3.2 MAP sensor location
Just replaced the thermostat on my 2008 LR2 which required removal of the intake manifold thanks to the instructions posted by p_gill.
Removing the manifold was not easy but got it done and the job finished, or so I thought.
Now I have a CEL and 3 codes P0069, P0108, and P0444. I am sure that I missed something. Looks like all of the connectors removed were reattached. I cannot for the life of me figure out where the MAP sensor is located. The downloaded service manual clearly shows a closeup of the sensor but it doesn't make any sense where it is supposed to live.
Can someone give a hint where to look? I am hoping to not have to remove the intake again but it sure will be easier the next time ::/
Thanks for any help.
Removing the manifold was not easy but got it done and the job finished, or so I thought.
Now I have a CEL and 3 codes P0069, P0108, and P0444. I am sure that I missed something. Looks like all of the connectors removed were reattached. I cannot for the life of me figure out where the MAP sensor is located. The downloaded service manual clearly shows a closeup of the sensor but it doesn't make any sense where it is supposed to live.
Can someone give a hint where to look? I am hoping to not have to remove the intake again but it sure will be easier the next time ::/
Thanks for any help.

Most likely you broke the latch for the connector and you will need to replace the connector
The Volvo part number is 30658215 and you need the right tools to replace it
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...658215#p525023
Good luck
Paul
Thanks Paul. Yes, the latch is broken off that connector. I don’t know how it was holding on as it was “pre broken”. I think I will pull the manifold because I have a feeling there is also a problem with the vacuum hose to the purge valve. There is no way to access it in place. Plus it will make it easier to replace the plug.
And to top it all off the Haldex pump o-rings failed and pumped out all the fluid. So now there is is an HDC fault and the car locks up in reverse. I finally got it to back up to get into the garage and up on the Quick jacks.
Cant even get one thing fixed before something else fails.
And to top it all off the Haldex pump o-rings failed and pumped out all the fluid. So now there is is an HDC fault and the car locks up in reverse. I finally got it to back up to get into the garage and up on the Quick jacks.
Cant even get one thing fixed before something else fails.
Last edited by SteveinRI; Nov 5, 2022 at 05:45 PM.
I have a Liter of Volvo fluid coming and will reach out to Jake Kaplans parts department to see if I can get the o-rings. Otherwise I may just spring for the big buck replacement pump. Seems silly for a few bucks of o-rings but there doesn’t seem to be any other option at this point.
Stll haven’t dealt with the problems that resulted from the thermostat replacement.
Project complete. Turns out the connector was not broken (upon closer inspection). However, the rubber ear was bunched up and would not let the plug go on all the way. So I just pushed and squeezed and it finally snapped in place.
The O-rings from McMaster came in (all 75 of them), Got 2.5mm x 31mm ID and 2.5mm x 33mm ID. Fit perfectly and (so far) no more Haldex leak. Found a quart of Fuji fluid on eBay for $38 bucks and arrived next day out of Mass.
Next I resealed the vacuum pump with a Volvo kit. Talk about a simple job. Didn’t need to remove the battery case, just loosen the AC bracket Lots of oily dirt to clean off but the whole thing took maybe a half hour.
Next project, upper engine mount.
The O-rings from McMaster came in (all 75 of them), Got 2.5mm x 31mm ID and 2.5mm x 33mm ID. Fit perfectly and (so far) no more Haldex leak. Found a quart of Fuji fluid on eBay for $38 bucks and arrived next day out of Mass.
Next I resealed the vacuum pump with a Volvo kit. Talk about a simple job. Didn’t need to remove the battery case, just loosen the AC bracket Lots of oily dirt to clean off but the whole thing took maybe a half hour.
Next project, upper engine mount.
If the upper mount is torn (the torque mount by the coolant res), then odds are that at least one lower mount is bad too. If you don't fix that, the new torque mount won't last long.
New mounts will probably improve shifting, so you have that to look forward to.
New mounts will probably improve shifting, so you have that to look forward to.
Project complete. Turns out the connector was not broken (upon closer inspection). However, the rubber ear was bunched up and would not let the plug go on all the way. So I just pushed and squeezed and it finally snapped in place.
The O-rings from McMaster came in (all 75 of them), Got 2.5mm x 31mm ID and 2.5mm x 33mm ID. Fit perfectly and (so far) no more Haldex leak. Found a quart of Fuji fluid on eBay for $38 bucks and arrived next day out of Mass.
Next I resealed the vacuum pump with a Volvo kit. Talk about a simple job. Didn’t need to remove the battery case, just loosen the AC bracket Lots of oily dirt to clean off but the whole thing took maybe a half hour.
Next project, upper engine mount.
The O-rings from McMaster came in (all 75 of them), Got 2.5mm x 31mm ID and 2.5mm x 33mm ID. Fit perfectly and (so far) no more Haldex leak. Found a quart of Fuji fluid on eBay for $38 bucks and arrived next day out of Mass.
Next I resealed the vacuum pump with a Volvo kit. Talk about a simple job. Didn’t need to remove the battery case, just loosen the AC bracket Lots of oily dirt to clean off but the whole thing took maybe a half hour.
Next project, upper engine mount.


