^....Damn....Mine runs rough in the rain too!
One thing I don't have is idle hands so that could be trouble......
I've owned Lucas Infused vehicles in the past, the wiring had it's problems back in the 70's but was easier to trouble shoot.

 

I remember reading a post few years back from a guy in like Alberta Canada, had all kinds of leaks and electrical issues on his new rover, dealer told him they are not designed for a wet climate WTF, even the lr3 connectors suck for water proof

Op, I suggest, remove net batt cable clean it good, clean where it attaches to frame and such, the add a cable from neg batt terminal to rad support, and on e from neg batt to engine think mine uses a a/c bolt

This solved my voltage issues, but the alt is probly also beat, at idle with no draw you should have about 14 volts

 

Thanks Tom.
I didn't even throw a meter on it as I was wanting it rebuilt knowing it was locked up when I bought it......Me and my needing to save things and adopt them......I'll never learn.
Good suggestions on the grounds.....I'll pick up some dielectric grease later when I pick up the alternator......and another jug of bourbon!
Oh, the diode mention......The repair guy said he'd make a point to check them out.

 

Cool, the grounds should keep you busy for a minute........ The wiring (and ETM diagrams) is very simple to figure out....there's just a bunch of it. ANY wire that is solid black is a ground wire, there that should lop off a few future cuss word sessions. Much easier than a BMW fo show. Plenty of help here with lots of hours of personal head banging to pass on one huge migraine to anyone who's game.

 

Check belt routing is correct, yes it can go on wrong,it will seem right but not be quite tight enough allowing the belt to slip, especially when cold

 

Try running a ground wire (10-12 gauge) from one of the alternator bolts (where it bolts to the bracket) to the negative battery terminal. If the flickering stops when you touch the wire to the negative terminal then it's a bad ground someplace. (Stating the obvious - don't touch the + terminal on the battery).

 

https://www.cubbyusercontent.com/pl/...0Discovery%20I

wmlj970e.pdf = workshop manual....aka: RAVE. The bible for these trucks

etlj970x.pdf - electrical troubleshooting manual.

hl01561n.pdf - owner's manual... highly optional


Also, put the model/year/mileage in your signature line so that we are all on the same page.

 

Well........I'll be dipped in dielectric grease........


Just installed the rebuilt alternator ($63.57) without a single cuss word and started the initial swiping of dielectric..........Fired it off, purrs like my wife used to at 750rpm idle with a sober tachometer....It's 'never' idled this nice, although it is a nice sunny day with low humidity......but wow.


Thank you to all that chimed in, I'm going to continue next with the grounds all around as suggested as well as follow up on other suggestions.


I thought the $63.57 was a little steep as the last rebuild he did for me was $45.00......But that's what I get for dropping my parts off first thing on a Monday morning to a guy who drag races Sunday afternoons.....probably had a bad weekend. While my starter 'seems' to be fine, I was going to have him rebuild it but he wouldn't offer an estimate (once bitten, twice shy) so I think I'll just get one off ebay and endure continuous & cussing in a single afternoon......


Lots to chase on this little Britt, thanks again for the push on the alt!!

 

You obviously know what we're talking about which makes giving suggestions that much easier for us. Good to hear the motors much happier with some juice now.

The price you paid was excellent by the way. DII starter same as D1.

 

I thought so much on the starters, but was maybe unsure as who knows, maybe the ll's had a connection for the heated seats on them?.......lol.


Two big thumbs up!