What is that orange stuff on the battery terminal?

 

‘I have no idea, I didn’t post that picture.

 

Connections

1 B+ (Positive terminal of the Battery) on the LR2 this is covered by a plastic cap

2 Solenoid

3 Switched B+ When the Solenoid is activated terminal 3 injects over 100 Amps to the battery thru the braded copper wire

How it works

a) A voltage is applied to #2 and a current of about 30 Amps is injected

b) The Solenoid moves the starter gear to Engauge with the flywheel

c) Connection #1 and #2 are joined together and the starter motor starts spinning and about 300 Amps are injected (this happens at the same time as the previous step)

d) Engine starts, solenoid is disconnected from the Voltage at #2 and a spring returns it to the rest position which disconnects #1 and #3




This is for a Bosch Starter, if your starter has been replaced it may not have the copper braded wire.

If you want to know why Bosh didn't use a more typical insulated stranded wire you will need to ask them


The next time you change you oil take a look and you will see something very similar

Note: it is possible that BOSCH found it easier to just braid the wires used for the motor winding

I've never made starter motors so I can't say for certain

 

If you give it a whack, aim for the solenoid, not the starter housing.

 

That's the small cylinder. The one that does NOT have a sticker saying "Do Not Strike with Hammer"

 

The brakes are fine, there's just no boost vacuum since the engine won't start. They still work, just have to press much harder. They'll return to normal after the engine starts.

 

I’m about to go outside and try that now. The smaller cylinder with the 3 screws😉 Thank you so much ☺️

 

It didn’t work so I feel that the starter is completely dead.

 

Slim,

Based on your posts I thought you were having someone else do the work.

If you are doing it then Verify that you have 12 volts at location #1 (you will need to pry off the plastic cap.

Be careful this is connected directly to Battery + which is why it has a cap.

Plastic tools would be a good choice for this if you haven't replaced a starter before. (I am only talking about removing the cap to expose #1)


Assuming that you have 12 Volts the next step is to check Pin #2 it should be 0V and if a helper presses the start button then it should go the 12 Volts.

If you pass both tests then replace the starter.


Let us know

Thanks

Paul

 

Hey Paul, I had someone whack it for me. However, nothing seems to be working but I feel it’s definitely the starter so Monday morning it’s going to the shop. When I try to crank it now I hear a little click noise.