overheated 300tdi
#1
overheated 300tdi
Hi all,
Bought a 95 Disco 1 300tdi months ago. The vehicles overheated recently due to the expansion tank breakage at the middle. Fitted a new tank and replaced old bottom hose. But the pressure built up in the cooling system is extremely high, seem like compression gas is entering the cooling system. Is that the cause of bursting expansion tank or the head was cracked when I added water after an hour of overheating.
Please help!!
Bought a 95 Disco 1 300tdi months ago. The vehicles overheated recently due to the expansion tank breakage at the middle. Fitted a new tank and replaced old bottom hose. But the pressure built up in the cooling system is extremely high, seem like compression gas is entering the cooling system. Is that the cause of bursting expansion tank or the head was cracked when I added water after an hour of overheating.
Please help!!
#3
RE: overheated 300tdi
Hi mike,
Thanks for your advise. I had tried a few time starting the engine and let it run idling in the car porch to normal operating. And there is no visual leaking fromthe sides, no oil in coolant, or coolant in oil. If it is only head gasket, that's a relieve. Mymechanic fren told me I might had cracked the head by adding water too soon after overheating, is this possible?
Allen
Thanks for your advise. I had tried a few time starting the engine and let it run idling in the car porch to normal operating. And there is no visual leaking fromthe sides, no oil in coolant, or coolant in oil. If it is only head gasket, that's a relieve. Mymechanic fren told me I might had cracked the head by adding water too soon after overheating, is this possible?
Allen
#4
RE: overheated 300tdi
Yes, possible to crack a head if you put cold water into a very hot engine - however, the expansion tank exploding points to the damage being there before you added water to it.
If you overheated the engine for an hour I'm amazed it's still running - if you mean you added water an hour after you overheated it then there's pretty much no chance you'll have damaged it.
You'll have to have the head off anyway to replace the gasket as a minimum, get the existing head checked out before you re-fit it or you might end up doing the job twice if the original head is actually cracked.
Cheers,
If you overheated the engine for an hour I'm amazed it's still running - if you mean you added water an hour after you overheated it then there's pretty much no chance you'll have damaged it.
You'll have to have the head off anyway to replace the gasket as a minimum, get the existing head checked out before you re-fit it or you might end up doing the job twice if the original head is actually cracked.
Cheers,
#5
#6
#7
Start with the basics -
fan belt route correct? Look it up in the manual, don't guess.
Fan blades cupped side toward block? Electric fans (if equipped) running in correct direction (wiring reversed)? A paper towel held against grille should remain there by air suction, not be blown away.
Trash in air flow (AC condenser full of mud, space between condenser and radiator)?
Coolant full and 50:50 mix, not straight antifreeze? Coolant purged of air?
Should not be moving above midpoint on the gauge. Near the red is way too hot.
There is a liquid chemical test you can buy from the auto parts store or have a shop perform. It detects exhaust gas in coolant (bubbles or even just the smell of it) and changes color. It is NOT a pH test strip for antifreeze. About $50-$60 US. You could have a defective head gasket job or a cracked block.
When you say "new" radiator, is that "new" or "from another truck" - if pre-owned, may have calcium buildup inside that restricts cooling, can be rodded out by a radiator shop.
Lower hose collapse - if when engine brought up to rpm when parked, watch hose to see if it is being collapsed by suction from water pump.
fan belt route correct? Look it up in the manual, don't guess.
Fan blades cupped side toward block? Electric fans (if equipped) running in correct direction (wiring reversed)? A paper towel held against grille should remain there by air suction, not be blown away.
Trash in air flow (AC condenser full of mud, space between condenser and radiator)?
Coolant full and 50:50 mix, not straight antifreeze? Coolant purged of air?
Should not be moving above midpoint on the gauge. Near the red is way too hot.
There is a liquid chemical test you can buy from the auto parts store or have a shop perform. It detects exhaust gas in coolant (bubbles or even just the smell of it) and changes color. It is NOT a pH test strip for antifreeze. About $50-$60 US. You could have a defective head gasket job or a cracked block.
When you say "new" radiator, is that "new" or "from another truck" - if pre-owned, may have calcium buildup inside that restricts cooling, can be rodded out by a radiator shop.
Lower hose collapse - if when engine brought up to rpm when parked, watch hose to see if it is being collapsed by suction from water pump.
#8
Hi Savannah Buzz
the rad is brand new the car is in the repair shop and they can not find out what is wrong with it, have done all the tests the head is ok coolant is a 50 50 mix all brand new hoses and water pump is brand new, had the car for four years it done no real off roading used for towing a small caravan say twice a year and for local running around,
thanks
the rad is brand new the car is in the repair shop and they can not find out what is wrong with it, have done all the tests the head is ok coolant is a 50 50 mix all brand new hoses and water pump is brand new, had the car for four years it done no real off roading used for towing a small caravan say twice a year and for local running around,
thanks
Last edited by Charles Austin; 09-11-2012 at 07:44 AM.
#9
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