Full synthetic 5w20

 

That could be a partial explanation for what is happening. 5W20 is not recommended for the LR2, the normal oil recommendation is 5W30, which has retains more viscosity at higher temperatures. 5W20 is thinner at higher temperatures.

 

Just to be clear is it the low oil level warning? Or the low oil pressure warning light? They are different things.

The LR2 does not have an oil pressure sensor, but it DOES claculate oil pressure based on other parameters and it does have a red low pressure warning lamp.

The red oil pressure light could be very serious, wouldn't drive with that on. Running an oil grade lower than 5W30 might cause low oil pressure, or it could be caused by other things. See this thread...


https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...e-time-100392/

 

They may be different lights but they are both the same thing, they come from the oil level measurement system. There is no oil pressure sensor on the petrol LR2. only on the diesel.

 

I forget where I saw it, and could’ve sworn I got the 5W20 idea from my owner’s manual. After rechecking my manual it does say to use 5W30. I will drain and change to 30 and see if that alleviates the problem. You all are greatly appreciated.

 

On the 2008 3.2 LR2, there is no oil pressure sensor, but the ECU calculates the pressure based on VCT holding current and oil temp. There is an engine oil level sensor which also reads oil temp.

IIRC, a low oil level will generate a warning on the info screen. A low oil pressure will turn on the red warning light. Not sure if low level also turns on the red light.

But anyway, low visc oil could cause low oil pressure when warmed up, which the ECU will definitely notice and cause the red light to come on. Could also be the anti-drain back valve missing. Just saying it might low pressure, not low level. One quart low will not set off the warning.

 

Thor,

Your memory is correct

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33006.html

If the Anti Drain Valve rubber disc breaks then the oil is diverted back to the oil pan. So no leak but a significant loss in pressure.

The important thing to remember is that the Viscosity of Cold oil is significantly higher than warm oil and the oil pressure problem likely wouldn't show up for a cold start.

On my Volvo S80 with the same 3.2 as the LR2 that I bought used some Mechanic bypassed the pressure relief valve in my Oil filter cap. This will bypass the oil filter and it will increase the pressure but it is not a reasonable solution. I replaced the housing and I've never seen a Oil pressure problem on my S80. I also replaced the part that breaks on my LR2 and I've never seen a oil pressure problem there.

For reference look at the third picture in this thread (it shows the butchered housing)

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...p?f=31&t=87687


One last point I run Mobil 1 0W40 European formula in both of my 3.2's

Look at the actual viscosity at 100C and you discover that this Oil is barely above the 30W range and other users that run it that want a thick 40 wt complain that after extended use it thins out and enters the 30 wt zone.

For me this is perfect.

I wouldn't run a 20wt (maybe if I lived inside the artic circle I would)

And the best part is that Walmart sells it for 5 Quarts for $25

As far as I am concerned this is the best value for money available here.

Thanks

Paul

PS if you want to know if your anti drain valve is broken then drain the oil but don't touch the filter. When the oil stops dripping (let it drip for 30 minutes) put a different container under the oil pan and then remove the filter if you get more then 0.5 liters then its working. If you get a lot less then its not working and it is time to fix it.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...p?f=31&t=92091

 

I had my oil cooler replaced recently, looks like the filter housing is integral to that, so I should now have a new valve?

Also after an oil change, I top off to the dipstick upper line, run the motor for 30 secs, then top off again. Normally (on all cars) it will need an additional 1/3 to 1 qt due to oil filter volume. Assuming this procedure (that I do anyway) would also show whether the valve is working? Ie need to add more oil, then the valve is holding oil in the filter housing?

 

The valve in the filter housing is spring loaded. If you remove the filter the oil drains from the housing and into the oil pan. Topping off after replacing the oil filter is a good idea. It's also what you have to do on my DT466 diesel engine on my skoolie.

 

Merlin,

A new housing come with a new valve and you are all good!!!

I do like the test that you are proposing but I suggest that you need to wait 20 minutes to make sure that you are making an accurate measurement.

Good Luck

Paul


Edit: Vehicle must be level.
- Fill the engine until the dipstick is at Max.
- Start the Engine and run it for 30 seconds or more.
- Check the dipstick immediately after shutdown (it will be below the mid point) take a picture.
- Wait 20 Minutes check the oil level again. Take another picture.
- If the oil level is significantly higher on the second picture the anti drain valve is leaking or it has failed completely.
- Add oil based on the first picture if there is a difference.
- Replace the housing if the valve is broken