I'm about to wire up some 4" LED's to my rack and am trying to figure out how to wire my switches up. I'm going to be using relays so the switch itself isn't going to be carrying the load to the lights. The switches I bought have 3 pins on the back, which I'm assuming are power(supply), ground, and accessory(load). Nothing is labeled and they didn't come with instructions so that's just my assumption. Being that they are illuminated switches that I only want to be lit when the circuit is on, do I just need to wire up two posts, one to the 86 pin on the relay and one to ground? Or do I still need to pull a supply wire from the cigarette lighter or something? Just trying to do a basic toggle on/off with the relay. Looked at a bunch of diagrams online but most are for wiring the switch to control the primary load. Thanks for the help.

edit: Doing some more research it looks like I need to wire to a 12v supply, I'm planning on installing these down on the center console near the diff lock stick. I want to be able to run them with the keys not even in the truck, so I need a constant power circuit to tap into. Is there one near the console, maybe the clock, that is constantly supplied?

 

I don't know your answers but this is in my future; following your progress. Please be sure to post the answers.

If you don't mind, let me know how you are getting the wires up to the rack.... through the roof rack mounts/roof?

 

Planning on running them via the passenger's side A-pillar, pop out in the corner of the window over the weather stripping, then just zip tying them really tightly along the rack mounts up to the level of the lights. I was considering fishing the wire through the tubing of the rack like it was engineered for, but the thought of threading wires into and out of tiny little holes in the rack makes my head hurt. everything will be externally run but neatly managed

 

VERY nice looking rig.

I'd read that to get the wires through the rack you have to enlarge the holes at the roof, so I was wondering.

 

I ran hot from new fuse block at battery through hole above brake pedal to switches and back though then up the pillar . Relays give me a headache, I have to fumblef*** around with them till I get it right.

 

All depends on the configuration of the switch which usually has a marking such as DPST, DPDT, SPST, etc... (double pole single throw, double pole double throw.....)

3 connectors could be center tap (usually used for power), Normally open tap, and a normally closed tap. Multimeter is very useful in these situations.

 

not to thread jack, but quick question with using factory fog switches.
pin 1= hot 12v
pin 2= ????? edit; pin 2= hot for back lighting
pin 3= 86 on the relay
pin 4= nothing
pin 5= ground

 

so could it just not be used? it lights up and works without it..

 

On this page when you scroll down to Update 13/03/2008 it has the instructions for using factory switches.
www.discovery2.co.uk / Roof Rack Lights

 

okay, thank you. I had been looking at that article before. I think you linked it to me.
problem is it says (pin 2= dash lighting)
so lets say I am too stupid to know what that means
i think that is a an ignition on = hot source, so does that mean It will light up the indicator with ignition on? what am I not getting. with out using pin 2 my switch lights up when on and not when off. what else could it possible need to do?
and really no need to pretend on the stupid, thing. I stumble at these switches every time that I jack with them.