IMHO it won't be much fun. Will need something to jack it with, AND something to support the engine tranny while you do this. A brief scan through the RAVE showed some "guide studs" that are put on in place of/over some bolts T/C to Tranny, I guess they are to skin up while removing. Might want to read thru whole process, then crawl under there with a flash light and look over everything closely. Would suppose you can rent a transmission jack. But if you have to work on dirt/grass, you will have extra problems. Tough time of year for this, truck down, holiday travel, if you are working on it and need special tools or parts availability might be an depending on date.....

 

Driving it like that, with the bearings not properly retained, could lead to the shafts locking up and causing an accident. Will AAA pay for towing all the other vehicles involved plus the medical and funeral expenses of others?

 

WOW!
Death & mayhem all from a whining bearing at 35mph?!?!?!
Surely you exaggerate?
But yes, my insurance will pay for all the funerals, medical, and etc.
Maybe I am wrong, but in my entire life I have NEVER heard of a xfer case or transmission failure causing such a situation that would be even remotely close to a blow out or wheel falling off.
Am I wrong to assume that if speeds were such to cause such a situation then the u-joints would break under such force?
Heck I've been in a vehicle at 45mph when front u joint broke and driveshaft dropped to the ground acting like a catapult and even then it was not that bad. Why? Because the forces involved cause other things to happen before you see the vehicle catapult into the air killing people.
Sorry, but without any evidence I am not buying the death and mayhem from a xfer case bearing failure. Not one bit.

 

I think the situation Tom mentioned is worst case. Absolutely it could happen, but it is likely a small percentage. I wouldn't bet on something else breaking (u-joint, axle splines, etc.) allowing the driver to maintain control. I'd expect a frozen output shaft causing the tires fed by that output to stop turning and, depending on the speed, contribute to a skid which you may or may not be able to control. Then it becomes a matter of what's around you (only vs. many vehicles on the road... and what type of road - flat plains highway, or twisty mountain pass, etc.).

So, the thought I was going to post before I got distracted from death and mayhem was how to make guide pins (if needed). I've made them for mounting up heavy, manual transmissions (last one was a SM465... three times ) but not for transfer cases. But the method is the same: figure out what bolt size is needed, then get two of them a little longer than the transfer case housing when threaded all the way in. Cut the heads off the bolts, then notch a slot into the shanks of each bolt so that a big flat head screwdriver can be used to remove them once the t-case is on, and secured by several bolts in the other holes.

 

Speaking of exaggeration, I should label myself as GUILTY! It seems this xfer case is not nearly as bad as I expressed. The pics cannot lie and speak for themselves that 'yes, almost certainly a roller bearing needs replaced', but it really doesn't sound as bad as I may have suggested.
I drove it tonight 8 miles to Wally World and back to verify condition and how long I have to repair. I may be wrong but it sounded almost normal. From my experience, almost identical to a heavy duty trunk, dumptruck, straight truck. While this may not be "normal" it is not far from many threads I read where owners were concerned with whine from xfer box and told by experienced owners that this is kinda normal or try 140 oil to quiet it.
Soooo, I have decided that "I'M GOING IN". Yup, i'm going to give it a whirl and hopefully come out with success. We have put 100 miles on it since problem started and it runs perfect in every way except small whine and of course knowledge of bearing pcs that came out. It even shifts from HI to LOW with no problem.
My plan is this - Monday change fluid AGAIN to look if any more bearing pcs and color of oil (this may cause a change in plans if very bad). Then January 3rd I will change it out. Between now and then wife will have put 200 miles of street driving under 45 mph on it. I have faith it would easily do more than that. Will I be wrong? Time will tell, but even driving a brand new vehicle is a gamble and even more so on used vehicle even with no apparent problems.
My plan for switching them is using guide pins as Jimmy suggested (thanks man) but I am toying with modifying them (will let you know if I do and if bad or good result), raising all 4 wheels on stands in my garage, have propane heater to help. I have the RAVE, manuals, and xfer case diagrams, etc. Since I will be pretending to be a weight lifter with just my own 2 hands I am planning to use tie down straps to help with weight where 1 is connected to 2 spots on one side of vehicle and 2nd strap goes from that one to opposite side. That one will be the control that allows up and down while the first one willl be the hammock case rests in. I'm also going to build a tranny holder attachment for my floor jack. I found one suggested by Tom in another post that comes from Disco 1 repair manual under the manual transmission repair section listed in category of "special tools". This will be guide for what I will make from wood but modified to fit the LT230. Will most likely attach metal to base that can be fastened to floor jack but allow slight tilting. We will see which work better or maybe a conjunction of both.
After reading numerous threads and land rover documents I believe my most difficult hurdles will be maneuvering the weight of it and any stuck / frozen bolts. From recent unpleasant experience completely outside of a Land Rover or vehicle I have found there is almost no bolt that cannot be won over with heat. Since then I have found this to work to be 'fantasical' for all metal bolts. Simply heat with blow torch long enough to almost glow, let it cool to room temp, and put some serious 'growl' into it. Obviously not near fuel lines, tanks, or any other flammable.
Once changed will fill with cheapo oil, run 5-10 miles, then do again or if good put in Royal Purple and call her "fabulous". At least I hope so. Then will start on casually making original fabulous on the bench. I will try to be responsible and post follow ups.
thansk everyone and please feel free to add advice, experience, etc, even if a year or two form now because people like me read the old threads and it is helpful even if not for original poster.

 

I don't know who mentioned a wheel falling off or vehicle catapulting. I surely didn't.

The danger isn't from a whining bearing. It's from one or more failed bearings.
The bearings we're talking about look like this when new.


The cage that's now missing from yours keeps the ***** located so they can do this


Without the retainer they tend to group together and don't properly support the shafts, causing heavier than designed for side loading on the shafts. Aside from shaft breakage from improper loading, more pieces can come out and potentially lead to the transfer case, and the rest of the drive train, locking up leading to an accident.

Here's the LT230 jack adapter

Section 41, service tools, in the manual.

I recently R&R'd the transfer on my wife's '97 and made it to fit my floor jack. After the experience removing it I got a proper transmission jack. Being able to tilt the transfer made a huge difference in reinstalling it. I was able to justify it perhaps because I have 3 more to do.

Guide pins are a big help and in fact the manual suggests them. They need to be longer than the transmission output shaft. If I think of it I'll measure one tomorrow since I can't remember how long I made them.

 

Not sure where you got pic of bearing but while it is a roller bearing it doesn't look like any I viewed as replacements.
In regards to the catapulting, I NEVER said you said that - PLEASE reread my comment. i was replying in regards to your comment of
"medical and funeral expenses for others"
I reaaaaalllllly thought that was and still is overly dramatic. Maybe at 100 mph or off roading on mountain side, but not driving across town. I did and still do offer up an open mind IF and this is HUGE IF anyone can offer ANY evidence of xfer case OR transmission failure that led to death or even medical expenses without some sort of special circumstance. It would certainly be well worth knowing. Of course any fool can panic and cause death or medical with any incident but that is not what I am asking. How many people push gas thinking they are in reverse but when realize they are in forward they panic and floor it. That is not a tranny failure causing incident nor would it be if someone simply acted foolish when xfer case failed. I would bet money it would either grind to halt, skid to halt, or loose power due to a breakage somewhere. Same as if you slammed on brakes or slipped into neutral or broke ujoint. No flipping, rolling, or etc. No death or medical expenses unless someone is an idiot or tailgating me, which in that case is NOT the fault of xfer case.

 

Bearing pic in previous post - is that an actual bearing out of or intended for a lt230? If it is I am concerned that places I looked at were either showing generic pic or not offering correct bearings. Along those lines, does anyone have advice on who or where to get bearing and seals from?

In regards to a transmission jack - any advice or experience on different types, prices, and brands/stores? I was under impression they were expensive (like $100+) and that the adapters that connect onto regular floor jacks were not worth the price they cost. Is that true?

If I am spending $200 on bearings and seals I would not hesitate to spend $275 to get the best. If I were to buy a tool such as tranny jack for this job it may be worth while if able to use it later and for many years or if able to resell after. I've bought $150 tools before and resold when done for almost same amount which made it far cheaper than renting but not sure tranny jacks have big market for used. Looks like I need to research on that, but actual real world past experience from anyone would help. Sounds like Tom's experience would suggest a huge benefit to have the tran jack. Which one did you get Tom and would you get the same again?

 

I had one of the floor jack adapters. It was sort of ok for replacing an R380, but for the transfer it was a POS (it's what I used to remove it).
I got the transmission jack from Northern Tool for about $180.

Here's one of the output housing bearings, SKF6207 (Rover PN STC1130)

 

There are roller bearings and ball bearings, both of which are used inside an LT230. Tom is describing and providing pictures of ball bearings which are used on the output shafts, both front and rear.

Suggestion so that you don't go through a ton of gear oil - there is an inspection plate/cover on the bottom of the LT230. Pull that off and take a look at the insides and what's lying in the bottom (chunks/pieces not small enough to make it out the drain plug hole). You can flush it a bunch, but if the bits can't make it out the drain hole, then you won't know about them (they'll likely not cause you any problems, so long as they're heavy enough to stay in the bottom). Use a good silicone sealant to reseal the cover and the lowest four bolts (IIRC those are the four which are exposed to the gear oil). While I don't usually recommend using silicone on bolt threads, just make sure whatever you use on the threads to seal things up is designed to be exposed to oil constantly. I think it was Permatex 2A I used which did not work for me - it was handy (already owned it) and thought it would work.