I have a 99 Disco II and need to replace the head gaskets. I found a link for the head gasket kit w/ new bolts on this site for $207, but wanted to see if anyone knows anything about them and the quality of the parts. The website is: http://www.eurotekapg.com/catalog/it...37/4286949.htm Please let me know if anyone has used them and what you think.

Thanks,

WB

 

WB,
That site won't open.
If they are not Rover made gaskets and head bolts, you don't want them.
Go to Atlantic British, they are only a few bucks more and the right parts. Make sure to also order an intake manifold gasket, yours is probably saturated with oil and will also need replacing.
Also consider ordering a set of 8 mm Magnecor plug wires if yours haven't been changed yet.

 

Mike - if still following this thread...
How many hours to do this? My 2000 w/125K is sure to be needing this at some point soon - it's never been done. This is something I am not qualified to do and wondered how many piggy banks need to be broken, aside from parts.
Thanks,
Rich

 

Most mechanic charge 10 hours labor plus parts. I have seen people do it at home over the weekend, if they have some experience.
$1400 to $1500 is the going rate. parts and labor, plus any head work if needed.

 

Is it absolutely necessary to have the heads resurfaced? I guess if I check it with a dial indicator and it is with in specs, then I don't, huh?

 

You won't know till the heads come off and have a straight edge put to them. I didn't have to have mine done when we replace the gaskets last spring.

 

First, let me start by saying that this is by far one of the most common issues with these buggers. I differ from the moderator on the issue of OE gaskets vs. after market. And by no means do I mean disrespect or anything, its just that as long as they are quality composite gaskets and you get the complete set, you are good to go. I use IMC for my stuff mostly, but like Mike said, the Guys at Atlantic British put together a kit that is great and the price is less than half the dealer charges. You MUST use new head bolts as they are stretch to yield. Meaning they get torqued down initially only to 15 lbs in specific order, then again in the same order get another 90deg of turning followed by a 2nd turning of 90deg. there are two sizes of bolts so the torque would be different anyways. Most important is using a qualified tech that uses his/her time wisely and is clean and precise. It's not a small job when done right. I use a sonic cleaner on all parts which return parts to new condition using sonic wave energy cavitating bubbles and detergent. This will take the nastiest intake or head for example and in twenty minutes make it like new. You couldn't clean it better any other way. It's a 9K dollar machine, most shops don't bother. Another issue, like all blind holes, if water or grease, oil or any fluid get in them and it isnt removed, it will not compress. physics 101. so those holes need to be cleaned and prepped but NOT run in with a tap on these blocks. The NEW bolts need to be lightly oiled and the lower end clean as you can get it. I prelube the cam in place as well as the pushrods and lifters, everything is covered in plastic while not being worked on. As far as surfacing the heads, I always send em out for three reasons. 1) minimally removing to get em completely fresh is good insurance, the valves get popped and the seats dressed as well as the valves as needed. the kits come with new valve stem seals, so have em put in while the valves are out. Finally, the valve stem installed height is adjusted as needed. Oh, and some cylinder heads were manufactured with very poor machine work to the valve guides. They get checked and corrected as needed. Finally, after everything is installed, and the parts and hoses that show signs of wear are replaced (since they are off anyways) you save money on that in terms of labor. Last note on seals. No one can tell me with confidence that land rovers don't leak like a sinking ship, they just do, and I say that being a lover ofthe machines. A tech who knows these beasties will know how and what to do in terms of sealing everything correctly, just the valve covers for instance need special attention if you want them RIGHT the first time and have them last. I do so many of these that I can say with confidence that I can give a customer a dry engine and it will still be that way for a long time. That's not self promotion, it's just a lot of experience and attention to detail. Mostly though, I am real keen on detail. Every engine leaves looking new (except without the leaks) Living on an island of 5000 people, I have 4 land rovers at the shop now, three with head gasket issues. It's just part of the "adventure" Don't be tempted to try and save money on cutting any corners, there is too much invested in terms of time and you want a measure of confidence that it will be a good performer for years to come. Use the correct coolant and change it (like the other fluids) as indicated by the manufacturer. I go shorter in those terms as most of my customers drive less than 10 miles each drive cycle. If they don't well, its an island, eventually they'll hit water Talk to Chip at Atlantic British, any of them can turn you on to the parts, he's just been the guy I use and he's on top of the game. Last thing, if you are looking for someone to do it as you indicated it's above your skill level, (cudos for being honest with yourself) most shops won't install customer supplied parts, and if they do, they aren't going to warranty the work. It's a whole other subject and based on markup and a solid business model. Hope that helps. DON'T overheat that thing either, gosh, I have had more than one customer(with lotsof $$) try to save a few bucks by driving overheated vehicles in. Why on Earth, I don't know but there ya go.
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