Man, I appreciate all the reply's but this is scaring the hell out of me. I tried searching under the truck for the drain plugs under the cylinder block and couldn't even find those. Better find a mechanic tomorrow. I know...how lame.

 

Is it a D1 or a D2? When I have flushed the coolant on my D2, I have only been able to remove the driver's side block plug. The passenger side plug is inaccessible due to the engine mount.

Just take a deep breath, get a good night's sleep, and proceed tomorrow.

 

Not sure how cold where you are, but if not draining vehicle for frozen storage, don't need to deal with block drains. Radiator and heater core are many times more likely to be source of problems. When you flush with distilled water (it is cheap) that will take care of residue inside the block.

 

Thanks fir the encouraging words. I think I can remove the thermostat for inspection as it is readily accessible. Oh, it's a 1999 D2 by the way.

It's getting cold as "hell" where I am in Quebec. Well, it's minus 6 tonight and will warm up in the day. Still, the hands get cold really quickly anywhere around zero.

 

cooling diagram attached

 

Thanks SB. I downloaded the entire manual from the RAVE site. I'll see how adventurous I feel after a cup of coffee.

 

maybe one of these 70,000 BTU Kerosene Forced Air Heater with Thermostat

 

Funny guy.

I took the Rover to a trusted mechanic I know and he found a small leak at the bottom of the rad, facing the engine. My mech showed me the spot with the small leak and it looks like the radiator had a bit of play and was rubbing against a piece of plastic down there. What holds the radiator in place way down at the bottom? Does it simply sit in a tray or is there a bracket of some sort? Anyway, hunting for a new rad now and found one for $365 Canadian through Auto Parts Online Canada. Found another one at British Atlantic for $315 but with shipping and duties, works out the same as the Canadian supplier. Is that too much or in the ballpark? Is it worth while looking for a radiator or is that a horrible idea.

So my mech. put the hoses back on and we decided that rad. flush was useless with the leak. He bled the system and said there was a bit of air trapped in the line. There is still no heat coming into the cabin. The blower is working but only tepid air is coming through,

Ideas oh wise ones..........

 

Yep, time for a radiator unless a shop will warranty repairs to yours. Old style copper and brass solder up OK, aluminum is a different set of issues.

 

Yes, mine is aluminium so I don't think it can be repaired. So does the $350 price range for a replacement sound about right? I found a guy in BC that has a used rad for sale. As long as it's not leaking, do you think that would be worth while? He's only asking $40 and if I can get a year or two our of it, I'd be happy.