Just wasted $200 on a local mechanics so-called repair but the truck still has the same issues.
On cold starts it will start then after 5 seconds start hesitating then promptly stall,when trying to start again it will seem as if it wants to start and almost catch but wont,I have to floor the gas to get it to start and then feather it untill it warms up.After the truck warms up it starts and runs fine.
It has 206000 miles,we had just bought it used and checked the history of it,mechanically it had been well maintained but the service history report is spotty,only mentioning major repairs such as abs module replacement.
The reason why it had gone to the mechanic in the first place the girlfriend had been driving it on the highway and it had just stalled would not restart,mechanic stated loose and exposed wires and when I picked it up I noticed the engine was warm,of course it started and ran great,then as soon as we tried to start it cold,this issue began.
Any help and expertise would be GREATLY appreciated.

 

Clean idle air control valve, but don't physically twist or pull on the business end. The IACV is a 200 step computer regulated vacuum leak that deals with idle.

 

Thanks,what solvent or cleaner do you recommend to clean it?

 

Carb cleaner will work, but try to buy something rated for throttle body (it will say it on the can), as you may have to clean it next. Also clean the bore it fits into.

 

If you are halfway handy next time it does it pull a spark plug, reattach the plug wire and have your girlfriend try and start it and see if there is spark.
Stalling while driving when hot is signs of a bad crank position sensor.
Very common and not a big deal, cheap to replace.
If the spark plugs are worn out hard starting will happen so a tune up would not be a bad idea especially if you have no idea when it was last dine.
Also since you just bought it premium gas is required and 10w-40 is a good all around motor oil, NO 5w-30 or 10w-30 and NOTHING engine is anything w-20.

 

Disco 2 works a little differently, the motor is external and has hoses on each end, so there isn't really a bore it fits into. But you can still clean the valve I think.

Stepper Motor (IAC Valve) BOSCH Engine (Genuine Part # ERR6078) - Land Rover fuel injection from Atlantic British

I'm wondering if the engine has leaky fuel injectors, and fuel pressure is bleeding off into one or more cylinders.

 

If after tinkering with it, and it is still acting up, PM me your number and I'll try and walk you thru what to check.
By the way, what did the mechanic do and do you have a service engine light on, if so, go to the local parts store and get the codes read for free and get back to us with the fault code numbers.

 

Thanks All, for your help,just got through with idle air control valve,removed it,cleaned it and reinstalled,still same problem,prior to cleaning my inspection showed no gunk build up,it looked pretty clean,truck is still acting the same way although it seems to backfire a bit when feathering the gas to keep it running,of course after it warms up for a couple on minutes it acts normal and restarts with no issues,I will try to bring to advance for code reading today.

 

Mechanic was shady when I asked exactly what he did,he stated he inspected the engine compartment,found some loose wires,cleaned throttle body and related equipment and ran a code check,stating it was throwing up numerous codes.
The service light has never come on and does not show when the key is intially turned,disabled?
Also when we bought the truck I did a full tune and run the right gas.

 

If the check engine light is NOT coming on then someone broke the bulb, 2 screws hold the instrument cowl on, lower the steering wheel, you will see the screws.

What brand of plug wires did you use?
Was this problem there before you did the tune up?