Help me with D2 2003 intermittent revving while idle and self repairing Head Gasket
#1
Help me with D2 2003 intermittent revving while idle and self repairing Head Gasket
Hi, just bought this LR Disco 2 2003 and it was a lemon so I am trying to save money by doing the work on my own. So far I found out that there is CO2 and a lot of pressure emanating from the Coolant reservoir and many have suspect the HG. So I was wondering how to go about doing the HG change out. I bought the HG kit and bolts from AB. On another thread someone told me to drain the oil and pressure test the block to see if there are other issues. Also I think someone who owned the car before me added in something like a head gasket fluid because I found the canister in the car- empty. So with all that I just want to know if getting to the HG is doable without removing the radiator and Battery things etc granted I have all the basic tools. Also to note that before the car over heats when I start her up, it idles up and down three or four times before settling down...
Bosche Engine w/ secondary air intake etc...
Bosche Engine w/ secondary air intake etc...
#2
there are tons of articles about doing head gaskets,
no; everything does not have to be remove from the engine compartment just moved out of the way. the only thing that have to be removed is the intakes and the heads.
have your heads decked (made flat) before installing them.
and i would suggest you change your t-sat to a 180 degree TD5 thermostat.
the only thing as far as tools is a valve cover socket, it's something like 8mm 12-point. a 24 in breaker bar, a 4 inch 1/2 extension and a shallow 5/8 impact socket. refill with green coolant and pressure test it before starting it.
also do not just unbolt the heads, un-torque them, remove the bolts in the opposite order you would tighten them, other wise your going to end up with bolts next to the firewall that will be ridiculously tight.
no; everything does not have to be remove from the engine compartment just moved out of the way. the only thing that have to be removed is the intakes and the heads.
have your heads decked (made flat) before installing them.
and i would suggest you change your t-sat to a 180 degree TD5 thermostat.
the only thing as far as tools is a valve cover socket, it's something like 8mm 12-point. a 24 in breaker bar, a 4 inch 1/2 extension and a shallow 5/8 impact socket. refill with green coolant and pressure test it before starting it.
also do not just unbolt the heads, un-torque them, remove the bolts in the opposite order you would tighten them, other wise your going to end up with bolts next to the firewall that will be ridiculously tight.
Last edited by drowssap; 12-04-2014 at 09:23 AM.
#6
#7
Hey everyone! I finally got to the rocker arms case. Whew that was scary. So far I drained my coolant, drained the oil, removed the belts, alternator, and the upper manifolds etc that block the headers. Here is a before and after, there is 1000's of pictures as I do every step so let me know if you want to see anything specific. I had to struggle to find the 5/16 12 star socket for the rocker case but luckily my friend had one and let me use it tonight. I might have some issues with getting some of the hard to reach exhaust manifold screws but I will try my best. Thanks everyone for helping me thus far. I will keep you posted on new developments. BTW, Does anyone know if the looks of this rocker arm parts and pics so far look decent? My oil looked fine, not creamy or bubbly. I think my core might be ok.
Last edited by William Kahapea; 12-10-2014 at 03:53 AM. Reason: Attachments were broken links