Hello, I'm new to this forum. I always wanted to own a Land Rover so I bought a 2008 Land Rover LR2 at an auction--most were repossessed. On the windshield it stated --"starter missing". I'm not a mechanic but I have turned alot of wrenches in my 62 years from minor to major repairs. Once I loaded it on a trailer I realized more was missing than just the starter. Cats missing, Starter missing, undercarriage shield missing. I ordered most all the necessrary parts and today I was hoping to hear it start/crank. It didn't happen even with new starter. The key fob is ok, I believe. The code came up --- HDC Fault System Not Available. I checked the battery and it is strong and even added a booster to get maxium voltage. So now I am looking all around to see if maybe the previous owner sabotaged something besides the starter, cats, etc before he lost it. I did notice that the fuel rail sensor wiring is missing. I think it goes from the fuel rail to something near the radiator? If anyone has any thoughts, I would appreicate any comments or possible solutions. I haven't checked if fire is getting to the starter yet, I'm not sure the diagram for the electrical system or fuses. How often does a "start button" goes bad? it is really a very nice looking LR2--exterior is almost flaweless and the interior has minor wear so i really would like to get this car running. It has around 147,000 miles on it.

 

There are LR manuals in one of these sub forums, LR/FL2 specific. HDC faults are usually Haldex related, likely a comm error which could even be from a very weak battery. I'd also check out freel2.com, a big freelander2 specific community. There are stock manuals there as well. If the LR2 is missing "parts", you might have a nightmare on your hands as LR "married" a lot of things to the CPU,ECU and BCU modules. Replacing parts alone may not solve some of these issues.

Get yourself a OBDII LR2 specific reader or better yet, JLR SDD and a Chinese knockoff Mongoose cable which are covered in some of the LR2 forum here as well.


It really could be as simple as the replacing, by soldering a new rechargeable battery in the key fob, also detailed on this forum and youtube.

A project is always a good thing!! !

 

Any previous low voltage might have triggered the crash module, that's common and would have to be reset with software. I think aftermarket like Autel AP200 will do that. JLR SDD will for sure.

 

Thanks for your messages. I couldn't find the "LR manuals in one of these sub forums, LR/FL2". Maybe i need to look harder. I havent been able to do much work on the LR. I did find that the Positive cable that run to the alternator was cut so i will fix that maybe tomorrow. I did see the "crash" word that was under the obdomoter. so my question is--can I get an accurate reading from the Autel AP200 or JLR SDD if it will not turn over? THANKS again for your help. I will try to find more manuals.

 

Make sure it's for your year, an fyi, the FL2/LR2 are generally the same but there are tons more engine combos in Europe. I do not believe the Autel can reset crash status codes but I can assure you JLR SDD can.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic10...orkshop+manual

 

thanks for the quick response and for the Link to manuals. I thought my laptop crashed after it fell off the couch. I looked up JLR SDD--but what i found was the end that plugs into the car--but the other end is like a usb end----what does it plug into? Do you know about how much the JLR SDD cost? ballpark figure? thanks mark

 

 

 

The other end of the mongoose cable plugs into a laptop USB with the software on it. I use a virtual much older version but the links to that are now gone I believe. It was on one of the jaguar forums. You can get the most recent software free to download but will need a mongoose cable (or a Chinese knock off). I guess with the most recent software you will need a key or a key generator (check ebay). It's a bit of a learning curve to learn to use it (it's not intuitive) and you will also need some type of volt and amp battery maintainer (13.5 volts and 20+ amps constant) like a CTEK Multi US 25000 or equivalent (for example). You will have to do a lot of research if you are so inclined.

One caution, if you go down this route, you can end up "bricking" your ride, so the battery maintainer is important if you want to fully utilize the software.

 

thanks--sounds like i need to do some research concerning this mission.---thanks for your help