I just had an interesting day trying to remove the blower motor on my 2008 LR2. We followed all the instructions but the motor would not come out. Similarly to what happened to a man who put videos of his efforts on YouTube, the fan and motor separated from the rear cover. We tried to remove that and it would not budge. The mechanic looked at the driver's side mount and found there is a screw holding down the cover and preventing it from rotating and coming out. That could not possibly be installed by another mechanic, it is way too difficult to do that. It is almost impossible to get it out, we gave up after eight hours of trying.

It appears that this must have been a security screw installed by the factory in assembly, and some poor sod forgot to take it out. Has anyone run into this before? If so, how did you deal with it?

 

I maybe wrong here but I believe I read a post or two re the Freelander 2/LR2 blower assembly, that it require a "custom" or special tool for removal.

This came up in my Google search but I did not go through the actual results. Also, I am not sure if this is you actual issue?
https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=...aaFDZUQ4dUDCAs

 

I bought that tool weeks ago. Thanks. That's not the issue.

 

I haven’t replaced mine yet

Here is a link that might help (if you haven’t already seen it)

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33161.html

let us know what you find out

thanks

Paul

 

One more video (its for a Volvo but the LR2 is based on the P3 Volvo)

go to 11:27

is that the bolt you are looking for?

 

There's the @#%@#$*&@#$~!! problem! It's that bolt at 11:31 in the video!!! Why in the hell would they put that in there if the motor housing already has a tab and lock design??? IDIOTS! They never put that into the service manual!!! I swear, the EU must be sooo happy these fools voted to get out....

Thanks for the info.

 

Did you solve this problem?

 

Yes, but I haven't completed the work. There is indeed a screw holding the blower motor rear housing in place. It is located a few degrees clockwise from the locking tab. It seems stupid, since the locking mechanism is pretty strong in and of itself. The screw can only be reached by removing the instrument panel. I suppose the other option is from underneath but you have to remove the accelerator and brake pedals and other hardware. From a Russian video I saw, it's much, much easier from the top. I am going to try to tackle this this weekend, but I have other projects that take precedence at the moment.

None of this is in the maintenance manual. Par for the course for LR.