SB....I appreciate all your input and the tree explanation. Sounds like you are exactly where you want to be. Me too, I think.

I'm trying not to kill my engine....and to fix her up nice. To your points and much based on your input, I got two oil (and filter) changes in the last 2 months. Currently running with Amsoil and LR Filter. Plan is to tighten up oil pan, fix upper oil tube and top off.

I did your fan clutch check and failed miserably. I bought the HD clutch. I'm picking up the metal fan and taking it to the machine shop to trim it 3/8".

Flushing and going with the DEX 70/30/ww combo. Or Green if someone convinces me.

Then I'll take it out on the road again and we'll see from there. Hopefully no problem or leaking caps/expansion tank. Water temp and oil pressure gauges are on my wish list. Maybe before I fix the first bits.

 

On Dexcool:

Pictures here: Dexcool Pictures

Articles:
Dex-cool Contamination
Consumer complaints about DexCool in GM Engines
GM Owners Still Steaming Over Dex-Cool
Old GM settles lawsuit with “Dex-Cool” owners
Nationwide Settlement Reached In Gm/dex-cool Class Action Lawsuit - Law Firm Stueve Siegel Hanson, LLP Attorneys Kansas City, Missouri

 

Took my GMC Sierra clutch and Disco fan and went for a drive, 178-187 with AC on, 60 mph, level ground, air temp low 90's.

Had tested GMC fan and clutch with Disco fan shroud removed yesterday, did not like. So I sat down and measured and cut the GMC fan as precise as I could with kitchen shears, The blades are some sort of nylon, and greater pitch than stock Disco fan.

On road test with GMC cut down fan and GMC clutch observed 178-183 temp. Idle for 15 minutes - 205. With AC on. Without AC dropped to 187 at idle. Tried an idle test after a hour after sunset, outdoor temp had dropped some, 199 after 30 minutes with AC.

So this is a little improvement. Because tests are run somtimes 30 minute to a hour apart, results are not in concrete. Observed high air flow with original un-modified GMC fan was reduced by cutting about 1 inch off the end of each blade. But the Mark I palm reader still thinks it is more flow than stock fan clutch and stock fan, where I would drive at 187 - 192, and idle up to 207 before I switched it off.

Will report back on mpg. Had been getting 16 mpg with stock fan & stock clutch and 180 stat. All I have done so far is find that you can find some GM clutches that will fit, and modify their fan. And while this is a cheap fix ($!0), I have not attained my goal of idle at almost the temp of running down the road. Have to wait for cold start in the morning to see if fan "roars".

Other options I plan to explore - the suggested Caddilac fan, if correct direction, and if I can find a cheap grille, a DIY Saudi conversion. Of course, I should be able to simulate the Saudi grille by simply removing mine, to see how much that changes cooling at idle.

Pix of modified fan, and original GMC fan / clutch and Disco fan/clutch.

 

Tell me when you want to do your oil pressure gauge! I did mine last weekend! I went with a glowshift one, basically screws into where oil filter goes and oil filter screws in down below. Then you run a wire from the sensor to the inside of rover, going through fire wire on drivers side with all the other wires. (Have pictures I can send) then pull the fuse box out (real pain) and I spliced it in off the cigarette lighter, It draws 3 amps and It lights up! I wanted it to turn on and off when the key was on and off. Then ran power from that. Took a ground from the gauge and ground it on the panel in the foot well, there all ready is a grounding there. Oh and I grounded the sensor to the battery negative. (DIDN'T want to drill into frame or anything like that because I live in a high salt environment in winter=rust) It took about 3 hrs just because I wanted to make sure I did it right. I also set it up so I can run a OIL temp gauge as well. Just a few more wires. I have a link that I can find that will have the exact adapter for your rover when your ready.

 

So what is your PSI at idle and 2000 rpm?

 

Atancreti...There are a lot of gauges there. Prices look good. Which one did you get? I like the black 7 color for function but the white bezels seem more "classic".

I don't know where I'd mount it and what kind of accessories I'd need to do it. You think I can get the water in for under $75. I might do it now since I have the overheating problems.

I think I would need water temp and oil pressure. That's reasonable right? I have a thing about logo's, stickers (and smilies). They could have done better with that design. No biggie.

I'll be on to you for the offered help. If you want to stop by I'll surely buy the beer. My street is a bikini boardwalk to the popular beach here so it's a little distracting but you get used to it. Kinda.

 

Well I don't need to read those articles to understand that DEX is bad. I think my confusion is a member or two here switching around and then reading the threads out of order. So everything thinks the switch to Green is good? Do I flush with something?? Oh and this Green...does it have another name or I just go in and ask for Green.

 

Savannah. I understand your reasons behind testing and it surely would be valuable cruising through the midwest and your fan conks out......but....

..I'm looking to replace the LR viscous and fan with a "standard" part for cost effectiveness and availability reasons....something I think a lot of members might want to do.

I think Tom's set up is the way to go from what I understand here. A standard, HD or SD clutch depending on requirement and a machined metal fan. I would do some tests for you but really there are too many variables with my truck and I was never any good at that stuff.

 

If you just want a regular replacement go with the one written up in the tech area, which has been around for a while and is well known and used by our members. It is the non A/C rated one for a 2000 Chevy 4.3 engine. About $50 at most auto parts stores. Th A/C rated HD one is about $56. If $50 is not the preferred option right now, $10 for a used one at the junk yard, look at late 90's and up Chevy / GMC for a six inch diameter reverse clutch with that big honkin' metric nut holding it to the pulley and water pump. I have installed both and both work well. Just not as well as I would like, but each Rover and Rover owner is unique. In my case, I have an older rodded out and repaired radiator, which may not cool as well as it could. For all I know I could be in early stages of a HG leak, causing more overheating. My original fan had nine baldes, I got a Range Rover fan that has 11. And I'm going to try to adjust the operating set point on the salvage Chevy clutch I am currenly tinkering with (cheap to dissect).

I like Tom's set up as well, because you get close to 90% of WP shaft speed turning the fan. I would like that, PLUS throttle back to lower speed when not needed. Come on full power at say 200 degrees water temp. I went through two of the extreme duty clutch units and got no throttle back and tech support at at Hayden was polite, but minimal.

I'd like to try the Hayden extreme clutch that is designed for the Rover 4 liter engine, but O'Reilly's does not stock it, even at the regional warehouse, it has to special order from the vendor.

 

Cold idle: 30 cold 2000 rpm: 45!!
Warm idle: 12 warm 2000 rpm: 25