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2010 LR2 .25A draw kills battery

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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 07:44 PM
  #1  
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Default 2010 LR2 .25A draw kills battery

Hi everyone,
I purchased this clean LR2 a couple of months ago. After a week or 2 not driving it the battery went dead so I revived it and worked to find the problem.
it has a pretty high .25A residual draw with everything off so I identified the accessory systems I thought might be the cause and pulled the fuses but can't find the problem. I doubt .25A for the alarm or other memory retention functions is normal?
(Everything audio related, seat heaters, etc)
I hesitate further pulling fuses to the main systems like the engine and trans control systems without advise so I don't cause any damage to those systems, or knowing if damage is even possible by doing that.
Has anyone had this type of issue and could point me in the right direction? I would sure appreciate suggestions or possible causes. Thank You!
 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 08:53 PM
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If you have an HSE model, the bluetooth module is known to remain on under certain conditions.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 09:11 PM
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LR2driver's Avatar
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The parasitic draw should be less than 24ma (0.024A). There are a ton of Youtube videos on finding the culprit.

For the LR2 specifically, the bluetooth module is a pattern failure as Merlin indicated. If you search online, you'll find other offenders like the hood latch, tailgate latch, sat radio, etc.

If you have a thermal imager, that's a clever way to find hot spots in the fuse/relay boxes when the engine is off. There's also this gizmo on my Amazon Wish List (Santa, are you listening) that allows you to replace a fuse and use the loop with your clamp meter to measure the current flow.

Amazon Amazon



 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 10:26 PM
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https://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Paras...%20repair%20it.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 11:57 PM
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Thanks, I sure appreciate the replies and links! I'm encouraged since it's been 25 years or so and much simpler automotive electrics the last time I had to track down a draw, the complexity on this modern-ish lr2 was quite intimidating.
That fuse loop tester looks great and they even have a model that will directly read the draw instead of using a current clamp, sweet, will purchase one of those and look into the thermal imager and report back.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2022 | 10:21 AM
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Try the simple voltmeter method first. It is very easy to do, at least with the fuses in the engine compartment. The only problem with it is that the LR2 has fuses spread out all over the #*I&$ truck so it's not easy to find them and you need someone to help you monitor the voltmeter as you try each one.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2022 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by flybd5
The only problem with it is that the LR2 has fuses spread out all over the #*I&$ truck so it's not easy to find them and you need someone to help you monitor the voltmeter as you try each one.
Yep thanks @flybd5 , I did the this hard part 1st, had 8-10 fuses in the trunk out in one go that I thought might be causing it (a few Audio related and seat warmers) and one audio fuse from the passenger side box. The major box in the engine compartment to what I thought might be related to how the vehicle runs I'm still working up the nerve to do lol. Will tackle that next.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2022 | 03:48 PM
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My LR2 would occasionally get angry and drain the battery but doing a hard reset and changing the battery every 4 years would keep it happy.

To fix the root cause I disabled my Satellite Radio module and my Bluetooth Module.

The satellite radio module is always connected to battery power and it only goes into a low power sleep mode if the command from the MOST ring is received and understood.

If you want to disable both you will need two loop backs. Without the loop back the stereo won't work.

It isn't hard to do

Take a look at these links

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic36...ight=loop+back

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic36724.html


good luck

Paul


PS for me the Bluetooth module would cause the stereo to turn off and then back on again occasionally before I replaced it. If you know what a watchdog time is then you will understand. When I decide I had enough of the Bluetooth it was resetting every ~30 seconds and extremely annoying.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2022 | 05:45 PM
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Thank you @p_gill , I will get on that asap, I pulled a Sat fuse in the trunk among others and it didn't seem to make a difference but I will follow those tutorials and disable both sat & bt (and probably everything else I won't use) for peace of mind.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2022 | 09:14 PM
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When the battery is drained the Voltage can dip too low while the starter motor is engaged.

The LR2 has a lot of modules that can latch up and then not shut down upon command when this happens.

I did get a warning light for the headlight leveling module once but it was due to a drained battery and after disconnecting the battery and charging it and then reconnecting everything was fine (Note: I may have replaced that battery soon after that)

Don't forget to do a hard reset (disconnect both leads at the battery and allow the Voltage of the LR2 to drop to Zero then reconnect)

And your LR2 may never go into sleep mode unless you lock it (which is difficult to do unless everything is closed)

The sleep mode will take sometime post locking.

Good luck

Paul

PS don't forget to bypass the fiber-optic connection of the modules with the loop back and also remove the electrical connection.




 
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