Chapter 1 - Behind the grille

Between the AC condenser and the main radiator (D1) or transmission / engine oil coolers (D2) you can have a buildup of leaves and mud. This blocks air flow, so clean it out, as well as the fins themselves. Do not use a pressure washer, too strong for delicate thin metal. Picture of radiator fuzz.

The air conditioning condenser has an electric "boost" fan (on some models there are two fans). If the fan does not operate, truck will get hot in slow traffic and idle when AC is on. Also head pressure of AC compressor will suffer, as will cooling inside truck.

You can spin fan blades with screw driver. If hard to spin, the motor is freezing up, time to replace. Can also just be a blown fuse, but normally that indicates motor is starting to lock up and draw too much current.

For a D2 - NAPA # BK6552105, Four Season 35110, Siemens PM9116, AC Delco 1580341. See https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ghlight=dremel - requires a little sanding. Some aftermarket generic fans can be made to fit, one owner found they did not move enough air and still had overheating, solved wth motor above.

For a D1 - Same as Toyotta Corolla 1993 (Denso pancake motor) (uses 2)

For all motor(s) the polarity is important, air should be sucked in the grille and blown toward engine, test with paper towel. Motors come on when ever AC is on (D1) and when AC is on and certain temperatures are met (D2), plus other conditions.

Electic fan(s) run under certain conditions:

For a D1: When AC and interior fan are "ON", or when coolant hits 212F (AC off or on), or when truck is switched off and conditions under the hood require extra cool down for 10 minutes.

For a D2: Electric cooling fan switching points:




Chapter 2 - https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...ter-2-a-51022/