Umm... to disable the satellite radio you can pull fuse FD3, item 7 in the Aux Junction Box 4, or remove/disconnect the sat radio module from the left rear mount, behind the left rear quarter trim panel.

 

The MOST ring needs each module to relay the signal.


This link explains how you can bypass a module with a female loop back

https://mca.electricmura.ro/en/blog-...-troubleshoot/

If you unplug and pull the fuse you will break the MOST instead of disabling the module


as I pointed out in the link that I attached. I did this successfully for the Bluetooth module (everything worked except the Bluetooth) but I was looking for the Satellite Module which I think is on the opposite side of my LR2.

Take care

Paul

 

Considering that the sat radio module is an option that only comes with NAS cars, I would doubt that it would break MOST if you disabled it or took it out, but if it's bad and draining the battery, it's worth a shot.

 

As long as you remove the Fiber Optic cable and put in the Loop it will work fine

Here is the way that I think about it

1. The modules are not shut down with a relay instead they are sent a message that puts them in a low power consumption mode

2. if the module doesn't respond to the message then it can stay awake (just like leaving a light on except no visible indication)

3. Modern electronics are know to have problem like this if the Voltage dips (i.e. Old battery and the engine is cranking, measure the Voltage you will see it)

4. A latched Module may not shut down and depending on what got latched it may not function at all

5. To unlatch the module the Voltage may need to go to zero (Disconnect the battery, this absolutely will cure the battery drain on my LR2, at least temporarily, so I just replace the battery)

6. The only "Module" that I have been able to latch up and get an error code for is the headlight leveling module (once in 13 years)

7. The LR2 has a lot of modules that are suppose to shut themselves down but most of these modules control things that I use and I've never noticed anything that didn't work

8. Modules that I have never used in 13 years: Satellite Radio (is the only one that I am aware of)

9. Eliminating the Satellite module may not fix the problem but if it does then I won't miss it at all

10. Volvo uses a similar (Satellite Radio Module) and they had battery draining issues that they fixed by upgrading the module and/or software

For me it just easier to Bypass the Fiber Optic connection and unplug the module.

That's my plan

And if it works I will have no proof other than (my battery lasted for 8 years instead of 4 for the first time in 20 years of ownership)

Who will I show the proof to?????

 

reminds me of the good ol days with token ring. I do not have these issues and my vehicles have been known to sit for months on end without use... but the moment I jump into them they do start and all components operate properly.

A good battery is a must.
On these electronic managed vehicles, Sourcing the cause for a drain would be my priority.
Ensuring solid grounds is a must.

And Thanks for the conversation on MOST. I do find this very interesting.

 

Token ring??? Aieee! Flashback!

 

LR2 owners,

I successfully bypassed my Satellite module

It wasn't difficult at all

Here is the link https://www.freel2.com/forum/post407047.html#407047


Thanks

Paul

 

For a week before the smog check, he could drive the LR2 and leave it on a power supply when not using it.

 

Blair,

I recommend that anyone trying this this approach confirm that the monitors do in fact reset in a week with their driving.

Note: for my S80 with very similar systems (the LR2 is based on the S80, FORD owned Volvo and Land Rover) the reset was very difficult.
My son driving his regular commute did not reset the monitors on the S80, I had to get him to drive deliberately to get it done.
For reference on my Audi a full year of typical driving didn't reset the monitors and to get them to reset I had to do something that I would never do on a typical commute.

The good news: after disconnecting the battery on my LR2 (which sets the monitors to incomplete) and driving for 4 days by the same son that had difficulty with the S80.




Thanks

Paul

PS I still thing that Bypassing the Satellite radio module is the better solution

 

Hi all,
A year or so ago, I purchased a 2010 lr2 that I found had a .25A draw and started a thread about how to go about fixing it. I spent about 11 hours trying to find the cause to no avail but did purchase the 2 fiber loopback piece@p_gill recommended. Unfortunately I lost the energy & couldn't find the time to follow through so I let it sit with the battery disconnected.
Fast forward to last week, someone attempted to steal my wife's Kia Soul by breaking the RR glass and fiddling with the ignition so I decided to use the LR2 to block it until we could get it in. I came upon the idea of a remote cutoff to disconnect the battery so she could also use the LR2 so I purchased and install this:
Since I found the Kia was actually drivable It worked well a few times she had to move the LR2 to drive the Kia and block it again when done until one day the start button would not engage the starter. I search the forum for a solution, reversed my relay mod and finally got it started. I suspect the LR2 is so sensitive to voltages and multiple looser connections is what caused it because the mod showed a reading of ~.187V potential instead of 0V so it might have caused the no start (it never did it before).
I transferred the mod to the Kia and am now searching for a better battery cut-off solution until I can properly find and repair the .25A draw in the LR2.

Does anyone think if I use a separate small 12V battery to power a.better remote cut-off so I get a 0V reading might prevent the no start problem? Or should I leave it as is and settle for having to raise the hood and reconnect the negative cable everytime we need to move the LR2 until I can repair the draw? (BTW after sitting for ~a year the battery read 12.26V before I topped it off and started the mod).