Propshaft Rebuild
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Baja
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 52
From: Georgia, USA
I've never had one that bad. Worst case I've had to push them in a bit, clean up the yoke bore with a wire brush then use the method I described.
And no, I hold the propshaft in my had when using my brass hammer on it.
Winching
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 677
Likes: 12
From: Austin, TX
Sorry, I didn't get that the cap wouldn't move at all, I thought it was moving, but you couldn't get it far enough out to grab it with pliers.
I've never had one that bad. Worst case I've had to push them in a bit, clean up the yoke bore with a wire brush then use the method I described.
And no, I hold the propshaft in my had when using my brass hammer on it.
I've never had one that bad. Worst case I've had to push them in a bit, clean up the yoke bore with a wire brush then use the method I described.
And no, I hold the propshaft in my had when using my brass hammer on it.
I WAS able to move the joints in the H about 1/4", then they would bind, leaving the opposite cap still not accesible by pliers of any kind.
when you responded regarding tapping on the yoke with a dead blow or other soft hammer,.....I thought perhaps that was the problem, that I was woking on the u joints in the H,....not the joints in the yoke (at the middle u joint). So went out to try pushing one of those joints/caps, and then got agressive with my cheater pipe on the vise handle and blew up the vise after my 3rd or 4th attempt. The bearing caps in the yoke really did not move at all,.......maybe just a hair.
I'm going to try a friends vise this afternoon and will clean up the bearing cap bores, which I had not done previously, before pushing on the bearing caps and joint.
Last edited by bcolins; Aug 24, 2013 at 11:08 AM.
Baja
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 5,845
Likes: 368
From: Near Bordeaux, France
If you are ever stuck for the propshaft parts for the cardan (Hookes) or the UJ's I have recently used these people who give a fast and excellent service.
http://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/discovery-2-...kit-2310-p.asp
They do the heavy duty GKN UJ's and rubber drive doughnut.
I've just reinstalled the rear rebuilt propshaft and about to tackle the dreaded cardan front propshaft.
http://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/discovery-2-...kit-2310-p.asp
They do the heavy duty GKN UJ's and rubber drive doughnut.
I've just reinstalled the rear rebuilt propshaft and about to tackle the dreaded cardan front propshaft.
Last edited by OffroadFrance; Oct 24, 2013 at 01:21 PM.
Super Moderator
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,847
Likes: 106
From: Arkansas
If you are ever stuck for the propshaft parts for the cardan (Hookes) or the UJ's I have recently used these people who give a fast and excellent service. LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 2 1998 TO 2004 GKN HEAVY DUTY UJ FRONT PROPSHAFT REPAIR KIT | eBay They do the heavy duty GKN UJ's and rubber drive doughnut. I've just reinstalled the rear rebuilt propshaft and about to tackle the dreaded cardan front propshaft.
Baja
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 5,845
Likes: 368
From: Near Bordeaux, France
I re-installed the rear propshaft yesterday with no snags only tip being to fit all of the bolts to the flanges and rotoflex coupling loosely at first and don't tighten them up until everything is in line and hooked up. Fit the rotoflex coupling to the flange first with the bolts leaving them virtually undone with the nuts just started on the threads otherwise you cannot get the propshaft flange bolts in from the differential side. The only other 'fight' was removing the centering bearing from the propshaft which wouldn't budge with a puller so I used an electric jigsaw to cut through the bearing and finished off by grinding the last few thous with a Dremel grinder and a very fine metal cutter.
Today I started on the front propshaft and removed the shaft, cleaned it off and removed the circlips and some of the UJ's. Tomorrow I should finish the rebuild and re-install the propshaft. (I did other jobs as well like topping up the differentials and changing the plastic filler plugs to brass versions and also fitted the EGR blanking kit to the Pajero. I'll be glad when the trucks are finished to continue with the renovations on the house and stop 'er indoors moaning)
One other tip was buying a 1/2" drive 6 inch long extended x 9/16ths AF special socket for undoing/doing up the flange bolts - this made life easy and using it with an impact air wrench.
Today I started on the front propshaft and removed the shaft, cleaned it off and removed the circlips and some of the UJ's. Tomorrow I should finish the rebuild and re-install the propshaft. (I did other jobs as well like topping up the differentials and changing the plastic filler plugs to brass versions and also fitted the EGR blanking kit to the Pajero. I'll be glad when the trucks are finished to continue with the renovations on the house and stop 'er indoors moaning)
One other tip was buying a 1/2" drive 6 inch long extended x 9/16ths AF special socket for undoing/doing up the flange bolts - this made life easy and using it with an impact air wrench.
Last edited by OffroadFrance; Oct 21, 2013 at 05:05 PM.
Baja
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 5,845
Likes: 368
From: Near Bordeaux, France
Any reason to not use one? None that I can think of.
That said, I've been working on Land Rovers for around 35 years and have never used a torque wrench on propshaft fixings. Never had one come apart.
To use a torque wrench you'll need a crowfoot wrench on the end to get to the nuts. When you use anything that changes the pivot center line on the wrench, like a crowfoot will, you need to adjust your torque setting to get the desired torque.
Obviously I wouldn't bother. The torque on the fixings isn't that critical, as long as they are tight.
That said, I've been working on Land Rovers for around 35 years and have never used a torque wrench on propshaft fixings. Never had one come apart.
To use a torque wrench you'll need a crowfoot wrench on the end to get to the nuts. When you use anything that changes the pivot center line on the wrench, like a crowfoot will, you need to adjust your torque setting to get the desired torque.
Obviously I wouldn't bother. The torque on the fixings isn't that critical, as long as they are tight.
If it's any help I bought one of these specifically for unscrewing and screwing up flange bolts and nuts. They are excellent for torque wrenching the nuts insitu.
http://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/land-rover-d...2-dr-421-p.asp
Last edited by OffroadFrance; Oct 24, 2013 at 01:27 PM.
Baja
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 5,845
Likes: 368
From: Near Bordeaux, France
Hi
This website may interest some of you guys who do serious offroading.
Bailey Morris Limited - 4x4 Extreme Land Rover
This website may interest some of you guys who do serious offroading.
Bailey Morris Limited - 4x4 Extreme Land Rover
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Southern Maryland
So I inspected my flex coupling and it looked like this: imgur: the simple image sharer
Definitely looks a little worse for wear, though the driveshaft feels very solid. No play at all. If it is about to go out will there be any play in the shaft, or will I just have death wobble?
Definitely looks a little worse for wear, though the driveshaft feels very solid. No play at all. If it is about to go out will there be any play in the shaft, or will I just have death wobble?
3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Is it possible just to replace the front drive shaft with greasable joint at the transfer case end, rather than rebuild? Seems like its worth a little more for me to NOT screw it all up. My apologies if this is answered elsewhere- new to the forum...