a cool 109F here in lovely paradise ca, landy ran a cool 205F, can't complain.

 

If your cooling system is in proper working order and is well maintained then you do not need a colder t-stat, wetter water, purple slushee or anything else to keep your engine cool.
Any of those might be fine to get you home or to get you by until you can properly repair your cooling system.

 

What unit is that and how do you hook it into your system? I am refurubishing a 2000 and would like the added protection. If that is a high end i.e. high cost solution, what are some more cost friendly but still good protections out there?

 

If you're referring to the information display, that's called an ultra gauge, plugs into the OBDII port, and I believe the current price is under $100. There are a number of discussions about it here.

 

Spike: How do you have the temp in the mirror?? I have it where it says the direction but not temp.
Robersonb: Its $69.99 for the ultra gauge. It clears codes too. It monitors a bunch of stuff and lets you read live data.

 

I bought a aftermarket mirror off of Craig's List a few years ago, $100.
Had a glass shop glue on the GM mount to the glass, then wired it in, the power is already there because of the auto dimming mirror, just tapped into that.
Then ran the temp probe under the headliner, down the inside of the A-pillar, under the bonnet along the fender and clipped it to the grill in front of the radiator.
I just have to make sure than when I get a new windshield installed to let the mobile glass guy know he has to glue on a new mount, no big deal.
It is nice to have, when the temp drops below 36*F it flashes ICE for 30 seconds to let you know the roads may be icy.
New these mirrors are $300+, it is made by Gentex right here in West Michigan, Magna Donnelly is the ones who made the mirrors for Land Rover, over time they all leak.
You could also pick up one of those mirrors out of a GM car or truck from a junk yard and order a new temp probe, then install the mirror.

 

So, my truck enjoys 219 degrees. It settles at 186 for a few minutes. Then, it slowly climbs up, seems to not be related to how I am driving. Settles in at 219. There are no more cooling parts to be replaced, everything has been. I honestly don't think my radiator was rodded out as good as it could have been

 

Mr. Honda50r,

You can test your idea with infrared thermostat, measure top and bottom fins when it is warmed up like you say. If a lot more than 10F change top to bottom the rad may have more crud in it. There is a 232 aluminum replacement rad for a D1, recent write ups on that.

180 stat? 219F at 50 mph? Paper towel stays on grille at idle? Stays on when AC is switched on? Belt route? Fan blades reversed (cupped side toward engine block is correct)?

 

101 OAT , 201 h2o. 195 t-stat both ac's running 50mph

Ps. dual condenser fans

 

is that dual condenser fans of the D2 variety? Did you post a pix?