My compressor is going out. Anyone made a kit to rebuild/repair one yet? I see a video on changing the desiccant.
I ordered the kit for the Hitachi and found it had been changed out already.
If anyone has a Hitachi laying around, let me know. Will need the bracket too.
If I have to buy one, which iteration is best? AMK/Arnott, Dunlop, Hitachi?

 

I'll answer my own question and let everyone know how things can go wrong!
My 2006 has had an AMK retrofit done by the dealer. Pump has a 2012 sticker on it.

On eBay and Amazon, there are seal kits now available that look like 4 seals. Two small rings and two larger ones for about $50. No desiccant in these kits, but I have seen a kit from the U.K for another $50 or so. Comes with the two cotton filters and desiccant beads. My desiccant looked a little dirty on one end from the deteriorating seals. I threw it into the oven at 275 for a while. I'm in Los Angeles, so our humidity is generally low. Beads are hard, white and likely Calcium vs the blue gel beads that you see. The pumps from newer Rovers, Mercedes W221 and BMW X5 seem to be the same with the exception of ancillary parts. The brackets can be removed and the bosses for the mount plate seems to exist on all of the castings. I assume they are tapped. I did notice the end plate on the motor would need to be swapped if it's not tapped. Some pictures show it as a raw casting. It's easily removeable though. I think you can buy any of the physically similar pumps. I don't know about the relay. They often come as a set when purchased new. It seems that people suggest putting a new relay in when replacing the pump.
The compressor comes apart easily until you realize the shaft for the electric motor needs to be pressed out. If you decide to wack on it with a hammer and punch, it will come out, but you might snap the side castings on the piston like I did. On closer inspection, the bearing came out of the piston. The bearing is too big to fit through the opening in the side of the piston. Not sure it can be pressed out. Not sure how you could stabilize the bearing. If you break it, that pretty much ends your day! The seals in my motor were toast, but the cylinder looked pretty good. Lots of grit and black powder inside from the seals. Prior owner let a bladder leak go too long.

An email to a company in China via Alibaba shows replacement piston for $45 and cylinder for $45. Total cost for both shipped is $121. I've had no problems getting parts from China. Arrives at my door in about a week. Payment via PayPal. There are complete pumps with all of the ancillaries including a sound deadening case available. I'm waiting on a price for that.
I might regret not shelling out the $650 for an Arnott with lifetime warranty, but have sunk a huge amount of money into this truck recently.

 

The bearing on the right side should have remained in the rod. I like to take things apart. I might have slightly mushroomed the shaft. I wonder if some heat would have helped or actually made it easier for the bearing to press though the side of the rod. Sometimes it works out, either way, it's a learning experience. And ultimately, It was toast anyway!
Some additional photos: