2010 LR2 .25A draw kills battery
Hi everyone,
I purchased this clean LR2 a couple of months ago. After a week or 2 not driving it the battery went dead so I revived it and worked to find the problem.
it has a pretty high .25A residual draw with everything off so I identified the accessory systems I thought might be the cause and pulled the fuses but can't find the problem. I doubt .25A for the alarm or other memory retention functions is normal?
(Everything audio related, seat heaters, etc)
I hesitate further pulling fuses to the main systems like the engine and trans control systems without advise so I don't cause any damage to those systems, or knowing if damage is even possible by doing that.
Has anyone had this type of issue and could point me in the right direction? I would sure appreciate suggestions or possible causes. Thank You!
I purchased this clean LR2 a couple of months ago. After a week or 2 not driving it the battery went dead so I revived it and worked to find the problem.
it has a pretty high .25A residual draw with everything off so I identified the accessory systems I thought might be the cause and pulled the fuses but can't find the problem. I doubt .25A for the alarm or other memory retention functions is normal?
(Everything audio related, seat heaters, etc)
I hesitate further pulling fuses to the main systems like the engine and trans control systems without advise so I don't cause any damage to those systems, or knowing if damage is even possible by doing that.
Has anyone had this type of issue and could point me in the right direction? I would sure appreciate suggestions or possible causes. Thank You!
The parasitic draw should be less than 24ma (0.024A). There are a ton of Youtube videos on finding the culprit.
For the LR2 specifically, the bluetooth module is a pattern failure as Merlin indicated. If you search online, you'll find other offenders like the hood latch, tailgate latch, sat radio, etc.
If you have a thermal imager, that's a clever way to find hot spots in the fuse/relay boxes when the engine is off. There's also this gizmo on my Amazon Wish List (Santa, are you listening) that allows you to replace a fuse and use the loop with your clamp meter to measure the current flow.
For the LR2 specifically, the bluetooth module is a pattern failure as Merlin indicated. If you search online, you'll find other offenders like the hood latch, tailgate latch, sat radio, etc.
If you have a thermal imager, that's a clever way to find hot spots in the fuse/relay boxes when the engine is off. There's also this gizmo on my Amazon Wish List (Santa, are you listening) that allows you to replace a fuse and use the loop with your clamp meter to measure the current flow.
Thanks, I sure appreciate the replies and links! I'm encouraged since it's been 25 years or so and much simpler automotive electrics the last time I had to track down a draw, the complexity on this modern-ish lr2 was quite intimidating.
That fuse loop tester looks great and they even have a model that will directly read the draw instead of using a current clamp, sweet, will purchase one of those and look into the thermal imager and report back.
That fuse loop tester looks great and they even have a model that will directly read the draw instead of using a current clamp, sweet, will purchase one of those and look into the thermal imager and report back.
Try the simple voltmeter method first. It is very easy to do, at least with the fuses in the engine compartment. The only problem with it is that the LR2 has fuses spread out all over the #*I&$ truck so it's not easy to find them and you need someone to help you monitor the voltmeter as you try each one.
My LR2 would occasionally get angry and drain the battery but doing a hard reset and changing the battery every 4 years would keep it happy.
To fix the root cause I disabled my Satellite Radio module and my Bluetooth Module.
The satellite radio module is always connected to battery power and it only goes into a low power sleep mode if the command from the MOST ring is received and understood.
If you want to disable both you will need two loop backs. Without the loop back the stereo won't work.
It isn't hard to do
Take a look at these links
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic36...ight=loop+back
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic36724.html
good luck
Paul
PS for me the Bluetooth module would cause the stereo to turn off and then back on again occasionally before I replaced it. If you know what a watchdog time is then you will understand. When I decide I had enough of the Bluetooth it was resetting every ~30 seconds and extremely annoying.
To fix the root cause I disabled my Satellite Radio module and my Bluetooth Module.
The satellite radio module is always connected to battery power and it only goes into a low power sleep mode if the command from the MOST ring is received and understood.
If you want to disable both you will need two loop backs. Without the loop back the stereo won't work.
It isn't hard to do
Take a look at these links
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic36...ight=loop+back
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic36724.html
good luck
Paul
PS for me the Bluetooth module would cause the stereo to turn off and then back on again occasionally before I replaced it. If you know what a watchdog time is then you will understand. When I decide I had enough of the Bluetooth it was resetting every ~30 seconds and extremely annoying.
When the battery is drained the Voltage can dip too low while the starter motor is engaged.
The LR2 has a lot of modules that can latch up and then not shut down upon command when this happens.
I did get a warning light for the headlight leveling module once but it was due to a drained battery and after disconnecting the battery and charging it and then reconnecting everything was fine (Note: I may have replaced that battery soon after that)
Don't forget to do a hard reset (disconnect both leads at the battery and allow the Voltage of the LR2 to drop to Zero then reconnect)
And your LR2 may never go into sleep mode unless you lock it (which is difficult to do unless everything is closed)
The sleep mode will take sometime post locking.
Good luck
Paul
PS don't forget to bypass the fiber-optic connection of the modules with the loop back and also remove the electrical connection.
The LR2 has a lot of modules that can latch up and then not shut down upon command when this happens.
I did get a warning light for the headlight leveling module once but it was due to a drained battery and after disconnecting the battery and charging it and then reconnecting everything was fine (Note: I may have replaced that battery soon after that)
Don't forget to do a hard reset (disconnect both leads at the battery and allow the Voltage of the LR2 to drop to Zero then reconnect)
And your LR2 may never go into sleep mode unless you lock it (which is difficult to do unless everything is closed)
The sleep mode will take sometime post locking.
Good luck
Paul
PS don't forget to bypass the fiber-optic connection of the modules with the loop back and also remove the electrical connection.


