Okay, not sure what this means but, here are the results:

Spark good at coil when cranking..

With key in position right before cranking position:

V1 = 13 volts
V2 = 12 volts
V3 = 12 volts
V4 = 0 volts

V2 and V3 are 11 volts over spec.

Not sure what to make of the chart on the PDF about it...ideas?

 

No fault codes showing on on-board diagnostic unit.

 

Here is what the 4 V's are:

V1 =BATTERY VOLTAGE

V2 =VOLTAGE FROM - NEGATIVE BATTERY SIDE TO + SIDE OF COIL

V3 =VOLTAGE FROM -NEGATIVE BATTERY SIDE TO -NEGATIVE SIDE OF COIL

V4 = VOLTAGE FROM AMPLIFIER GROUND TO GROUND

 

This was posted on LRO about 5 years ago...my posting:

Ignition system test - Page 4 - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum



"I finally had a chance yesterday to go out to the truck. The first thing I tried was the 2 small connections that are connected into the (-) side of the coil, I think they might be resistors (They are black flat & rectangular and have a spade connector at each end) but I haven't had time to confirm that yet."

I still have idea what those black flats connectors are ........

 

Ihscout says test 2 good moved on to test 3...here are the results

Test 3:

"Connect voltmeter between battery positive (+ve)
terminal and H.T. coil negative (-ve) terminal.
Voltmeter should register 0 volts.
Switch ignition ’On’, voltmeter should still register 0"volts.

Mine is reading 12 volts with ignition on or off...

 

Im on two threads right now with the same issue. This might be of help to others in the future:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/1197217-post21.html

You have a number of aftermarket ignition module options for D1’s noting pre 94 update model the amp was located on the distributer and post update located away from heat beside the coil. I have also added some matching coil info as ideally the 2 should really be changed as a pair, funds permitting.

1. Using a Bosch BIM 024 ignition amp conversion as devised by bee utey for the demands of gas. This is a great low cost option as this amp new is cheap to purchase and was (with matching coils) in most Fords and Commodores in period 81 -88 plus Magnas and Camrays through to 94. The advantage of this alternative is you can swap out your OEM coil to something cheaper and arguably better.

2 The following are Plug and Play aftermarket units and match up the OEM coils which were either Lucas or later on Bosch units. The advantage of these is they are plug and play and the remote mounting plate/heat sink is used to fix very securely the rubber booted 2 pin plug coming from the dizzy (underneath and not shown in pics with 3 wires, 2 via the rubber plug and one being a ground mounted to the plate). Disadvantages are a bit more expensive and maybe not as good as the BIM 024 for gas, however that is bee utey’s territory.

a) Tridon TIM044 Australian made and which Bursons carry for about $100.

b) Automotive Ignition & Electronics in Brisbane Automotive Ignition and Electronics - Home import both a 2 pin (Pic 1) and 3 pin (pic 2) versions mainly for the trade but they do sell to the public. They sell these amps for $99.00 retail. Note while it may be a 3 pin plug on the coil harness for the remote amp style, only 2 pins are active.

c) You will find probably at your local LR specialist and on-line a number places in UK and US that sell aftermarket LR amp modules and some come with 3 pin plug adaptors for those with an existing 2 plug setup. I have had no experience with these.

d) A Lucas OEM coil will cost about $80 however Bosch are arguably better however a Bosch OEM coil (# 0 221 122 392) is a ridiculous $240 plus in Australia but 1/3 that in UK and US? Go figure? Working on the theory of getting rid of more things Lucas the better, I am currently trialing a older barrel style oil filled HEI coil made by Bosch (the BIC290 that I am assured works with LR OEM and aftermarket amps and can be found in Lasers, Sigmas and some Mazdas) to economise the plug and play amp module alternative. The BIC290 is only $35 new and apparently works so well to the extent it is used by some high end EFI V8 specialists instead of big name coils.

As a side note I have found LR amps to die slowly to the extent you don’t know anything is wrong until possibly the first symptom being a quick misfire occurring out of the blue. If your fuel mileage is a bit ordinary (say < 100 Klm / 20 litres) and you have checked out all the usual suspects with no problem, then a ignition amp on the way out may be the culprit.

 

Think for a minute. Your meter is between battery positive and on the coil's negative lead and your getting 12V... that's a dead short to ground. It's supposed to be a dead circuit - (0V).

For future jaunts away from home, having a spare coil in the glovebox is a no option must have. I'm fairly sure you can grab a decent coil from any parts store. Anything from 20k to 35k Vdc should work.
__________________
97 SD Altai Silver

 

Tony if you go out locally for a coil have them cross reference Bosch 0-221-122-392, that is the coil number for a 3.9. Get a cheap one, your just testing it within the ignition system. Keep on going with the tests from the Rave. Don't just stop at the coil..... you never know. Your getting spark, if you have fuel too then it might just be that the isn't anything really wrong but since I don't have a dizzy run motor to double check your readings we'll have to go at this one step at a time. I've tried reading the ETM's ignition circuit and it aint laid out simple, have to bounce around page to page. I'll do my best.

 

Test 4 Pick-up Coil Resistance:

It tested perfect 3k ohm. The only test I have left is the coil wire to the top of the rotor bug. My sister is at church and as soon as she returns I will have her crack the engine over for the test.

Make sure I mentioned this, I did changed the fuel filter out and the pressure seems to have jumped from about 30 to 35 before ignition.

I also cranked the engine over and it sounds like it wants to start but still no go.

 

Just found this cross reference chart for coils:

Cross Interchange Parts

Factory Number
CARQUEST 52-1639
WELLS C1237
BWD E342
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS UF-312
LAND ROVER PRC 6574
BOSCH 0 221 122 392
AIRTEX 5C1258