My car is now undrivable!IT has codes P301 ETC AND ALSO p061a.
iT IS RUNNING SO ROUGH CANT EVEN DRIVE IT.i replaced all the spark plugs, the coils are good also. It also says something about cold start ignition timing performance! Can anyone help me? I HAVE also cleaned the air flow sensor and then replaced. It has a new fuel pump and it worked good after that but started running rough so did new spark plugs and now it runs worse!!

 

Model, year, and mileage?

 

Come back when you calm down and can give us information needed to help. The codes you have are generic from a generic ODBII reader. Code P301 does not exist and P061a is not even listed in the service manual.

 

2008 Lr2 HSE 150,986! I appreciate any help!!

 

Also, the P 061a was when I checked the powertrain control module's. and it also read Internal control module torque performance!! And, I am pretty calm!!

 

Could be many things. One thing to check is the fuel pressure since the fuel pressure sensor is a pattern failure on a high mileage LR2. Most OBD2 readers will display live data. It should be around 61psi when starting cold, and then fall to 55psi after warmed up.

 

I just want to thank ou for your help and you actually being nice! I am obviously a girl and really new to this and trying to fix by myself so i truly appreciate your kindness! Can you tell me how to check the fuel pressure?

 

Check the manual or screen options on your OBD2 reader for live data. This allows you to select from a list of items (e.g., RPM) that will be displayed in realtime. Select displays for the battery voltage and the fuel pressure. When the engine is idling, you can see these values as the engine runs.

The battery voltage should be between 13.6 and 14.4 volts. If it's lower than this range, you might have a bad alternator. Low voltage can masquerade as different problems since so many of the electronic components rely on full voltage to operate correctly.

As indicated in my previous post, the fuel pressure should be 61 psi for a cold engine, and then 55 after warmup.

These are simple diagnostics that start a process of elimination.

 

I'm going to add a correction.

All pinpoint tests in the JLR workshop manual call for a confirmation of a good electrical source.
1. With the engine not running, the battery reading should be 12.6 v.
2. With the engine running, the dynamic generator will output a charging voltage based on "need". It should be between 13.6 and 14.4 v.

Also, you stated the plugs were replaced. The MAF was cleaned. The fuel pump replaced... You mention the coils are good. Did you pull them and have them cleaned? Or replaced? Put back in the right order?
Nonetheless, this hunt, peck, replace methodology may have worked in the past... BUT it is no way to deal with the repair and maintenance of a modern vehicle. But now that it is done, please be sure all fittings are tight. All electrical connectors are clean and snug.

The modern vehicle's engine is managed by the ECM. It requires a series of inputs from a variety of systems in order to manage the running of the engine properly. Disconnected MAFs, sensors, vacuum leaks, will equate to running issues.

Therefore, as suggested by flydb5 , it is REALLY important to have the proper ODBII codes. Please source a reader that is able to read Jaguar Land Rover codes. And then we can begin to get you on the right path. Any other manner of dealing with this is merely coincidence and luck. And typically costs more money and time.

 

Which part was corrected?