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Disco 2 bad rod bearing...

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Old 11-28-2016, 01:15 PM
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Default Disco 2 bad rod bearing...

Hey guys I finally bit the bullet and took my disco 2 to a shop to have them diagnose the engine knocking. They just called me back and told me that they are pretty sure that I have a bad bearing on one of the lower rods. They said that basically if I wan this engine knock to go away I need a new engine entirely. Well I am super broke right now and that's just not an option for me. However This car runs pretty good. They said my driveshaft and oil pump seem to be in good condition. And the transmission is working as it should as well. They told me that fixing my oil leaks would more than likely be a waste of money and to hold off on that and save up for a new engine instead. I feel uneasy about not at least changing the valve cover gaskets. This is a job I can probably do myself with some help from my dad or a friend. Ultimately I am thankful not to have a slipped sleeve or something but the whole "get a new engine" seems kind of outrageous to me. I mean I don't care about the noise that much. My wife hates driving the car because when she is stopped at a light or headed into the store people stop her and try to offer advice and or tell her the car needs oil (which it doesn't I check it daily) I think I'll save for one of those 8k re manufactured Bosch engines form Atlantic British. In the mean time I'm just gonna take it easy with the car and keep checking the oil and coolant levels. (No coolant leaks, found one on thanksgiving out of my res tank. But a little epoxy clay fixed that.)

What are your guys thoughts on my problem and what I should do? I would like to some day put a roof rack, ladder, and brush guard on this for when world war 3 happens and I gotta get the F outta dodge so to speak. I always thought this was a cool car and I love it soo much. I just don't wanna throw a rod next week on the way to work either.
 
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Old 11-28-2016, 08:15 PM
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It's fairly common to replace the rod and crank shells on any Rover engine to keep it from doing what yours has, toast itself. A bad bearing usually scars the crank which requires a regrind. Find another crank, contact Abran and see what he has. Look in the "For Sale" section for his contact info. See if he has one with low miles, then you could use standard shells otherwise it's oversized shells and it's not hard but hard for any noob to attain the size needed. That my friend is the cheapest method for getting around your "problem" and keeping a few Lincolns in your wallet too. Find out the cost from abran and save your pennies up.
 
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Old 11-28-2016, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ihscouts
It's fairly common to replace the rod and crank shells on any Rover engine to keep it from doing what yours has, toast itself. A bad bearing usually scars the crank which requires a regrind. Find another crank, contact Abran and see what he has. Look in the "For Sale" section for his contact info. See if he has one with low miles, then you could use standard shells otherwise it's oversized shells and it's not hard but hard for any noob to attain the size needed. That my friend is the cheapest method for getting around your "problem" and keeping a few Lincolns in your wallet too. Find out the cost from abran and save your pennies up.
Thanks ihscouts.

I have a few different options in cranks(stock with no scarring, polished, and ground -10.

pm me if you need anything.
 
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Old 11-29-2016, 02:59 AM
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I would pull the sump and check the journal, you might be lucky and get away with a linish and new shells.
 
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Old 11-29-2016, 09:59 AM
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^True. Even if there is some scarring, you might get by with just swapping bearings for a while.
 
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Old 11-29-2016, 05:45 PM
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Heres a video of the sound. Thank you guys for all the options. Any idea on average cost of those options you guys have just described?

 
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Old 11-30-2016, 09:39 PM
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If you do the work, a beating swap will cost you $100 to $150 in parts and fluid.

The job will take 3-7 hours depending on your/their skill.

replacing the crank is a slippery slope, where do you stop on replacing parts?
 
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Old 12-01-2016, 02:52 PM
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Buying an 03 was the slippery slope, look where that got em. Knock, knock, who's there, Land Rover engine parts!
 
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Old 12-01-2016, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ihscouts
It's fairly common to replace the rod and crank shells on any Rover engine to keep it from doing what yours has, toast itself. A bad bearing usually scars the crank which requires a regrind. Find another crank, contact Abran and see what he has. Look in the "For Sale" section for his contact info. See if he has one with low miles, then you could use standard shells otherwise it's oversized shells and it's not hard but hard for any noob to attain the size needed. That my friend is the cheapest method for getting around your "problem" and keeping a few Lincolns in your wallet too. Find out the cost from abran and save your pennies up.
X1, it won't get better the longer you drive it and sooner or later the rod will let go and penetrate the crankcase and then it's defo a new engine complete. Do yourself a favor and contact Abran or Paul Grant asap and don't drive the truck around anymore 'cos it sounds like a 'sick bunny'
 
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Old 12-01-2016, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ihscouts
It's fairly common to replace the rod and crank shells on any Rover engine to keep it from doing what yours has, toast itself. A bad bearing usually scars the crank which requires a regrind. Find another crank, contact Abran and see what he has. Look in the "For Sale" section for his contact info. See if he has one with low miles, then you could use standard shells otherwise it's oversized shells and it's not hard but hard for any noob to attain the size needed. That my friend is the cheapest method for getting around your "problem" and keeping a few Lincolns in your wallet too. Find out the cost from abran and save your pennies up.
X1, it won't get better the longer you drive it and sooner or later the rod will let go and penetrate the crankcase and then it is defo a new engine complete. Do yourself a favor and contact Abran or Paul Grant asap and don't drive the truck around anymore 'cos it sounds like a 'sick bunny'

PS. Invest in a cheapo mechanics stethoscope and listen to the sump and engine topside for the noise.
 


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