging up, that would cause drag.
Also, After a short test drive, measure the temp of the rotors. That will tell you which one(s) are hanging up/ not releasing.
Also, After a short test drive, measure the temp of the rotors. That will tell you which one(s) are hanging up/ not releasing.
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Overlanding
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 16
Likes: 1
Test drive and equally hot, though not smelling anymore.
At this point, with every one's input, I'm thinking that the tightness is normal with the new bearings and brakes combined.
I thank everyone much and I am still open to further dialoge if anyone has more thoughts.
Three Wheeling
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 65
Likes: 1
Master cylinder
Adjust the pushrod that connects the brake pedal to the brake master cylinder. It's the small rod in the middle of the booster. My guess is it applies just enough pressure to the plunger so when things hear up your brakes drag.
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Overlanding
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 16
Likes: 1
Awesome- I'll do it
