2000 lr disco 133k miles
#1)
OK I'll start off with the exhaust leak passenger side where the coupler os above the catylitic convert or by motor. Apparently the studs broke where ot goes together someone welded it and missed part of the backside. Its not bad bit it has a leak there.

Anything to worry about?


#2
Heater issue!
Now the heater blows cold the hoses in and out of the firewall are hot and the reservoir I filled up and bled the system by filling it cold and opening the bleed screw. It trickled out then I put the bleed screw back started truck let it warm up and made sure the reservoir didn't go low it actually filled up so i stuck the cap back on.

Is there a valve that controls air flow from warm vent to cold by the heater core that could be stuck?

#3
Oil leak dripping down on exhaust near rear of motor I assume rear main seal and the valve cover bolts are a little wet from leaking around them so I'll try and tighten, any thoughts on this.

#4
Motor sounds clean a bit rough at idle but more vibration than anything but motor and tranny feel and sound good, any idea on the low idle roughness while parked?

#5
Driveshaft seems to have a vibration at 75mph its not bad but definently there, therees zurk fittings on the actually shaft so I have no idea if this is the a new shaft, how would I tell?

#6
It blew a fair bit of steam when started this morning but irt was cold so i went to the store and back, the condensation was gone completely so I assume head gasket is good the oil is clean from any water as well no goopy grey. Is there a more difinitive way to make sure aside of swapping it?

 

2. Heater gets hot water when ever engine on, so if no hot air look for a vent damper jammed. See attached from RAVE, the free tech manual set (whole download in my signature panel)

3. Valve cover famous for coming loose each oil change - snug up with 8mm 12 point skinny or 1/4 drive socket. A well used longer than temp fix for rear main seal is White Sheppard product.

4. Plugs and wires, wires PITA because of the coil location, see RAVE manual for pulling top half of intake. Clean throttle body. Air cleaner.

5. See our tech section on the D1 section of the forum for the front propshaft rebuild write up for d2 (and D1) with pix and part numbers. Yours could have been reworked and then not greased every oil change.

6. HG usually make one or more (1) coolant loss, (2) overheating, (3) gurgling noises as gas bubbles pass through heater core, (4) make white smoke out exhaust, (5) dump coolant into oil. One test is a chemical combustion gas in coolant, is about $50 from auto parts store, does over a dozen tests. Another is a coolant pressure test, run PSI up to 20 and see if it will hold, or where leak may appear (external).

7. Using a scanner or Ultra Gauge to read digital coolant temp will let you see if coolant temp is steady or spiking.

 

2. Heater gets hot water when ever engine on, so if no hot air look for a vent damper jammed. See attached from RAVE, the free tech manual set (whole download in my signature panel)

3. Valve cover famous for coming loose each oil change - snug up with 8mm 12 point skinny or 1/4 drive socket. A well used longer than temp fix for rear main seal is White Sheppard product.

4. Plugs and wires, wires PITA because of the coil location, see RAVE manual for pulling top half of intake. Clean throttle body. Air cleaner.

5. See our tech section on the D1 section of the forum for the front propshaft rebuild write up for d2 (and D1) with pix and part numbers. Yours could have been reworked and then not greased every oil change.

6. HG usually make one or more (1) coolant loss, (2) overheating, (3) gurgling noises as gas bubbles pass through heater core, (4) make white smoke out exhaust, (5) dump coolant into oil. One test is a chemical combustion gas in coolant, is about $50 from auto parts store, does over a dozen tests. Another is a coolant pressure test, run PSI up to 20 and see if it will hold, or where leak may appear (external).