I've had this new part (LR005490) on hand for a while and just got around to installing it. There are several Youtube how-to videos and I'm attaching a link to the best one I found below. Most of the regulars on this forum have already replaced theirs, so this is for the lurkers who have yet to do it.

First, I disconnected the battery. Don't want any sparks.

On the passenger side of the fuel rail, a T25 cap is removed to reveal a schraeder valve underneath, though you can't see the valve because of the way it's positioned. Place a rag underneath and insert a small flat head screwdriver, pressing down on the pin to release any pressure in the rail. In my case, there was virtually no pressure or fuel spillage because the car had been sitting overnight for 12 hours. The engine was stone cold when I started working on it (the way I like it).

On the driver's side of the fuel rail, remove the wire connector and place some rags underneath to catch any fuel that spills out. There isn't much clearance to remove the T25 bolt, but I have a tiny wrench and bit set and thought I would be fine. My ah-ha moment was that as the bolt comes out, the clearance space gets smaller and I could not remove the wrench or the bolt. The T25 bit was too long (25mm), so I had to screw the bolt back in just to remove the wrench. But once the bolt is loose, you can patiently unscrew it with your fingers.

If I were to do this again, I would have purchased a low-profile mini bit set where the bits are only 15mm in length. I found one on Amazon. The wrench is not great quality, but it's worth getting just for the stubby bit set that you can use in any 1/4" mini wrench for those special jobs with little room to work:


Replacing the sensor was easy and very little fuel spilled out, unlike the videos I watched where they must have driven the car recently. There was a tiny spark on the battery terminal when I reconnected it, which is why you should clean the area where any fuel spilled and let it evaporate for 20+ minutes before reconnecting power.

I checked the fuel pressure on my OBD2 device and it was normal at ~55psi (up to 61psi on cold starting). All good.

Note there are two variations of this sensor, and I think the only difference is the mounting hole for a nearby wire harness retainer clip (which is unused on my vehicle). See photo below which show the corresponding Volvo part numbers, and look at what's currently installed to make a choice. My replacement sensor was a Bosch unit.

 

Shop manuals always tell you to that and I rarely do (hate having to re-program stuff). But this one of those times you really need to. Also if you're working on or around the starter on any vehicle.

 

There is some debate about whether you remove the positive or negative side of the battery. You should remove the negative cable, correct?

 

Disconnect the negative first. Connect the negative last.

 

Yes. If you accidentally touch the loose pos cable to any part of the frame or block (or anything grounded to them) while neg is still attached it will be bad.

 

That's what I thought, as well. In the video I posted above, he removes the positive cable when he should have removed the negative. Aside from that, the rest of the video is helpful.

 

I recently had my engine replaced with a used engine that came with sensors which apparently are the original items. After a few weeks of driving with this replacement engine, the engine light came on with code P0193 (high fuel pressure). There was also some intermittent hesitation while driving.

The fuel pressure should be 55psi after the car is warmed up. I charted the live data on my handy OBD2 app (Torque Pro) and observed that the pressure would sometimes jump around with spikes well above normal. I discussed with my local shop and they indicated this is most likely a problem with the sensor when you see erratic readings like this. A true fuel pressure problem would tend to sustain an abnormal reading for a longer period of time. Also, my fuel trims are in single digits which also suggest the actual fuel pressure is okay because the trims are not trying to compensate for a fuel delivery issue.

I replaced the sensor and the fuel pressure is now back to normal. Following are the before & after screenshots from my app. The horiz scale on the chart represents ~10 seconds of time.

 

Are you using the generic Fuel Pressure display graph and selection in Torque Pro?

 

Yes, I selected Fuel Pressure from the list of predefined indicators in the app. There is another predefined indicator for Fuel Rail Pressure, but that does not receive any data for my vehicle. I did not create this display using a custom PID, although I have created custom displays for other things.

I keep an OBD2 bluetooth dongle in my glovebox (VeePeak OBDCheck VP11) that I plug into the OBD2 port whenever I want to see what's going on using the app. I also have a second app on my phone, OBD Fusion, but I find myself using Torque Pro more. This is handy when I'm out driving since I don't carry my dedicated OBD2 reader around with me. Nothing more annoying that seeing your engine light come on and not knowing what's going on.

 

Got mine running, thanks! I now need to recalibrate the display scale to really zero in on the range. Right now, it's almost a straight line right around 55 psi by my estimation.