2008 lr2se u0121/u0129/b10a2
#1
#2
For those codes I believe that you need to reset the modules.
A Freel2 owner had this problem and fixed it by resetting the modules (the mechanic that read these codes should be able to reset the modules)
Quote from Boxiebrown on FREEL2
Its a long read but more things to try are included in the complete Thread
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33546.html
Post here what fixes your no start
Take care
Paul
A Freel2 owner had this problem and fixed it by resetting the modules (the mechanic that read these codes should be able to reset the modules)
Quote from Boxiebrown on FREEL2
It’s working.......not sure exactly why though
Plugged in my carsoft analyser same fault codes all,popped up so I delved a bit deeper into each fault and after I found and reset the “engine control module” fault the engine started first time easily.......still had the HDC fault so went into ABS and Body Control Module faults and reset each one in turn and now the HDC is available (and I assume working).
Plugged in my carsoft analyser same fault codes all,popped up so I delved a bit deeper into each fault and after I found and reset the “engine control module” fault the engine started first time easily.......still had the HDC fault so went into ABS and Body Control Module faults and reset each one in turn and now the HDC is available (and I assume working).
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33546.html
Post here what fixes your no start
Take care
Paul
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ThorInc (04-25-2021)
#3
Well I have erased the codes before and while the code is erased shortly after I get a crank but not a full start. Im assuming thats because the modules aren't up yet and once they wake up the code comes back and no crank at all. How can I reset the module is it different from just erasing the codes? I was also thinking about checking for an open circuit in the CAN Harness which can be done with an Multimeter my question is how. Common sense tells me I would go to the ABS Module first and inspect the positive and negative points to ensure the module is receiving proper power. After that I can test the can harness to measure for 60 ohms being everything works currently 120 ohms meaning there is a short. Im stumped at what part on the CAN Harness can I place my multimeter leads on to obtain a reading?
#5
#6
Also can be helpful to touch the two battery leads together before re-connecting, to help drain any capacitors which might be keeping volatile memory alive.
#7
#8
If in doubt take it to the FLAPS and have them put it on their health tester. Or you can buy one of your own, I never bothered since I live in socal and can milk tired batteries on most cars for about 7 years if I'm careful with them. But if it's cold out, you need a healthy battery.
You can also check yourself if it's not a sealed battery by fully charging, letting it sit (disconnected) overnight, and then checking voltage and each cell's gravity.
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