Cylinders Not Firing
#1
05-12-2016, 10:07 AM
Cylinders Not Firing
I have 2 cylinders not firing in my rover, its a 99 D2. I have replaced all of the plug wires and all of the spark plugs are functioning correctly. The only thing that i think could cause this problem is the coil packs. Would replacing them fixi the problem. Or am i overlookong something?
#2
05-12-2016, 10:32 AM
Coils are the only thing you can think of that would cause it? Think again, and search this forum for threads on misfires. You'll find dozens of possible causes.
That said, start by checking for vacuum leaks and replace the coil packs (probably have to remove the upper intake manifold to do this).
That said, start by checking for vacuum leaks and replace the coil packs (probably have to remove the upper intake manifold to do this).
#3
05-12-2016, 12:32 PM
Three Wheeling
He should probably qualify this post by saying he is only 15 years old and is learning. This is his first vehicle and a vacuum line would not cause "dead wires" from coil on #6 and #8. Therefore, the only thing he could think of is coil pack. Also, he failed to mention that the Indy that replaced his head gaskets, left the coil packs loose on top of the engine to flop around.
#4
05-12-2016, 02:49 PM
That's a lot of extra info right there!
The coil packs absolutely need to be bolted down on their mounting bracket on the back of the engine. If the shop that did the gaskets left the coils flopping around, I suspect that they might not have reattached the ground wire(s) to the back of the head(s) either. Since the coils are accessible right now, put some new ones on there (eBay ones are fine; no need for OEM).
FYI, when reinstalling the bracket with the coils on it on the back of the engine, I found it much easier to put the coil bracket in place and start the two lower bolts a turn or two. The bracket will have enough play for you to be able to lay it back almost against the firewall. That way you can slip the back edge of the upper intake into place and only have to wrestle with getting the two upper coil bracket bolts into their holes.
The coil packs absolutely need to be bolted down on their mounting bracket on the back of the engine. If the shop that did the gaskets left the coils flopping around, I suspect that they might not have reattached the ground wire(s) to the back of the head(s) either. Since the coils are accessible right now, put some new ones on there (eBay ones are fine; no need for OEM).
FYI, when reinstalling the bracket with the coils on it on the back of the engine, I found it much easier to put the coil bracket in place and start the two lower bolts a turn or two. The bracket will have enough play for you to be able to lay it back almost against the firewall. That way you can slip the back edge of the upper intake into place and only have to wrestle with getting the two upper coil bracket bolts into their holes.
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lr3_ovrlnd3r (05-12-2016)
#5
05-13-2016, 06:39 AM
Baja
#6  are on two different coils iirc.
That's a lot of extra info right there!
The coil packs absolutely need to be bolted down on their mounting bracket on the back of the engine. If the shop that did the gaskets left the coils flopping around, I suspect that they might not have reattached the ground wire(s) to the back of the head(s) either. Since the coils are accessible right now, put some new ones on there (eBay ones are fine; no need for OEM).
FYI, when reinstalling the bracket with the coils on it on the back of the engine, I found it much easier to put the coil bracket in place and start the two lower bolts a turn or two. The bracket will have enough play for you to be able to lay it back almost against the firewall. That way you can slip the back edge of the upper intake into place and only have to wrestle with getting the two upper coil bracket bolts into their holes.
The coil packs absolutely need to be bolted down on their mounting bracket on the back of the engine. If the shop that did the gaskets left the coils flopping around, I suspect that they might not have reattached the ground wire(s) to the back of the head(s) either. Since the coils are accessible right now, put some new ones on there (eBay ones are fine; no need for OEM).
FYI, when reinstalling the bracket with the coils on it on the back of the engine, I found it much easier to put the coil bracket in place and start the two lower bolts a turn or two. The bracket will have enough play for you to be able to lay it back almost against the firewall. That way you can slip the back edge of the upper intake into place and only have to wrestle with getting the two upper coil bracket bolts into their holes.
#6
05-13-2016, 07:52 AM
I would try the cheap stuff first. I do, all of the time. Haha.
After checking for spark, which you have done, look for cracks in lines and listen for hissing (vacuum leaks), then unplug your MAF. You can drive without it. It will be a little sluggish. But if you reset your codes and don't have misfires without the MAF connected it could be the MAF that is the culprit.
Which cylinders are misfiring?
After checking for spark, which you have done, look for cracks in lines and listen for hissing (vacuum leaks), then unplug your MAF. You can drive without it. It will be a little sluggish. But if you reset your codes and don't have misfires without the MAF connected it could be the MAF that is the culprit.
Which cylinders are misfiring?
#7
05-13-2016, 08:29 AM
Three Wheeling
#6 and #8 wires are dead straight from the coil packs. Yes 6 and 8 are on different coils. I put a tester on them and the #6 and #8 are not firing from packs at all, I have spark from all other cylinders. leaking vacuum lines and MAF should not create this problem of no fire from coil pack should it? Especially since the packs bounced around on the top of the block like freaking basket ball for 2 solid weeks before I found it. Ran like a top until it didn't. Just received coil packs and it won't hurt anything to replace them anyway so process of elimination I suppose. The kid is getting a priceless education. I did speak with Atlantic British and they said they were fairly certain based on my description that it was coil packs.
Now the trick is....can I get the packs out without taking upper intake off? hmmm. Well at least I don't have SAI to contend with, so we'll see.
Now the trick is....can I get the packs out without taking upper intake off? hmmm. Well at least I don't have SAI to contend with, so we'll see.
Last edited by lr3_ovrlnd3r; 05-13-2016 at 08:33 AM.
#8
05-13-2016, 08:36 AM
Baja
Pull the upper it only takes a short time.just remove the 10 or so bolts and move it out of the way no need to completely remove it
#6 and #8 wires are dead straight from the coil packs. Yes 6 and 8 are on different coils. I put a tester on them and the #6 and #8 are not firing from packs at all, I have spark from all other cylinders. leaking vacuum lines and MAF should not create this problem of no fire from coil pack should it? Especially since the packs bounced around on the top of the block like freaking basket ball for 2 solid weeks before I found it. Ran like a top until it didn't. Just received coil packs and it won't hurt anything to replace them anyway so process of elimination I suppose. The kid is getting a priceless education. I did speak with Atlantic British and they said they were fairly certain based on my description that it was coil packs.
Now the trick is....can I get the packs out without taking upper intake off? hmmm. Well at least I don't have SAI to contend with, so we'll see.
Now the trick is....can I get the packs out without taking upper intake off? hmmm. Well at least I don't have SAI to contend with, so we'll see.
#9
05-13-2016, 08:45 AM
Ah I missed part of this thread. Danged mobile app!
You can reportedly remove the coils by sliding them behind the passenger intake to the passenger side after removing the bolts, connectors, and plug wires. But as Dro said, it is FAR easier to just remove the intake (20 min. with a couple of sockets and basic tools).
You can reportedly remove the coils by sliding them behind the passenger intake to the passenger side after removing the bolts, connectors, and plug wires. But as Dro said, it is FAR easier to just remove the intake (20 min. with a couple of sockets and basic tools).
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