I'm trying to find out what size socket I need to pull the rotors. It's a huge nut and would really rather know it before I pull the tires off my truck. It's larger than 1-1/2", I know that much, and I need to find one before I get too deep into the job. Any help??

 

If you are talking about the hub nut, then it's 2 1/16". You can use a channel lock or just get one of these.......Land Rover Parts, Accessories and Information

And get 4 of these lock washers.. Washer Lock (Part # FTC3179) - Land Rover bolts\clamps\brackets\washers from Atlantic British

Also get 4 new INNER hub seals. If you have the extra coin get some wheel bearings.

 

Thank you for the help!

 

You will also need IIRC a 13mm 12 point socket to remove the rotor bolts. I didn't have one so sprung for a 1/2 drive impact socket.

Word to the wise.... the caliper bolts (they had never been removed) had blue locktite on mine so after almost breaking a ratchet on the first one, I used a torch to heat the others and they came out fine. There also appeared to be locktite on the rotor bolts.

The workshop manual mentions not the locktite.

TG

 

The only trick with that hub socket is it doesn't work easily with a torque wrench when you go to reassemble the hub and preload the bearings. A proper socket that size is pricey, so the way I do it is with a small socket wrench or slider-bar through the holes that I torque from the side. I re-calculate the torque figures the same way one would if they were using a crowsfoot.

I beat the crap out of my wheel bearings so having them snugged up without denting the races, and then backed off so they don't bind is important.

Also watch out for grease compatibility. It might be a non-issue, but I've heard that the poly-urea greases (which are the best) aren't necessarily compatible with lithium complex greases.

 

Yes, if you buy new bolts, the bolts come pre-coated with the dried-on threadlocker. If you're re-installing the old bolts, they should be cleaned using a die, degreased and get new loctite. You should also chase all the threads in the holes with a tap. I think it takes at least two different taps to do that job, but I can't remember which ones, 10mmx1.25, 8mm I think. Maybe another one if you do the swivel ball seal bolt holes on the back of the housing. It's a long job the first time, but after you've done it once, everything makes sense and it will be easy any subsequent time.

 

Who uses torque values?
I used channel locks, tighten the hub nut down as tight as yuo can, spin the hub both directions half a dozen times, adjust pre-load as needed.

 

I joined this forum to see if I could get some help with my brake rotor replacement. I am impressed! Thank you all for your input. The information was excellent. I did the job yesterday and everything went quite well. I love my Disco and expectto keep it for a long time, so this site will be at the top of my favorites list.

 

Also while doing your brake job, plan on cleaning or replacing your wheel bearings at the same time.