I have a 2001 D2.

Currently there is dex cool leaking out from the front of the timing chain cover.

What parts are needed to do the change and what process should I take?

I believe I have to take the oil pan off, and the front cover of course, but what else is involved?

Rover has 126xxx on it and have been thinking I should just do the timing chain as well since I have it all off. Is this a good idea? What are some other things I should look into changing since I will have it broken down this far?

Is there any chance the block is cracked? Could the timing cover be worn from a bad chain to the point of me needing a new cover?

 

1. Read up on it in the RAVE. Have to get that pulley off, 185 foot pounds, several techniques.

2. You'll do front crank oil seal by default.

3. New water pump, new oil pump (more than several failures and cracked pumps reported), timing chain. Might need new fan clutch, does it free wheel when warmed up?

4. Read recent posts on front cover, several have just posted comments and fresh pix. One in particular about what was thought to be a hairline crack in cover, but turned out to be a line from the factory process..

5. Get rid of dex cool. Makes mud. Don't put in coolant system stopz leekz.

 

So also add an oil pump kit, not a complete cover, to your list and you will have a much happier engine.

 

Are you sure its the timing cover and not the front of the head gasket? Seen a few timing covers get misdiagnosed that way.

 

Hey Savannah, I've got a 04 Discovery with about 90k on it. Is Dex-Cool bad for it as well? If so, whats my alternative?

 

Dex Cool is bad for anything, because users are sold on it being a long life coolant. So they leave it in. And along the way, maybe it gets topped up with other formula coolant. The result either way is sludge. If you never change coolant you'll get some sludge as well, it just won't be as orange colored. Just Google "dex cool sludge", or look on Google images for same. You'll also find posts on other sites of people who change Dex Cool frequently and have no problems.

Use commercial (not home brew) radiator flush, keep flushing until water comes out clear, may take several tries. Refill with green or yellow coolant and distilled water. Brands include Peak.

 

Well I tackled the job...

Went well.

I took a little longer then a Rover tech would but I might have done more then a rover tech...Idk...

Currently I have NO drips. Everything seems to be pretty solid.


Removed front timing cover, oil pan, etc...

Cleaned the oil pan VERY well. The thing looked new when I was done with it.
Oil Pump gears NOT flawed, or cracked did not change at the moment.
Changed timing gears though. Chain was well worn, Rover has 126,xxx. Noticed an increase in acceleration, overall just seemed to run better. Gas mileage seems to be up as well.

Since your dexcool pictures scared the hell out of me, I decided to get the engine scope out and look in various cracks and crevices for built up dexcool, or any other issues. I didnt find a thing wrong with the radiator or any other parts I looked into...the radiator was spotless inside...as was the water pump.

Harmonic balancer was easy to get off, had air gun and a decent puller.

 

I would say great job! But since you didn't do a oil pump in 3 months if it fails you will be kicking yourself in the teeth saying why didn't I replace it... Good job though.

 

Yea I did think about that. Quite frankly, I didnt have the time to go and get one. I needed the Rover done this weekend so I didnt have time to wait for one in the mail. I also was quoted an astronomical price from the dealer so if it goes it goes.

This might sound retarded but I love taking apart cars...

What oils did you run in your Rover? Thickness of the oil might have caused the failure...going passed the 3000 mi mark as well. The thicker the oil, the harder the pump works. The dirtier the oil the harder the pump works.
The colder outside the harder the pump works.
The harder the pump works the sooner it breaks. JMHO

 

lots of people run 15rW40 Rotella, however the factory manual has a spec range for oil viscosity based on local temp. Here's a page on that. Diesel oil have more cleaning compounds, which is good to slowly remove previous owner gunk.