My mechanic says my right side blower motor is bad and needs replaced. My fan won't turn off, the hot and cold both work, but the fan never shuts completely off when the dial is turned all the way off. How long can I drive like this? Will it cause more damage to something else if I don't get it replaced right away? What is the average this should cost me?

 

Hi, I have seen your message and I have the same problem in my 2001 RR. Fan blower keeps running, will not turn off, had to pull out the fuse. Can you please let me know what have you found or did with your problem. Thank you for your help!
Regards Jerry

 

If the blower motor runs, I can't see how it could be bad. sounds like a relay to me.(stuck contacts) The relays for the blower motors are in the fuse box under the hood.(bottom left hand corner on mine) Swap them and see if the other fan stays running. If it does, replace the bad relay. I am just learning to be an amateur Land Rover mechanic, so others on this site know far more than me. That being said, I am an electrician and I know if something stays on even when you turn it off, it is most likely a faulty switching mechanism and not the device itself. Hope that helps you. Good luck.
Wilson

 

Hi Wilson,
Thanks a lot for your message and advice. I try that, but fan is still running. I have a suspicion it could be a problem with HEVAC control unit in the dash. My LCD display is not displaying everything that should, not everything is readable and when I'm pushing bottons on the unit, LCD is changing intensity. I think I have to replace the HEVAC unit. Thanks again for your help.
Jerry

 

That would be my next step as well. If you have the rave manual to guide you, you can pull out the HVAC control with the wires still connected and use a meter or test light to see if the pin for the fans has constant power. If it does, I would try swapping it with a known good one.

 

Any updates on this?? I'm having the same problem. On my 99 RR, the problem is with the right side blower motor being stuck on high. Pulling the red wire (accessed by opening up the glove box) to the blower shuts down that motor and the rest of the system works ok - the left side blower motor speeds all work. Pulling the relay for the right side blower also works as a temporary fix. I'm guessing it's the blower motor resistor pack - assuming each blower has its own. Are they replaceable and how difficult is it to remove and replace the RH blower motor!?

 

I figured this one out. The blower motor has a small PCB mounted to a heat sink. One of the large 200W metal cased transistors shorted out. I was able to disassemble the motor and replace the shorted transistor. It's working fine now and the book icon turned off. The repair goes something like this:

The passenger side blower motor is fairly easy to access. Start by removing the glove box. The glove box release cable was a little stubborn, but it does pry out at an angle. Once the glove box is out, the blower motor can be accessed. The screw at the top is a little difficult to get at, but I was able to get it out. I tested the connector pins with a multimeter and found many of them shorted. I don't recall exactly which ones were shorted, but finding continuity between a few of them and having the blower motor stuck on high-speed is probably a good enough indication that you have the same problem I encountered. Once the blower motor assembly is out of the vehicle, you need to remove the motor itself to gain access to the PCB and heat-sink. Start by removing the thick wires that enter the back of the housing. There is a rectangular grommet which pries out which then allows your to disconnect the wires. Next, there are 3 rubber bushings around the motor. You can insert a flat screwdriver through the side of the plastic housing and pry up on the rubber bushings to inch the motor assembly out. Work around the housing and pry up on each one a little at a time and the motor + squirrel cage fan will come out. Next remove the heatsink/pcb assembly. Once the board is out, you can check for continuity between the transistor pins and the transistor metal housing. Hopefully at this point you'll find that they're shorted in which case following this repair procedure will get your blower working again. Next, you'll need to drill out the rivets which hold the large transistors to the heat sink. Next, desolder the transistor pins from the PCB and remove the transistors. Easier said than done if you do not have a de-soldering equipment. If you're not familiar with soldering/desoldering, you might want to read-up on this elsewhere on the internet. When I tested the transistors out of circuit, I found only one of them to be bad, but it's probably a good idea to replace both. The transistor is marked FW26025A. I used MJ11015 as a replacement. digikey.com sells this part for about $4 each. Use some new heat-sink compound and reassemble. I used bolts and nuts to replace the rivits. Reassemble everything else and you're done!

Sorry for the quick and dirty repair procedure write-up. I can elaborate if anyone has questions.

 

Blower motor for the heat/ac kept cutting on and off now doesn't come on, would this be the blower motor resistor and where is that located" Im a novis

 

Unlike many other vehicles, the Range Rover does not use a resistor pack. I'd be more suspicious of the relays in the fuse box under the hood. There are some good write-ups on diagnosing the blower relays. Try a google search.

 

actually you just look at the relay to see if its burnt or not. if it is then you need a new one along with the motor.

you can swap the abs or the heated windshield relay to get it working temporary if its cold out side.