I can assure that running a good synthetic will go a very long ways towards engine longevity. If you plan to keep the car much longer than a three-year lease period I would absolutely do that. Use a good filter too, which has the correct pressure bypass for your engine.

And obviously change both at an appropriate interval.

Failed engine internals in most modern engines anywhere below 200-300k miles is usually due to abuse... bad oil, wrong OCI, overheating. If you operate in a dusty environment a good air filter is critical too, and must be changed on time.

Should go without saying... if the timing belt/chain has a replacement interval, do it. Use OEM or known high quality parts. Do some some forum research, some cars are prone to belt/chain failure even if they have no mfg replacement interval... in that case take the advice of those who learned the hard way as to a reasonable interval. If you can verify that your engine in NOT an interference design, and it has no factory replacement interval then you can take the chance since it probably won't hurt the engine if the belt/chain fails.

Obviously racing or redlining the engine on a regular basis won't help either. I'm not afraid to use the full performance of any of my vehicles but I don't stomp on it just to stomp on it either. Current cars are pushing 200K and I've owned cars over 200K with no engine mechanical problems. Been running Mobile-1 for 25 years or so.

 

I only use highest quality, meet the OE spec, all fluids full synthetic.
And I change the engine oil at 5k km intervals. Gear boxes at 2 year intervals. Coolant, Brake and PS at 2 year intervals.
Every fluid change warrants a filter change at the same time.
So yes, i concur. But it didn’t do a thing in avoiding the “timing chain out of alignment” situation.

In comparison, that 4.2 supercharged in the xkr purrs and growls at 150000. And she visits the redline more often than I wish to attest.

 

Personally, I have used Amsoil for two decades+, I have never been disappointed but I also don't drive the full kms as marketed by Amsoil before an oil change. On a different but related note, Amsoil Canada has gotten ridiculously expensive, ridiculously expensive (worth repeating ).

EDIT: They are not even close to being competitive price wise, I suspect they have lost a lot of business since the covid supply chain issues and the war in Ukraine. So, they might just be hammering their diehards.....I will seriously consider Mobil 1.

 

Timing chain...not a belt. Yes it is a ford engine. Yes it will need to be replaced. A good mechanic shop can replace it...from about 2-3 thousand....LR dealer is charging me 6k this week...NOT happy at all. My disco is a 2017 with only 59,600 miles only, well maintained. LR cannot explain the premature failure.

2017 LF Disco
2.0L w/ turbo -4cyl.
Houston, Tx

 

Search car-parts.com for a better priced used engine.

 

FYI - I have the same car at 80k miles - a big concern of mine is the timing chain failure and subsequent carnage - basically I've resigned myself to ensuring frequent oil changes as infrequent oil changes have been correlated with premature timing chain failure. Concur with everything stated by all the other contributors. Here's a ink for some context (2015 Evoque but same engine as LR2 - Ford 2.0L Ecoboost Turbo):

https://atlanticmotorcar.com/casestu...hain-sprocket/

Sorry this is all a bit after the fact info - hope your Ford shop gets your son back on the road again. Interested to know how it works/worked out.

Thx

Jim

 

If lubrication plays a role in the timing chain failure you need to be using a quality additive like Liqui-Moly's MoS2 (add every oil change) or their new Ceratec (add at or just before 30,000 miles). My engine has 190k+ and runs like a well-oiled sewing machine. I even get compliments from mechanics on how smoothly it runs.

 

True enough… but don’t you have the volvo power plant? There are many many reports of premature timing chain failures on Ford ecoboost powerplants.

 

Yes, I haven't heard of issues with the 3.2 i6, timing chain or really another major mechanical problems (unless you overheat it). My buddy has a Volvo with the 3.2, we both tow in mountains and the engines are fine at 150k+.

 

Quick update on my son's car: the St Thomas Ford dealership/service department won't work on the car because it's not a Ford. We finally found a mechanic on the island that took a quick look at the car and said it needs a new engine. My son doesn't want to invest in spending money to ship the engine to USVI, have the mechanic replace it and still potentially have other issues with the car and really have no place to service the car on island. Lesson learned: do not bring a car to USVI with no on island dealership/service department. Also, we have determined it is an interference engine.

If we were to ship the car back to Florida (about $1,500) does anyone know a general ball park figure on replacing the engine? I understand we would have to purchase a used engine and then pay to have it installed. Littlewhitedisco mentioned $2k-$3k, but their LR dealer is charging $6k. Is it worth putting this kind of money into the car at this point? Don't think my son can get much on the island for scrap or parts on the car.

He did purchase a Land Rover code reader thing and it kicked out the following codes:
P0016
P0016 is the OBD-II generic code indicating that the camshaft position sensor for bank 1 does not correlate to the signal from the crankshaft position sensor.
What causes the P0016 code?
The camshaft timing is out of position due to the timing chain jumped teeth.
The camshaft phaser is out of position due to problems with phaser.
The oil has flow to the phaser is impeded from having an incorrect oil viscosity or partly clogged passages.
The Oil Control Valve (OCV) has a restriction in the OCV filter.

P2544
A P2544 indicates there is a malfunction with signal input in the powertrain control module (PCM) or one of its related control modules.
What the P2544 code means
The P2544 code means an input signal malfunction has been detected in a powertrain-related control module, most notably (but not limited to) the transmission control module and PCM itself.
Problems with electrical input signals will affect the vehicle's drivability

He also got P0117, P0134, P0341 - which seem to be related to the camshaft.

Thanks again for any guidance. It's a hard pill to swallow to spend so much on a quality used car and have to replace the engine after 1 year of ownership.