Dear Enthusiasts.
On Saturday we decided to give our more or less stock standard Disco II, TD5, 2004 model a major service.
I started draining coolant, replaced all water hoses, fan belt and tensioners, Camshaft cover gasket, etc. I then progressed changing the oils (Engine, diffs, transfer case), both oil filters, fuel filter. We also removed the EGR-unit and replaced it with a much neater free-flowing pipe. We removed the solenoids and blocked off the vacuumtubes.
We started the car and found a exhaust leak on the blanking washer that came with the kit. We made up a copper washer and all went well. I've got a Rovacraft diagnostic tool and it didn't show any logged DTC's.
Sorry for the long introduction but I think it might become important.
Then we progressed doing the auto gearbox oil change. First we drained the oil (It was rather black and off but not unusual in appearance). Once I pumped in the fresh ATF until it was overflowing we then lowered the hoist, started the car, went through the gears and left the car running. We brought the car back up whilst it ws idling and continued filling the gearbox until it just started overflowing.
But then, all at a sudden, the engine made a bit of a rumble (Like running on choke) and then stalled. Hmmm, that was unusual. Lowered the car, tried to start it: It cranked but won't fire! After the third attempt, all at a sudden, the hazard lights came on and stayed on without pushing a button.
Ahaa! I thought this was related to the inertia switch (They are a bit dicky). Removed the inertia switch, checked and cleaned contacts, even bridged the switch but same result: Cranking but no firing, although it gave us the impression it was about to fire. As we replaced the fuel filter that morning, I thought it might have been air in the system. So, we went through the cycling process (5 times throttle down)(Multiple times). Still no result. Maybe there was something wrong with the new filter, so we put the old filter back in place but same result.
Maybe the fuel pump had died? Well we could hear it running and there was pressure (Holding the thumb on the drainhole of the fuelfilter). I even compared it with an other identical and functioning discovery; same result.
So: Inertia switch OK, Fuel pump and filter OK.
We decided then to try some Start-You-Bastard spray. During cranking it fired up briefly. So, it seems there is no fuel going into the combustion chambers. I have to remind you the car was perfectly fine until we started replacing the oil in the auto gearbox.
The battery became weak and also the M+S lights started flashing, so we pulled out a new 900 CCA battery from the other Discovery, still same result.
I was running out of options now. Could it be the notorious XYZ-gearbox switch? Removed it, opened it up, cleaned it, checked all tracks on continuity, etc, put it back together but same result.
So, when we are going through the gears: P, R, N are all good but the moment we hit Drive or the lower gears it only shows a flashing "D".
Maybe there was no communication between BCU and auto gearbox. So, we locked the doors by plip, opened the doors by key multiple times. During the process sometimes the car alarm went off but could be silenced by the plip. We then disconnected the battery for more then an hour (Whilst we were surfing the Land Rover forums for more ideas). Still no improvement.
We backtraced every possibility of the stuff we had done so far and replaced the new parts with the old parts again, but still no result.
We also swapped identical relais around, checked all fuses for continuity.
My diagnostic tool hasn't shown no DTC's logged in the ECM, BCU nor SLABS. After two days of trying every scenario we are coming to the point where we need some advice.
By the way, the fuel pump has been replaced a couple of months ago.
How is it possible that during changing the gearbox oil all at a sudden the engine dies and won't start again???
We are truely puzzled and every bit of advice is very welcome. Many thanks in advance.

 

A few questions for you...

1) Who's 'we'? Do you have a mouse in your pocket?

2) I find it interesting that you joined in July of 2012 but this is your first post. Did your mouse sign up under a different name?

3) What is 'start-you-bastard' spray and where can I purchase it?

4) What do you mean by 'the fuel was replaced a couple of months ago?' I have to replace my fuel every few days.

I don't know about you but my flabber is still gasted.

Stories like these are the VERY reason why I don't go poking around where I shouldn't....

 

Dear Landlover_1,
Normally I shouldn't respond to remarks un-related to the topic but in this case I will make an exception. There are two reasons to my posting:
A- I've got a problem and I'm looking for a solution. I admit I am not perfect and therefore I look for help.
B- By posting this on a forum this information could be useful to everybosy else experiencing similar problems. So, in my case I take and I'm glad to share.

To answer your first question. I use the word "we" as we are a plural of persons. I don't need to divulge personal details on a public forum. If you are indeed so interested who "we" is then send me a PM and I will respond to it.
I think this situation would apply to most people as a car might have multiple owners. (Eg. I wouldn't say "my car" if I were married as my wife would be as much of an owner as I am and I would call it "our car").

I find it amazing that you take the effort to go through all the history and start nitpicking on every detail non-related to the original posting. It would be much more beneficial if you would contribute to the solution instead of filling up cyberspace with non-related dribble. As you must know I've got a perfect reason for this: I joined up on the forum a couple of months before I left for Antarctica. I have stayed there for more then 1.5 years and during that time there was no need to ask questions about my Land Rover as I didn't have the possibility to drive it. You see! there is always a reason. Maybe I should dig in your forum history as well to find out what you have been up to but to be honest I cannot be bothered as it doesn't sort out my problem.

Start-You-Bastard is a trade name of ether in a can that can be used to facilitate starting under cold conditions. It can be purchased in every good automotive parts store.

OK, that is most sensible question/remark so far. It is a typo made on my behalf. It should have read "Fuel pump" instead of fuel. Thanks for bringing that up. I don't really care how many times you replace your fuel but your comment creates the impression you are trying to make a fool out of me. Every normal person would be able to read in between the lines and would know that there was some sort of mistake in that sentence.

"Stories like these are the VERY reason why I don't go poking around where I shouldn't.... "

What??? But you happy take the time to dig in everybodies history and dribble your bile wherever you can.

My message to you is: If you visit this forum to start nitpicking and having a laugh with other people's problem please do us a favor and stay away from this site. I'm sure there are more applicable website that would satisfy your needs. Maybe try HugeDomains.com - GrumpyOldBastards.com is for Sale (Grumpy Old Bastards) , I 'm sure you will fit it in straight away.

 

re: By the way, the fuel pump has been replaced a couple of months ago.

pump is the important word...

Many join, no posts, or just lurk. Perhaps because they have yet to develop the Internet required rhino hide.

I'd look for a connector not seated properly. you have done a great deal of work and perhaps one has become unseated. Or a ground wire like from tranny to frame or engine to frame. These can be duplicated with a battery jumper cable from negative terminal to the various suspect items.

And to both of you, keep contributing.

As for start-u-bastid spray, down South it used to be called start-hear-me! spray, which was shortened to "start-hemi" by many Dodge and Jeep owners.

 

..everyone knows that I contribute 'non-related dribble'. I'm not above stating facts. And please don't go getting your undies in a bunch.. I felt as if you were sinking with your ship so I posted something to attract a little attention to your 'issue(s)'. It was sad to see your frown face sitting there all by its lonesome with no one responding. Hopefully you find a solution soon.

Really.. I'm impressed that you can do what you do... like I stated previously, I'm 'afraid' of tinkering where I shouldn't be...

hugs and kisses...

R.

 

That puts it in a different light. Thanks.
Still no solution to the problem yet. The moment I find out I will post it here.

 

If the fuel pump is running and you have the proper pressure, then there is air in the fuel system. Consult the RAVE for the proper bleeding procedure.
Some diesels are hard to bleed, some are easy. Just keep doing the bleed procedure over and over until it cranks, you'll get there eventually.

 

Caballeros por favor!
Carajo!
Today, greetings from Bolivia
Gentlemen please!
Now reading the opening text I suspect IRAT you are from the UK judging by the drift of your text syntax; so much different than the American English we often see on these forums. Correct me if I am wrong!
I suppose a bit like Spaniards and South Americans!

So en breve having read the text I have concluded you have a Landrover with a TD5 oil engine (CI diesel) which is giving you trouble.

Firstly this engine is about as rare as Hmm --well honest men in Congress in the Washington DC USA so it unlikely you will get much of a response.
Now the engine FIE system has the mark of Caterpillar about it, some say it was designed by them.
Here are some views of the open engine and fuel system to view:-
https://www.google.com/search?q=land+rover+td5+fuel+injection+system&tbm= isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=ASeNU97aKcaHogTExoL gCg&ved=0CCgQsAQ&biw=1288&bih=697#facrc=_&imgdii=D ZNSSbToklB4YM%3A%3BL3QI-zY6J-Y3UM%3BDZNSSbToklB4YM%3A&imgrc=DZNSSbToklB4YM%253A %3Bcs7tuNI0z7KD8M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%2
52Fwww.landroverclub.net%252FClub%252FDisco_new%25 2FTd5_cut.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.landrovercl ub.net%252FClub%252FHTML%252FTd5engine.htm%3B300%3 B277

So progressing
You changed the filters! OK
Did you pre-fill them with oils and fuels prior to install? This is a must!

Now question what is all this EGR stuff all about?
What was the reason for changing it?
Solenoids??? --What solenoids???

Yes hazard lights --if the inertia switch gets bumped it will disconnect and flash the hazards.
I translate you tried "easy start"!
Refrain from using ether on a modern diesel you can kill it--- seriously!

Now with your scanner are you sure you have communication?
To locate the problem you need to get some live data to see if you have glow plug operation (for by now a cold start).
Then any injector activity. In its absence------

I would check for a daisy chain positive continuity at the injector and see if the injector driver negative switching is working. Its feasible that you have blown some circuits searching for the no start issue and gone down a tangent. You need to get back on track and concentrate on why there Is no FI. In any case a scanner that has live data a read outs might be your first step in finding the issue.
However the changing of EGRs and solenoids makes me "shiver me timbers"!
A stuck open or malfunctioning EGR will often result in a no start and rough running before it does Pfutt!
Simply go over what you have been doing and see if something like a vital plug socket has been left open and that you have good circuit threshold voltages--vital for modern engines.
Sorry for questions with questions
Best of luck
T/V

 

Hi Irat,

I am a TD5 owner and have a few other diesels. I have been trying to figure your problem and come to the conclusion it's in the blanking of the EGR valve. Somewhere along the line it appears the ECU/BCU have become disrupted. When fitting the EGR blanking kit there are other items require terminating and also solenoids to disable which I'm assume have been done. I cannot imagine what else you have done during your service to disrupt the engine control or damage the engine. I'll keep chewing it over in my head and hopefully the answer might appear. IMO if I were you I'd retrace the steps of fitting the EGR blanking kit and ensure you have followed and interpeted the instructions correctly as at the moment I think that is where your problem lies.

As tuercas viejas states, never use Easy Start on modern engines it's OK for older (antique) stuff but once used you'll find it's like a drug habit, it'll become dependent and won't start without it.

 

Just another thought, put this under the vehicle type forum i.e. if it's a D2 put the problem there or under Defender or whatever as it has more profile and readers. Also put it on some Australian and UK forums as they are also big into diesels whereas the TD5 engine in the US is as rare as 'rocking horse poo'.