HELP. Thermostat Positioning/Direction with hoses.
#1
HELP. Thermostat Positioning/Direction with hoses.
I just got a land rover last week. 2001 Discovery 2 Series. We are replacing the thermostat and waterpump because they are no good.
I took the thermostat out, but forgot which direction is was originally in, now I am afraid that I have placed it in reverse. here is a picture of it.
There are two top hoses. As you can see. The on pointing slightly to the top left, is connected to the waterpump, and the one going straight up is going to the top engine. Can someone please help and let me know if i have installed it incorrectly?
Thank You
I took the thermostat out, but forgot which direction is was originally in, now I am afraid that I have placed it in reverse. here is a picture of it.
There are two top hoses. As you can see. The on pointing slightly to the top left, is connected to the waterpump, and the one going straight up is going to the top engine. Can someone please help and let me know if i have installed it incorrectly?
Thank You
#2
You have it o. Correctly! Good job! Welcome to the forum:-)
You need to do your fan clutch also. Where is your bleed screw located? If its on your upper radiator hose its highly recommended that you replace it with the updated style that is in the T in-between hoses. Also more important that anything else you need to verify that you have a updated or aftermarket front drive shaft
You need to do your fan clutch also. Where is your bleed screw located? If its on your upper radiator hose its highly recommended that you replace it with the updated style that is in the T in-between hoses. Also more important that anything else you need to verify that you have a updated or aftermarket front drive shaft
Last edited by lr2001silver; 09-09-2012 at 03:09 AM.
#3
When you say the themostat and water pump are no good, might we imagine that your truck was overheating after you purchased it? Many previous owners "dump" these vehicles when chronic overheating begins, and they sometimes mask this problem by pouring in a lot of radiator / head gasket leakz stopz. The vehicle has a temp gauge, but the engine computer drives that display. It keeps needle at the 50% point until overheating starts. Above 50% is very suspect. A digital gauge, like a code scanner (rent from parts store) or an Ultra Gauge ($70) can show temp in digital fashion, and you can be sure other problems are not going on. Like sludged up radiator, head gasket, cracked block, etc. Hope you have no gurgle sounds under dash when done with venting (air --- or exhaust gas in coolant). Here's a coolant layout for you from the factory shop manual, called the RAVE.
#5
You have it o. Correctly! Good job! Welcome to the forum:-)
You need to do your fan clutch also. Where is your bleed screw located? If its on your upper radiator hose its highly recommended that you replace it with the updated style that is in the T in-between hoses. Also more important that anything else you need to verify that you have a updated or aftermarket front drive shaft
You need to do your fan clutch also. Where is your bleed screw located? If its on your upper radiator hose its highly recommended that you replace it with the updated style that is in the T in-between hoses. Also more important that anything else you need to verify that you have a updated or aftermarket front drive shaft
#6
When you say the themostat and water pump are no good, might we imagine that your truck was overheating after you purchased it? Many previous owners "dump" these vehicles when chronic overheating begins, and they sometimes mask this problem by pouring in a lot of radiator / head gasket leakz stopz. The vehicle has a temp gauge, but the engine computer drives that display. It keeps needle at the 50% point until overheating starts. Above 50% is very suspect. A digital gauge, like a code scanner (rent from parts store) or an Ultra Gauge ($70) can show temp in digital fashion, and you can be sure other problems are not going on. Like sludged up radiator, head gasket, cracked block, etc. Hope you have no gurgle sounds under dash when done with venting (air --- or exhaust gas in coolant). Here's a coolant layout for you from the factory shop manual, called the RAVE.
#7
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You just bought a truck, that if you guess what is wrong will turn it into a boat anchor.
At your mileage, if you still have the factory radiator, it is plugged up and can not be cleaned.
First thing you should do is bleed the system then do a coolant pressure test on the system, may need to do a chemical block trst depending on the pressure test.
In the mean time do not start or drive it.
At your mileage, if you still have the factory radiator, it is plugged up and can not be cleaned.
First thing you should do is bleed the system then do a coolant pressure test on the system, may need to do a chemical block trst depending on the pressure test.
In the mean time do not start or drive it.
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