I recently bought a salvage LR3. First LR3, 3rd Rover. The engine did not start, battery dead and unable to read any codes. I get an ERR code. So I started with the battery. Tried to start it, nothing. Tried to read the codes, and, I still get an ERR code. Never seen that code before. I have checked the fuel pump, and fuses. I did not check the spark as I heard it is easy to damage the ECU if you pull a plug and try to start it. I was going to throw a crank position senor on but I am wondering if the engine ECU is bad. Is there a easy way to diagnose the ECU? Or did I just do that?

Thanks,

Ovide

 

What kind of damage was on the vehicle? Water? Do you get even a click when trying to start it?

 

I got a 2004 D2 water damaged and it runs great. My son drives that one.

This one appears to have broken the plastic fitting used to drain the air out of the cooling system. It is just under the cover toward the front. White residue remains on the front of the engine. It was never repaired so I assume insurance totaled the car afterwards.

Oh, the engine turns over great and it sputters a couple times. Just doesn't catch.

Thanks,

Ovide

 

Changed the sensor this AM and that wasn't it. Searched a few (Possibly a hundred) sites, for ecu issues and turns out that if your reader is unable to connect to the ecu, it is a good sign that it is gone.

So what I am wondering is if I can buy a new ecu, plug it in and start the truck or does it need to be programed? It seems that the anti theft system runs off a separate ecu from the engine.

 

Today I pulled the ecu on the LR3. I have not seen another post on it so I thought I would share. First, pull the battery. One should let it cycle down before doing so. 1 or 2 beers should do the trick. But if your pulling the ecu, then your truck probably doesn't run anyway. Next you need to remove the 4 wheel drive control module.

Here is how it is done.

1. Remove the 4 wheel drive control module cover. It is directly behind the battery, depress two clip on the upper right and left side to remove black plastic cover.
2. Remove the plugs connected to the module. There are 3. Remove the smallest one first working to the largest.
3. The module is held in place by two plastic retaining clips on the top left and right. lift pull and release the module.

Now for the ECU.

1. Remove the two plugs on top. Pretty standard for ecu's.
2. The ecu and black plastic cover (same thing that held the other ecu in place, are attached with 4 screws left and right toward the top. I was told these were Torx but mine were, in honor of the Queen, 7/32 English. It only takes a few turns for each, they don't need to be removed. Cover and ecu can now be removed.

30 minutes once started.

 

You do have the LR3 shop manual? It is a free download in links below.

 

I used TOPIx, bought an hour to download the steps. I saw the Disco's but not the LR3 on this forum. I did not know they were available.

Thanks,

Ovide

 

Just wondering is it a black lr3.
Very dirty inside
I looked at one in Alexandria Virgina
The DEA had It for 1 year then sold it they where giving it back to the bank but it would not start needed a engine ECU they jumped it with a 24 volt battery pack fried the thing if this helps

 

Nope this one is White. The ECU's are a one time program units. I found a place called Miami British they advertise them at $600 but they are out of stock. The cheapest other place I found was 1,300 including shipping so I am not sure what to think of this place. Figure I'll give them a call Monday to ask.

 

The land Rover is fixed and working great. So I learned a few things that I would like to share in case someone searches on this topic. the LR3 is the first rover to have this level of complexity and there is not much helpful information on this subject yet.

1. Used ECU, ECM's CANNOT be used in the LR3. They are one time use only. DO NOT buy a used ECU on Ebay. I spoke to the good folks at roverlandparts.com, they will not sell used LR3 ECU because they will not work. I am returning one I bought from Tom's foreign auto parts on ebay. I informed them of the above a week ago. As of today, he and many others are still selling them.

2. Autologic and T-4's are capable of programming the ECU. The unit that will work to program the ecu will vary by year. If the shop you called does not know or understand this, then move on. Of course any dealership can do this as well. They will most likely want you to buy one from them.

3. In most cases, your ECU cannot be fixed. If the main CPU goes out in the ECU, a repair shop can do nothing for you. They can only perform simple tests on the resistors and capacitors or run jumpers on a burn out board sections, etc.

4. Local ECU prices are out of this this world. I got quotes from $1,100 to $1,700 for a unit in the US. luckily, I found this place in the UK called Lrdirect.com. They sell a BRITPART unit for $366 pounds. Shipping was $16 pounds and I had it in my hands in under 3 DAYS! No additional VAT charges. So for 1/3 to 1/2 price I got one.

I hope this helps.

Ovide